Have you tried the $39.95 Hong Kong 52mm UV/IR Filter?

[Rob-F]

Before springing the money for the more established brands? For the 15mm CV lens, of course, for use on the M8. I see none going used; probably because few people sell this lens, so they keep their filters. It's on eBay.

 

[ItsReallyDarren]

I bought one of them in 34mm size for my Canon 28/3.5. The price was low and I'd though it was worth a try since I couldn't find one from any other maker.

In short only one word could describe the results, awful. I don't know about the 52mm filter but the 34mm vignetted with horrible green and purple casts that made any picture worse than without the filter. I thought maybe 28mm might be a little wide so I tried it on my Canon 35/2.8 as well only to see the same results.

I tossed the filter.

 

[jaapv]

Umm - I presume the lens was uncoded? In that case it is not the filter's fault. Even the most expensive UV/IR filter wil exhibit stong vignetting and Cyan/Red colour shifts on a wideangle lens. The only solution is to use any IR cut filter in combination with Cornerfix, or even easier the one-click LCC profile correction in Capture One. You will find you get perfect results if you go that way.
Tossing the filter was the wrong action.

 

[parigby]

I'm in the same boat - any thoughts on the Marumi filter ?

 

[Lss]

Cornerfix etc. will of course help, but getting bad vignetting and colour shifts even with a 35mm lens is not normal according to my experience. I am not saying that there cannot be such effects on a 35mm lens, but looking at what I have produced myself I would not refer to those degradations as awful or horrible. They are very minor, perceptually mostly insignificant. As said, Cornerfix will help when the degradation is disturbing.

Obviously, this is probably lens specific. I have no experience with Canon 28/3.5 or 35/2.8 on M8. I have however regularly used uncoded 28mm and 35mm lenses with IR cut filters on that camera. All my 35mm lenses remain uncoded.

 

[efix]

I use exactly the combo you are asking about. It works. I sometimes get residual colour shift despite coding as WATE and setting to 16mm, but only very rarely. I suppose this is nothing to do with the filter, though, but with the Heliar's extreme focal length and the fact that coding a non-Leica lens is always a compromise.

 

[jaapv]

Yes, I find the Capture One correction better. In fact, it is near-perfect for any gradient, vignetting etc. And so easy and quick to fit in your workflow. Just go to the relevant tab, select the profile you have saved there sometime before and click the button.