HC110 ... using it as you would Rodinal.

Recently I have tried Stand development with HC-110. I have done 5 rolls. One roll by itself (So I would only mess up 1 roll if it didn't work.) It looked good, so my next adventure was 4 rolls and all looked nice maybe a little overdeveloped, or rich what ever you would call it.

My method which I borrowed from Rodinal stand:

3 ml per roll (of Syrup)
water to cover the roll(s)
30 minutes stand

So for 1 roll 3ml 300ml of Water
For 4 rolls 12ml into 1000ml of water

68 degrees

Two Inversions at the start
Two inversions at the 10 minute and 20 minute times

Then at 30 minutes washed and fixed as normally would be done.

The assumption is that 3 ml would develop until completion and most negatives would be developed nicely.

I found that to be true. The films I have tried so far is Foma 100 -Neopan Acros 100 -Tmax 100.

Next I am going to mix a batch of Neopan 400 in and see it's results.

I am not home for awhile so I can't post any pictures but will later.

I have found the this method of processing to be very promising.

Leo
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You should show! I find your images extremely good, they have a beautiful symmetry and clarity of space that really allows the viewer to see beyond the often simple subjects you often photograph.

Very much thank you, but there is always room for improvement. I hope someday we can all be satisfied, but in my case I doubt it.
 
First results from my "simple-stand-developing" attempts. For one roll of 135-36 I use 3ml of HC-110 syrup, 500ml water, two ice-cubes (to bring the initial temperature down to 20 degrees C ...), fill the tank, invert slowly 15 times and leave the tank alone for the remaining 59 minutes.

LegacyPro at Box-speed

6138577435_77d353e4fd_z.jpg


APX100 at Box Speed

6142350550_e4b9de6e1c_z.jpg


Fujifilm Neopan Superpresto 1600PR at Boxspeed

6148747916_3b8c1a1b85_z.jpg
 
I absolutely LOVE HC110. I use primarily dilution b - I dilute 17ml (in a tc graduate) to a 500ml with water. If I want to double the time, then I dilute to a liter instead (which is known as dilution h.) I choose dilution h over dilution b when I pull film, so that it has a sufficiently long development time to insure even development.

The reason I love HC110 so much is that 1) it's easy to make a small batch, and 2) it is relatively non toxic and non-corrosive when compared to rodinal. It also delivers less obtrusive grain than rodinal, but that is not always a good thing. If the appearance of the grain is very important to a picture, I develop in D76.

For those who are considering stand development using HC110 - try adding 3mL of syrup per 36 exp roll of 35mm or roll of 120 film to enough water to fill the tank. This much HC110 will completely develop the film in about an hour, and be fully exhausted after that. I learNed this from a former memBer here.

strata.jpg

HC110 dilution H, Delta 3200 at 1600

Lovely!

I have been using HC-110 extensively for my work and I love its ease of use. It works very well (to me) with 400TMY-2 and 400TX pushed to 1600 at dilution B. Well, I have never thought of using other dilutions nor stand development. But after seeing Gabor's results and yours, I will give it a try.

I have a roll of 120 Tri-X @ 1600 to be developed.
 
Keith about using HC110 disregard what is on the flickr image... (I don't always post the truth, just like some women don't always give all the right ingredients when asked for a recipe !!) ;D

HC 110 ratio 1:119

for 30 sec for the 1st minute
for 15 sec at every 3rd minute
total elapsed time 18 minutes then rinse, fix, rinse, hang, sleeve, scan, print


heavy industry neighbourhood by jannx, on Flickr
 
Gabor

I find it interesting that same duration of 1hr and concentration of 3ml of hc110 can be used for different film speeds!


First results from my "simple-stand-developing" attempts. For one roll of 135-36 I use 3ml of HC-110 syrup, 500ml water, two ice-cubes (to bring the initial temperature down to 20 degrees C ...), fill the tank, invert slowly 15 times and leave the tank alone for the remaining 59 minutes.

LegacyPro at Box-speed

6138577435_77d353e4fd_z.jpg


APX100 at Box Speed

6142350550_e4b9de6e1c_z.jpg


Fujifilm Neopan Superpresto 1600PR at Boxspeed

6148747916_3b8c1a1b85_z.jpg
 
I use HC110 dil B, 5 minutes at 20ºC for Ilford HP5+ shot at 400 ISO. I switched from Tri-X to HP5+ because HC-110 seems te get along better with the Ilford film. With Tri-X it tends to get too contrasty.

Results have pretty much the same tonality as the example shown.
 
I tried HC110 stand dev this evening. Did use 3ml/film, 15 turns upside-down, still for 30min and then 3 turns around and still for the remaining 30mins, normal stop and fix and some photo-flo at the finish line.
I had shot a try-out roll of FP4+ (35mm) shot with the Olympus OM4Ti and had not liked this film on earlier times how it looked like, but these negs look nice to me, very even grain and a good contrast, just looks great. Have to try scan some shot with the V500 tomorrow. Next try out will be on LP400, i'll get back to how it looks like then.
 
Back
Top Bottom