Have you been to the Amalfi Coast (Italy)?

I drove from south of Salerno to Sorrento in June. The approach to Sorrento - a combination of very busy, narrow, twisty roads and fearless scooterists coming at you from every conceivable angle (head-on at 40mph through the gap between you and big trucks going in the opposite direction/overtaking on every kind of blind bend/summit) was challenging. We hired an experienced driver & 7 seater and he drove us to Positano, Amalfi and Ravello. We stopped off for lunch at a lovely place in Scala called Albergo ZiNtonio, which I'd recommend. Then back overland to Sorrento. This route crossed the ridge which overlooks Naples and Vesuvius and had some breathtaking views. It's all touristy, but very pretty and the coastline alone is worth the trip. I definitely wouldn't want to drive it - you'd miss the sights and be sweating about knocking someone off their bike. I took a few snaps which I'll try to post later.
 
Raid, we are heading to Positano in May and our plan so far is to take the train from Rome to Naples to Sorrento.
We might also consider booking a private driver to take us to Positano from Naples but definitely not from Rome as it's around 400 euro.
I though about renting a vehicle in Sorrento but when travelling in Europe i like to use their public transportation plus as space is limited, you'll end up paying for a parking spot.
 
taemo said:
Raid, we are heading to Positano in May and our plan so far is to take the train from Rome to Naples to Sorrento.
We might also consider booking a private driver to take us to Positano from Naples but definitely not from Rome as it's around 400 euro.
I though about renting a vehicle in Sorrento but when travelling in Europe i like to use their public transportation plus as space is limited, you'll end up paying for a parking spot.
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This is quite relevant in almost all major cities, anywhere in the world. It's the main reason why I've never driven in NYC, for example.

Cheers,

R.
 
Dralowid said:
For what it is worth, the secret to safe driving in Italy is never stop...or never give the impression that you might stop...or even be thinking about stopping.

This assures the right of way and respect as an equal from other drivers.
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sevo said:
Sort of. The point is to drive when and where possible, and in doubt negotiate by horn, screams and sign language, rather than to drive blindly and relentlessly if you believe to have the right of way. German drivers (who mostly drive to kill whenever they feel they are legally permitted to) can't cope with such a anarchic communicative system.
Click to expand...

Those strategies can be useful, but not everywhere in Italy: keep in mind that habits are very different between north and south, and also between different regions in the south.
In the north, where I live, people "mostly drive to kill whenever they feel they are legally permitted to" nearly as much as in Germany, and horning/screaming isn't appreciated at all.
From the driving standpoint, it's not very different from northern Europe.
In the south, communicating and showing self-confidence can help, but not everywhere.

The best reccomendation, which is the same thing I do when driving abroad (just back from a riding trip in Vietnam, which is really dangerous), is at the very beginning to try to understand what are the "unofficial rules" which the locals stick to by observing their behavour, then adapt to them as soon as possible in order to be predictable to others and being able to predict them. Which are the keys to avoid accidents.
 
Roger Hicks said:
This is quite relevant in almost all major cities, anywhere in the world. It's the main reason why I've never driven in NYC, for example.

Cheers,

R.
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true, most major cities have fantastic public transit, however the west coast US is lagging behind on that. I find that a car is a must in LA, San Fran and even Seattle.
out of curiosity but do Canadians or Americans need an international driver license in Italy?
I'm planning in driving from Linate to Como next May. I might call my insurance for confirmation tomorrow
 
Roger Hicks said:
There are other stories, but anyone who compares driving in Florida with driving in Italy has either never been to one of those places, or has been incredibly lucky...
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Driving in Florida is great with one glaring exception: Florida State Road 826 round Miami. I got stuck on this about ten years ago without a satnav and it was one of the most unpleasant driving experiences of my life.
 
lawrence said:
Maybe you shouldn't bank on this anymore, Roger...
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Dear Lawrence,

Maybe. Then again, I've had this kind of reaction, mostly from Americans of Italian extraction but also from actual Italian Italians, whenever I've even suggested that Italians are not the best drivers in the world. They get very emotional, very quickly. Much as they do when they're driving...

I've been to lots of countries with bad drivers, but at least they have the grace not to pretend that they're good. In Malta, for example, they're completely honest about it. They say, "The English drive on the left and the French drive on the right. The Maltese drive in the shade."

Perhaps the big problem is that while I've always been able, everywhere else, to do as 13Promet suggests: "at the very beginning to try to understand what are the "unofficial rules" which the locals stick to by observing their behaviour, then adapt to them as soon as possible in order to be predictable to others and being able to predict them." I just can't "read" Italian drivers.

Cheers,

R.
 
taemo said:
Raid, we are heading to Positano in May and our plan so far is to take the train from Rome to Naples to Sorrento.
We might also consider booking a private driver to take us to Positano from Naples but definitely not from Rome as it's around 400 euro.
I though about renting a vehicle in Sorrento but when travelling in Europe i like to use their public transportation plus as space is limited, you'll end up paying for a parking spot.
Click to expand...

Your transfer plan from Rome to Sorrento sounds fine and based on correct assumptions.
The high speed train from Rome to Naples is excellent, quicker and much cheaper than a driver.
Just do not expect great public transport services in place.
Due to the narrow roads and crammed traffic, the most convenient vehicle to be around the Costiera is by motorbike, but it's not safe if you're not used to ride in that environment.
Just get reccomendetion from your hotel depending on where and when you need to move, as different vehicles could fit your bill.
 
Thanks to all for your in-depth input/feedback regarding a travel plan that may or may not actually take place. This must be one of the most "seriously taken" travel chats online these days. Actually, all input here is informative to me since each person posting here has a slightly different perspective on how driving on some streets in Italy can be like. I emailed two friends in "that region" about it, and both replied this morning. One of them has "just returned" from Amalfi, while the second friend may next week be "close by Amalfi". Neither one said anything to suggest that I should not drive there. Of course, both are around Amalfi during a time when tourism is slower than when it will be like during the peak months of each summer.
 
Place it all on "cultural differences" that come as a package deal to us visitors of other nations. It is a take-it-or-leave-it package deal in the end.
 
The Amalfi coast is fabulous and the coast road is spectacular with stunning views around almost every bend. But in summer it is very crowded and you can expect traffic problems which often involve reversing along narrow twisty roads to reach a layby, so less confident drivers might prefer to take the bus.

I'm not going to say where it is, but we stumbled across the most beautiful place to stay just above one of the old towns. A working lemon farm where the lemons are still collected every morning from the steeply tiered terraces by donkey. There are around 6 or 8 guest rooms, each with its own terrace overhung by lemons with views over the rooftops towards the sea. All the food served in the restaurant is grown on the premises, cooked by the proprietor's wife and served by the family. Even some of the wine is home produced. Magnifico.
 
We went in 2010. Flew from Dallas, Tx. to Rome via Atlanta. In Rome we took a service called "Drivers in Rome" Our group was picked up in a nice late model Mercedes van with a professional driver and delivered to the Sorento. All the comments about Italian drivers and narrow roads are spot on.
 
In my opinion (but never been on the "Costiera" personally, still on my wish list):

Pro: beautiful places, excellent food, nice people
Contra: narrow roads, much traffic in summer, crowded places, elasticity required about timetables and similar 🙂

robert
 
Roger Hicks said:
Dear Lawrence,

Maybe. Then again, I've had this kind of reaction, mostly from Americans of Italian extraction but also from actual Italian Italians, whenever I've even suggested that Italians are not the best drivers in the world. They get very emotional, very quickly. Much as they do when they're driving...

Roger, you should avoid gross generalizations and clichés. Your statements about Italians do sound offensive.
Click to expand...
 
I have been four or five times so far in Italy, and I never got upset at some drivers there. It is part of the Italian adventure to me. I make sure that I always have a zero deductible car insurance coverage when driving in Europe. I have never been involved in any car accidents (ever). At the same time, I want to relax and unwind and not feel I am under pressure to avoid getting into a car accident due to the large number of tourists and the very narrow roads.

I think that in the end, we will explore the coastline North of Rome and we skip the coastline South of Rome this time. The weather will also be slightly cooler in Portofino,say, than in Amalfi.
 
If you haven't done Ostia Antica (the ruins) it fascinating. It's largely ignored by tourists. Still surviving/restored enough to make sense of how things worked. Bring a lunch, sit amongst the ruins and have a lovely day. Seafood in town is excellent. Farther north the Etruscan ruins are worth a visit (the museum).

If you can handle the road into Portofino you can handle Amalfi. Slower but tighter.

An unfortunate thread, or at least one participant.
 
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