HC110 ... your method of usage and your thoughts?

Keith

Keith

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Xtol is the developer I seem to use nine times out of ten but feeling like a change or at least some variation I've picked up a bottle of HC110.

I gather it can be used the way one uses Rodinal but at what dilutions ... what works and does it give grain like Rodinal or is it more along the lines of Xtol? I've read a lot of praise of it here over time so obviously it does the 'business' for many.

I tend to use Neopan 400 as my default 35mm fast film and when I want a little slower emulsion PanF+ or Acros 100 ... how will it go with these films? I've just bought a fair amount of Tri-X 320 in 120 and was considering trying it with that!

Feel free to post some examples ... please! 🙂
 
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I really like HC110. Using the US concentrate, I use it one shot either in Dillution B - when I've shot normally. Or more regularly, I use it 1:100 in a semi-stand development for pushed rolls.

I have used it with Efke 25, PanF 50+ and TriX (both 120 and 35, for the TriX) and been very happy. TriX especially is a classic combination with HC-110. Very clean and you can control your tonality and grain characteristics depending on your processing method.

Efke 25 - Dillution B
3399400615_5bac096331_o.jpg


TriX 400 @ 800 - 1:100 30 minute semi-stand
3097872931_c32d4be6da_o.jpg


TriX 400 @ 1200 - 1:100 45 minute semi-stand
3084860241_b07f88ccbb_o.jpg
 
5 cc of hc110 in 300 cc water at room temperature, ie 20-26º C this summer, for 3 minutes with agitation every 30 seconds. My gallery contains examples.
 
I feel that HC-110 is a rather active and vigorous developer that gives larger grain than D-76, and is better suited for medium format than for 35mm. In fact, I still won't use it on a 6 x 6 negative. If I had a 6 x 9, or when I get around to getting another 6 x 7, I might try it again. But those who like a more pronounced grain use it quite happily with 35mm. It seems to be a de facto standard for photography classes, as it is convenient for students to carry with them to class.

XTOL is OK. I've bought and mixed two of the 5 liter packs. But each time I say "never again" because it is so much trouble to mix and store. And this time I mean it! I use D-76 1:1 most of the time. Microphen for pushing fast films.

Also HC-110 has short developing times, making it easy to accidently overdevelop, producing a grainy, soot and chalk result.
 
When they revised developing times for Tri-X a few years ago, I standardized on using it 1:50 (easier to deal with than Kodak's odd times like 1:31) for 7 and half minutes. It seems to give a smoother look than Rodinal (my current standard) with very nice tonality but less pop and grain.

I use Rodinal for street stuff but if I were to get into more nature type of work, I'd probably go back to HC-110. It's good stuff and gives rich looking results. I like it better than D:76 which looks a little blah to me, not as much pop as Rodinal, not as smooth as HC:110.

This is my very non-scientific, touchy feely assessment. I don't like messing with this stuff too much and when I find something that works I stick with it. I also don't like long development times (over 10 mins). I have tried stand developing with HC:110 and that works too but I'm impatient.
 
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The Kodak site has a pdf for HC-110 with charts for mixing from concentrate or mixing the stock solution. Working directly from the concentrate is easy with a syringe, and saves a LOT of space in the darkroom. Just ran some HP5+ in HC-110b this morning, it's washing now- 31ml of syrup and water to make 1L.

And the Covington site is well worth visiting.

I use HC-110 b most, and run FP4+ and HP5+ in it most. Loved the Forte 100 in HC-110b as well, but I've used it all up.
 
I've been using HC-110 and Tri-X (rated at box speed) pretty regularly and liking the results. From the thread referenced there:
HC-110 dilution E at 20 degrees Celsius for 8 minutes, agitating continuously for the first 30 seconds (inversion then rotation, repeated as needed) then for 10 seconds at each minute mark from 1-7; stop by flushing with tap water; fix in Ilford Rapid Fixer 1:9 (also at 20 degrees) for 5 minutes with agitation each minute; flush with tap water then final rinse in distilled water then leave to dry.

Scan with Nikon 5000ED (with SA-30 adaptor).

Photoshop for adjustments then print.
Click to expand...

...Mike
 
I use HC-110h, I never have a chemically related problem with it. With TmaX films it give full tones if I use 2/3 stop over expose: 400 becomes 250, 100 becomes 64. There is also a creaminess that I like. TriX; I use dilution H and Ansel Adams compensating development. I also use it with SFX, Efke IR820, and Arista EDU ultra 100. It is bullet proof, and I don't find it like someone here said, 'it is bisquick.' Here is SFX, red filter, HC-110h:

3344598838_65a13513db.jpg
 
It is my standard developer for Tri-X and Neopan Presto 400PR. I get best results with 6 Minutes in dil "B" with 20 agitations in the beginning and then one inversion every minute(135 film at 20 degrees). Recently, I mix stock solution (1 part US concentrate + 3 parts water) and use that diluted 1:7. The stock solution survives well in the fridge up to 2 month and I find it more easy to mix then every time fiddling with the syrup.

Grain is less than with Rodinal and tones are well balanced. Rodinal gives more the 60s "reporter-look".
 
Thanks you guys...This thread has come up at a perfect time for me...I'm testing a camera and was looking for this info to develop a roll of Tmax 400pro shot @250asa and using HC-110...
I think I'm going with Dil. B...
 
Keith, I tend to use HC 110 for Tmax-2 400 and Neopan 400 Presto. I just pour 25ml of the raw syrup into the beaker, rinse out a couple of times as it is "sticky and gooey". For a 5 reel Paterson tank it is 25ml HC110/1500 ml of water and 12.5 minutes (Neopan 400) and usually 11.5 with TriX. Gives a nice mid-tone and though not fine-grained, it has a tight grain that is less obtrusive than Rodinal if you are going 11x14 and beyond.
Some of this stuff is on Flickr under Neopan Presto 400 and Tmax-2 400.
 
With HP5 @400: HC 110 syrup 1:100 with water, 1 minute initial agitation, then 10 sec agitation every 3 minutes. Start at 21 minutes for 120 film, and 18 min for 135 film. (Not sure why the diff between 120 and 135, but there is.)

My 1500cc tank does 3 rolls of 120 or 5 rolls of 135 film at a time. That's 15ml of developer and 1500ml water.

I got this regime from Gene.

I'm using TMax 400 right now (bulk loaded) and need to fine tune this. I'm getting under-development or under-exposure with the first batch of TMax I tried.
 
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[FONT=&quot]I use 4ml/250ml or 8/500 to arrive at dilution H. Straight syrup and the required amount of distilled water makes it a simple one shot developer that lasts 'forever'. As long as I’ve operated my camera properly, an image usually appears on the film. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]More grain then xtol, less then rodinal, along with a different tonal scale. I’ll use HC110 mostly with triX and sometimes neopan 400. 100iso films get rodinal exclusively.[/FONT]
 
Keith I've been a Rodinal user since 1968 and HC110 since 1975. I still use both and genrally use HC ilford or HC110 Kodak (same developer) as my default developer. I mix both 1:31 and 1:47 depending on what I'm running and what I'm running it in, tank vs Jobo. I studied with Ansel Adams in 1975 and he was using HC110 at the time and taught me the virtues of if. I find both to be very open in highlights and full shadows with HC110 having a less pronounced grain pattern. I find both have semi compensating effects which makes those high values much easier to print without looking flat. Sharpness is excellent with both and tonality is beautiful. I use HC110 with my Neopan and Acros with excellent results.

I would add that like any developer film combo you need to use it for a while and get to know it to get the best results.
 
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