stet
lurker.
Hi, this is my inaugural post/thread and newbie question. By newbie, I mean total newbie; I know nothing about photography. But after hanging out with photographers for years and often being a student's subject or light-meter carryer, I've finally signed up for a photo I class at my local arts center.
I talked to my dad about it and he said he could send me his old camera, which he hasn't used in ages, but it turned out to be a rangefinder and the class calls for an SLR. Then I talked to the local independent-camera shop guru about my camera options, basically to ask about some cameras I had seen at a flea market. He said I should hold out for the Canon 7s, which dad was sending anyway, because I might be able to use it for the class.
It arrived today and I took it to the shop. He obviously hadn't fiddled with a Canon RF in a while, and the first stumbling block was opening it.
Once open, though, the mechanics seemed to be in order; the shutter had some crinkles, but I read about that being a common non-problem. It works, he told me.
But then the problems that I do/will have.
First, the lens, a Canon 50/1.2, is foggy inside. When he showed me, I thought that that must mean the lens is shot, but he said I could still use it and take the class with it. He said my photos just wouldn't be that sharp. I asked about cleaning it, and he said it can be done, but that that's loaded with problems and he doesn't recommend it. Anyone got suggestions for good lenses for a starter? Ideally, I'd want something I can hold onto and not feel like I should sell in order to upgrade. I think I'd like another 50 and maybe a wide angle.
The more major (and puzzling) problem is the meter. He put in a Wein cell, and the battery check went OK (swinging all the way across). But then when he went to play with it, it never moved. Has anyone heard of this problem, and can it be fixed? I know not having a meter is not a problem for many photographers, but I'll need it, especially for class.
I really appreciate any help. The forum itself was refreshing to find, and I've learned a lot from searching (if mostly learned what I need to learn )
I talked to my dad about it and he said he could send me his old camera, which he hasn't used in ages, but it turned out to be a rangefinder and the class calls for an SLR. Then I talked to the local independent-camera shop guru about my camera options, basically to ask about some cameras I had seen at a flea market. He said I should hold out for the Canon 7s, which dad was sending anyway, because I might be able to use it for the class.
It arrived today and I took it to the shop. He obviously hadn't fiddled with a Canon RF in a while, and the first stumbling block was opening it.
Once open, though, the mechanics seemed to be in order; the shutter had some crinkles, but I read about that being a common non-problem. It works, he told me. But then the problems that I do/will have.
First, the lens, a Canon 50/1.2, is foggy inside. When he showed me, I thought that that must mean the lens is shot, but he said I could still use it and take the class with it. He said my photos just wouldn't be that sharp. I asked about cleaning it, and he said it can be done, but that that's loaded with problems and he doesn't recommend it. Anyone got suggestions for good lenses for a starter? Ideally, I'd want something I can hold onto and not feel like I should sell in order to upgrade. I think I'd like another 50 and maybe a wide angle.
The more major (and puzzling) problem is the meter. He put in a Wein cell, and the battery check went OK (swinging all the way across). But then when he went to play with it, it never moved. Has anyone heard of this problem, and can it be fixed? I know not having a meter is not a problem for many photographers, but I'll need it, especially for class.
I really appreciate any help. The forum itself was refreshing to find, and I've learned a lot from searching (if mostly learned what I need to learn
)
Little Rock huh
Welcome Stet, your camera and lens probably need a good CLA. I doubt that will be opening a can of worms. Infact, I know it will bring a good camera and lens back to it's glory. If I am correct that you are in Arkansas, keh.com has an excellent repair service in Atlanta. Everything I have sent to them from Connecticut has been back on my door step in 7 days. The lens will probably be around $40 to clean and the camera probably around $120. They have an online quoting system you can check out. Essex Camera in NJ is another good repair center, and there are others.
When does your class start?
Another 50mm lens, how about the Canon LTM 50/1.8. Concidered a great lens, only around $150 or so, and contemporary to your camera.
I can't see that a RF camera won't work well for your class. If the teacher is a stickler for an SLR I have a Minolta X-700 with 2 lenses I am looking to sell. Push the RF hard though, all things being equal, that 7s in good repair will beat my x-700 any day.
Wait a minute, wanna trade,.
Good luck.
Welcome Stet, your camera and lens probably need a good CLA. I doubt that will be opening a can of worms. Infact, I know it will bring a good camera and lens back to it's glory. If I am correct that you are in Arkansas, keh.com has an excellent repair service in Atlanta. Everything I have sent to them from Connecticut has been back on my door step in 7 days. The lens will probably be around $40 to clean and the camera probably around $120. They have an online quoting system you can check out. Essex Camera in NJ is another good repair center, and there are others.
When does your class start?
Another 50mm lens, how about the Canon LTM 50/1.8. Concidered a great lens, only around $150 or so, and contemporary to your camera.
I can't see that a RF camera won't work well for your class. If the teacher is a stickler for an SLR I have a Minolta X-700 with 2 lenses I am looking to sell. Push the RF hard though, all things being equal, that 7s in good repair will beat my x-700 any day.
Wait a minute, wanna trade,
.Good luck.
My Canon 50mm F1.2 had fog on the inside surfaces closest to the aperture blades. Getting it cleaned will do it a world of good. The Canon 7s is frst rate, and is well worth getting cleaned. It can be expensive on a student budget. Lenses for a Leica RF camera tend to go for more than a comparable SLR, they are more rare. The WEIN cell will only last a few months (6~12?) before failing completely, whether used or not. The 7s also has an off switch, but it will not stop the WEIN cell from discharging. Make sure the battery contacts are clean; as the battery check worked on yours the contacts must be good. I recently repaired a Canon 7 meter; turns out that the light baffle, a tray that the needle ran across, had become bent and was rubbing the needle. It appeared unresponsive, most people would mistake it for a dead meter cell.
Your setup, even requiring the CLA, is still worth in the $500 ballpark. If you need to trade it for an SLR bear that in mind.
Your setup, even requiring the CLA, is still worth in the $500 ballpark. If you need to trade it for an SLR bear that in mind.
Last edited:
harry01562
Registered semi-lurker
RE: questions on a 7s
RE: questions on a 7s
Hi, and welcome to the site.
Your Dad has excellent taste in cameras, the 7s is basically the last of the Canon rangefinders, and the most featured of them all. It sounds like a CLA (clean, lube and adjust) on the camera, and a cleaning on the lens are both necessary. Neither is a big deal, in the hands of a competent repairman. Essex has a good reputation, AFAIK, and has experience in the rangefinder gear. I don't know how KEH would be on this type of classic camera, but a phone call would probably get an answer. They are honest, and I've bought a lot from them over a period of about 10 years. Only repair experience was the cleaning of a lens under warranty, which was well done.
The meter is not working. This may be due to a dead metering cell, or just a bad connection internally. A CLA would possibly fix that at little additional cost. If not, you can buy any number of very nice used handheld meters, and use one of these to take seperate readings. This is still what is done by many working pros.
Many instructors do require manual SLR cameras for their courses. An example of the popular types is the Pentax K1000. Your 7s can do everything that that one can do, but not focus/compose through the lens. In the end, it's at the option of the instructor.
You can buy a working manual SLR for less than the cost of a new lens for the 7s, but I wouldn't advise disposing of the camera, even if you can't use it in the class. It's one of the finest of its kind, and deserves the CLA I suggested. It's worth several hundred dollars, and sells readily on eBay. As a collector's item, it should hold its value reasonably well, even though film cameras are not hot items now or in the near future. I own 2 of these, one to use and one for display. I wouldn't sell either. They take any lens that fits the Leica screw mount, and there are thousands of those available.
Good luck with your course, and your fine camera. If you need any specific help, drop me an email.
Harry harryb@charter.net
RE: questions on a 7s
Hi, and welcome to the site.
Your Dad has excellent taste in cameras, the 7s is basically the last of the Canon rangefinders, and the most featured of them all. It sounds like a CLA (clean, lube and adjust) on the camera, and a cleaning on the lens are both necessary. Neither is a big deal, in the hands of a competent repairman. Essex has a good reputation, AFAIK, and has experience in the rangefinder gear. I don't know how KEH would be on this type of classic camera, but a phone call would probably get an answer. They are honest, and I've bought a lot from them over a period of about 10 years. Only repair experience was the cleaning of a lens under warranty, which was well done.
The meter is not working. This may be due to a dead metering cell, or just a bad connection internally. A CLA would possibly fix that at little additional cost. If not, you can buy any number of very nice used handheld meters, and use one of these to take seperate readings. This is still what is done by many working pros.
Many instructors do require manual SLR cameras for their courses. An example of the popular types is the Pentax K1000. Your 7s can do everything that that one can do, but not focus/compose through the lens. In the end, it's at the option of the instructor.
You can buy a working manual SLR for less than the cost of a new lens for the 7s, but I wouldn't advise disposing of the camera, even if you can't use it in the class. It's one of the finest of its kind, and deserves the CLA I suggested. It's worth several hundred dollars, and sells readily on eBay. As a collector's item, it should hold its value reasonably well, even though film cameras are not hot items now or in the near future. I own 2 of these, one to use and one for display. I wouldn't sell either. They take any lens that fits the Leica screw mount, and there are thousands of those available.
Good luck with your course, and your fine camera. If you need any specific help, drop me an email.
Harry harryb@charter.net
jlw
Rangefinder camera pedant
Congratulations!
You've been getting good advice on your 7s. As others have said, it's a top-grade, highly sought-after camera. If you can't use it for your class, and if you don't want to keep it for your own use, and if your dad doesn't want it back... well, don't let your local camera store talk you into accepting $50 as a trade-in value for it!
I'm going to discuss the CLA, lens and meter issues at some length:
CLA -- No disrespect intended for those who recommend them, but I'm not that big a believer in routine "CLA" (clean, lubricate, adjust) services, unless the camera really needs them (see below.) This is especially true with classic Canons -- their shutters are an excellent design, but it takes a real Canon expert to do a good job of adjusting one. Once adjusted by an expert, it will be quiet and very accurate for years and years. A regular joe-blow camera repairman might be able to get it going, but it won't perform as well.
So, does your camera need a CLA? I would say first to try all the shutter speeds. The shutter should "buzz" smoothly (no hesitation) at the slowest speeds, and "click" solidly at the higher speeds. Take off the lens, open the camera back, and point the empty lens opening toward an evenly-lit (not fluorescent-lit) white surface, then watch through the shutter as you fire it at each speed. The shutter curtains should snap open and shut briskly, and you should see even lighting across the shutter opening (not darker at one edge or the other.) Try it a few times -- you'll be surprised how well you can "eyeball" this, even at the fast shutter speeds.
If the shutter seems to be working smoothly, the viewfinder surfaces are reasonably clean, and all the camera's controls seem to work, then I would say your camera may NOT need a CLA. At least put a roll of film through it (or get a camera-savvy buddy to do so, if you aren't sure how to use a manual 35mm camera yet) and base your judgment on that.
Meter -- Before you conclude that the meter is bad, there's one weird little thing you might want to try. The 7s meter has two sensitivity ranges; you set them by rotating the knurled collar around the sensor eye on the front. You'll notice this collar has two settings, "H" (high sensitivity, for use in dim light) and "L" (low sensitivity, for use in bright light.)
If the lighting in the camera store was fairly subdued, and if the person helping you had the meter set to "L", the needle would barely budge even if the meter was working properly! A lot of camera-store people don't know about this. So, put in a Wein Cell and try again, making sure you set the sensitivity control appropriately.
If the meter still doesn't work, then it does need repair. The fact that the battery check makes the needle swing proves that the meter movement itself, and all the wiring from the battery compartment through the switch, are OK. About the only remaining piece is the sensor cell. This is a CdS-type cell, and it's unusual for them to just "die", so it's more likely that one of the wiring connections or solder joints has gone bad. A good repair-person could likely fix it, but the top cover will have to come off, so it'll be a relatively expensive repair to do by itself.
If you do decide to have a CLA done, the top cover will have to come off anyway, so you should get an estimate on getting the meter repaired at the same time. The camera is worth more with a working meter, so you'll probably want to have it fixed if the extra cost isn't too high.
Lens -- The easiest way to deal with your foggy lens is to swap it for one that isn't foggy. Someone else recommended the Canon 50mm f/1.8, which is an excellent lens, and the later black-and-chrome version is the correct type for your camera (which will improve its resale value if you decide to sell it, vs. fitting a non-Canon lens.) But you probably won't be able to get an even swap of your foggy lens for a non-foggy one, so you'll be out some money.
A professional cleaning also will probably fix your lens, but that also will put you out some money.
What I'm about to tell you is drastic, and I recommend that you do NOT do it if you're even slightly uncomfortable about it! Ready? Well, open up the aperture of your lens all the way, and examine the glass carefully by shining a small flashlight through it from one end as you look from the other. Look carefully at WHERE the fog seems to be. Does it seem to be on all the surfaces of the glass? If so, stop reading and go back to the suggestions above.
But, if it seems to be ONLY on the surfaces in the middle of the lens, you may be able to do something about it, if you're both dextrous and very, very careful. The most common place for these Canon lenses to fog up is in the center, on either side of the aperture blades (the fog is caused by oil vapor from the focusing mount) and this surface is accessible for cleaning by splitting the two halves of the lens.
Remember, don't try this if you're even slightly unsure about it -- when it's in good shape, this lens is worth a lot of money, so you don't want to ruin it and destroy its value by a botched amateur cleaning! Still game? Well, you need a very, very tiny jeweler's screwdriver -- a #1, or 1/32". This is probably the smallest in those six-screwdriver sets they sell in camera stores. DO NOT try to use any substitute, such as the tip of a knife or any other goofy thing that might occur to you -- it's either a #1 jeweler's screwdriver or nothing! OK, still game?
Now, sit down at a clean, well-lit surface, spread out a soft towel on it, and take your lens in hand. Make sure it's set to maximum aperture, f/1.2 Look at the front part of the lens from the side, around the front trim ring that's just ahead of the movable aperture ring. At what would be about the 7 o'clock position (with respect to the front, with 12 o'clock being the top) you'll see a tiny, tiny black setscrew.
MARK the position of this setscrew relative to the black edge of the lens ring in front of it, using a felt marker or a little piece of tape. You'll need to be able to find this exact position later. Now, CAREFULLY fit your #1 screwdriver into this tiny screw, and loosen it. If it won't turn, STOP! You don't want to gouge up the screwhead, so if it's stuck, give up and leave the job to a professional. If it will loosen, back it out so it sticks up just a bit. (Don't take it all the way out; it's not necessary, and this way you don't risk losing it. It is REALLY small!)
The screw you have just loosened retains the front lens assembly. Once the screw is loose, you can grab the very front ring of the lens by circling your thumb and forefinger around it (this distributes the force) and unscrew it counterclockwise, just like a jar lid. If it seems to drag, loosen the tiny screw a bit more to make sure it's not scraping as you turn the ring. BE CAREFUL not to cross up the threads, drop the lens, or do anything else goofy! Unscrew the front assembly until it comes all the way out. Set it down carefully on the soft cloth.
Now you can see the two interior surfaces of the lens: one on the back of the group you just removed, and the other down in the "cup" it unscrewed from. If you're lucky, the fogging will be confined to these two surfaces. You really, really, REALLY don't want to scratch them, so here's how to clean them: Get the oldest, softest, most-often-laundered cotton handkerchief you own. Make sure it's absolutely clean and really, really soft. Now, breathe on one of the inner lens surfaces to steam it with your breath, and then gently wipe off the steam with the handkerchief.
If you're lucky, the fog will come off with it. If not, leave it alone -- you don't want to risk scratching the glass! After you've cleaned one surface, breathe on and clean the other, using a different part of the handkerchief. When you're wiping the surface that's down in the "cup," don't press hard around the edges -- you don't want to disturb the aperture blades, which are very delicate.
If the lens is now clean and clear, great! If not, there's nothing more you can do -- don't be tempted to try to take it apart further! Either way, it's now time to reassemble it.
Set the front group you unscrewed earlier gently into the "cup" from which you unscrewed it. Try to get it sitting as squarely as possible so you don't damage the screw threads, which are very fine. Turn it gently until the threads catch, and screw it down. If it resists, don't force it -- back it out and try again.
Tighten it down until the mark you made JUST lines up with the little screw -- no more, no less. Now tighten the little screw until it just bottoms -- be gentle, don't force it.
If everything went right, you now have a good, clear lens that's worth a lot more than it was 10 minutes ago. But again, the penalty for screwing up is severe -- you could ruin a lens that's worth a lot of money -- so don't try this unless you're sure you're up to it, and don't blame me if you screw up!!!
You've been getting good advice on your 7s. As others have said, it's a top-grade, highly sought-after camera. If you can't use it for your class, and if you don't want to keep it for your own use, and if your dad doesn't want it back... well, don't let your local camera store talk you into accepting $50 as a trade-in value for it!
I'm going to discuss the CLA, lens and meter issues at some length:
CLA -- No disrespect intended for those who recommend them, but I'm not that big a believer in routine "CLA" (clean, lubricate, adjust) services, unless the camera really needs them (see below.) This is especially true with classic Canons -- their shutters are an excellent design, but it takes a real Canon expert to do a good job of adjusting one. Once adjusted by an expert, it will be quiet and very accurate for years and years. A regular joe-blow camera repairman might be able to get it going, but it won't perform as well.
So, does your camera need a CLA? I would say first to try all the shutter speeds. The shutter should "buzz" smoothly (no hesitation) at the slowest speeds, and "click" solidly at the higher speeds. Take off the lens, open the camera back, and point the empty lens opening toward an evenly-lit (not fluorescent-lit) white surface, then watch through the shutter as you fire it at each speed. The shutter curtains should snap open and shut briskly, and you should see even lighting across the shutter opening (not darker at one edge or the other.) Try it a few times -- you'll be surprised how well you can "eyeball" this, even at the fast shutter speeds.
If the shutter seems to be working smoothly, the viewfinder surfaces are reasonably clean, and all the camera's controls seem to work, then I would say your camera may NOT need a CLA. At least put a roll of film through it (or get a camera-savvy buddy to do so, if you aren't sure how to use a manual 35mm camera yet) and base your judgment on that.
Meter -- Before you conclude that the meter is bad, there's one weird little thing you might want to try. The 7s meter has two sensitivity ranges; you set them by rotating the knurled collar around the sensor eye on the front. You'll notice this collar has two settings, "H" (high sensitivity, for use in dim light) and "L" (low sensitivity, for use in bright light.)
If the lighting in the camera store was fairly subdued, and if the person helping you had the meter set to "L", the needle would barely budge even if the meter was working properly! A lot of camera-store people don't know about this. So, put in a Wein Cell and try again, making sure you set the sensitivity control appropriately.
If the meter still doesn't work, then it does need repair. The fact that the battery check makes the needle swing proves that the meter movement itself, and all the wiring from the battery compartment through the switch, are OK. About the only remaining piece is the sensor cell. This is a CdS-type cell, and it's unusual for them to just "die", so it's more likely that one of the wiring connections or solder joints has gone bad. A good repair-person could likely fix it, but the top cover will have to come off, so it'll be a relatively expensive repair to do by itself.
If you do decide to have a CLA done, the top cover will have to come off anyway, so you should get an estimate on getting the meter repaired at the same time. The camera is worth more with a working meter, so you'll probably want to have it fixed if the extra cost isn't too high.
Lens -- The easiest way to deal with your foggy lens is to swap it for one that isn't foggy. Someone else recommended the Canon 50mm f/1.8, which is an excellent lens, and the later black-and-chrome version is the correct type for your camera (which will improve its resale value if you decide to sell it, vs. fitting a non-Canon lens.) But you probably won't be able to get an even swap of your foggy lens for a non-foggy one, so you'll be out some money.
A professional cleaning also will probably fix your lens, but that also will put you out some money.
What I'm about to tell you is drastic, and I recommend that you do NOT do it if you're even slightly uncomfortable about it! Ready? Well, open up the aperture of your lens all the way, and examine the glass carefully by shining a small flashlight through it from one end as you look from the other. Look carefully at WHERE the fog seems to be. Does it seem to be on all the surfaces of the glass? If so, stop reading and go back to the suggestions above.
But, if it seems to be ONLY on the surfaces in the middle of the lens, you may be able to do something about it, if you're both dextrous and very, very careful. The most common place for these Canon lenses to fog up is in the center, on either side of the aperture blades (the fog is caused by oil vapor from the focusing mount) and this surface is accessible for cleaning by splitting the two halves of the lens.
Remember, don't try this if you're even slightly unsure about it -- when it's in good shape, this lens is worth a lot of money, so you don't want to ruin it and destroy its value by a botched amateur cleaning! Still game? Well, you need a very, very tiny jeweler's screwdriver -- a #1, or 1/32". This is probably the smallest in those six-screwdriver sets they sell in camera stores. DO NOT try to use any substitute, such as the tip of a knife or any other goofy thing that might occur to you -- it's either a #1 jeweler's screwdriver or nothing! OK, still game?
Now, sit down at a clean, well-lit surface, spread out a soft towel on it, and take your lens in hand. Make sure it's set to maximum aperture, f/1.2 Look at the front part of the lens from the side, around the front trim ring that's just ahead of the movable aperture ring. At what would be about the 7 o'clock position (with respect to the front, with 12 o'clock being the top) you'll see a tiny, tiny black setscrew.
MARK the position of this setscrew relative to the black edge of the lens ring in front of it, using a felt marker or a little piece of tape. You'll need to be able to find this exact position later. Now, CAREFULLY fit your #1 screwdriver into this tiny screw, and loosen it. If it won't turn, STOP! You don't want to gouge up the screwhead, so if it's stuck, give up and leave the job to a professional. If it will loosen, back it out so it sticks up just a bit. (Don't take it all the way out; it's not necessary, and this way you don't risk losing it. It is REALLY small!)
The screw you have just loosened retains the front lens assembly. Once the screw is loose, you can grab the very front ring of the lens by circling your thumb and forefinger around it (this distributes the force) and unscrew it counterclockwise, just like a jar lid. If it seems to drag, loosen the tiny screw a bit more to make sure it's not scraping as you turn the ring. BE CAREFUL not to cross up the threads, drop the lens, or do anything else goofy! Unscrew the front assembly until it comes all the way out. Set it down carefully on the soft cloth.
Now you can see the two interior surfaces of the lens: one on the back of the group you just removed, and the other down in the "cup" it unscrewed from. If you're lucky, the fogging will be confined to these two surfaces. You really, really, REALLY don't want to scratch them, so here's how to clean them: Get the oldest, softest, most-often-laundered cotton handkerchief you own. Make sure it's absolutely clean and really, really soft. Now, breathe on one of the inner lens surfaces to steam it with your breath, and then gently wipe off the steam with the handkerchief.
If you're lucky, the fog will come off with it. If not, leave it alone -- you don't want to risk scratching the glass! After you've cleaned one surface, breathe on and clean the other, using a different part of the handkerchief. When you're wiping the surface that's down in the "cup," don't press hard around the edges -- you don't want to disturb the aperture blades, which are very delicate.
If the lens is now clean and clear, great! If not, there's nothing more you can do -- don't be tempted to try to take it apart further! Either way, it's now time to reassemble it.
Set the front group you unscrewed earlier gently into the "cup" from which you unscrewed it. Try to get it sitting as squarely as possible so you don't damage the screw threads, which are very fine. Turn it gently until the threads catch, and screw it down. If it resists, don't force it -- back it out and try again.
Tighten it down until the mark you made JUST lines up with the little screw -- no more, no less. Now tighten the little screw until it just bottoms -- be gentle, don't force it.
If everything went right, you now have a good, clear lens that's worth a lot more than it was 10 minutes ago. But again, the penalty for screwing up is severe -- you could ruin a lens that's worth a lot of money -- so don't try this unless you're sure you're up to it, and don't blame me if you screw up!!!
Last edited:
One more question to ask is "How Foggy" inside. Do you have to shine a light through it to see the fog, or does it look like "pea-soup" in there. Light fog that can only be seen shining a light through will not degrade the image much. If it is readily apparent when just looking into the lens under normal light, it is an issue.
My Canon 50mm F1.2, has some discoloration in rear group:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showgallery.php/cat/759
And
Hazy Leica 5cm f1.5 Summarit:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=157
After Professional Cleaning, $80:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=158
Let us know what you want to do.
My Canon 50mm F1.2, has some discoloration in rear group:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showgallery.php/cat/759
And
Hazy Leica 5cm f1.5 Summarit:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=157
After Professional Cleaning, $80:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=158
Let us know what you want to do.
chendayuan
Established
Stet
check your private Message
check your private Message
saltyfli
Member
Canon 7S
Canon 7S
If you would like to trade, I can offer you a complete set of gear. List as follows: A} Mint Canon AE1 Program camera, recently had a CLA , foam seals replaced, good for another 20 years, B} Canon Moter drive for AE1 that shoots as high as 5 frames a second , like new, C} a Canon FD 28 mm 2.8 wide angle lense,in great condition D} a Canon FD 50 mm 1.8 lens in great condition E} A Canon FD 135mm F3.5 mint lense F} a Canon 70 to 210 mm F4 zoom, like new, G} a Canon 155a dedicated flash, like new, H} a High Quality Komura 2X extender, which will double all focal lenghts of lense used with it, I} a Cambron 500mm F8 preset lens in a case with hood, G} and last but not least a MINT Canon Canonet QL17 G3 with 6month warranty ,orginal cap, new seals and recently had a CLA and meter calibrated for the new 1.5 readly available batteries, ask any one on this forum how great this camera is. With this outfit you could cover all the bases that you come to. As you can see what you have is worth more than a 100.00 dollar trade in at any camera store. I have had a Canon 7s CLA at Camera Repair Service in Pittsburgh and can recomend them highly. I have had a Canon 50mm 1.2 lens cleaned with the haze removed at Focal Point , they are specialists with these older lense. You can email me at saltyfli@aol.com
Canon 7S
If you would like to trade, I can offer you a complete set of gear. List as follows: A} Mint Canon AE1 Program camera, recently had a CLA , foam seals replaced, good for another 20 years, B} Canon Moter drive for AE1 that shoots as high as 5 frames a second , like new, C} a Canon FD 28 mm 2.8 wide angle lense,in great condition D} a Canon FD 50 mm 1.8 lens in great condition E} A Canon FD 135mm F3.5 mint lense F} a Canon 70 to 210 mm F4 zoom, like new, G} a Canon 155a dedicated flash, like new, H} a High Quality Komura 2X extender, which will double all focal lenghts of lense used with it, I} a Cambron 500mm F8 preset lens in a case with hood, G} and last but not least a MINT Canon Canonet QL17 G3 with 6month warranty ,orginal cap, new seals and recently had a CLA and meter calibrated for the new 1.5 readly available batteries, ask any one on this forum how great this camera is. With this outfit you could cover all the bases that you come to. As you can see what you have is worth more than a 100.00 dollar trade in at any camera store. I have had a Canon 7s CLA at Camera Repair Service in Pittsburgh and can recomend them highly. I have had a Canon 50mm 1.2 lens cleaned with the haze removed at Focal Point , they are specialists with these older lense. You can email me at saltyfli@aol.com
W
wlewisiii
Guest
Stet, you've already been given very good advice above in this thread. I just want to chime in and encourage you to keep this camera and use it. It is an excellent camera in its own right and this particular one will have much more meaning for you than a generic SLR would as it has come down to you from within your family.
Get a CLA of both camera and lens and they will serve you until it's time for your son to learn photography. If your instructor really does have an issue with using a rangefinder for your class (and I'd be highly suspicious of the instructor if that were the case anyway) borrow a cheap SLR, say a Pentax K1000 for example, for the duration and carry it to class - and then shoot your assignments with the 7s anyway. If the instructor is actually able to tell the difference, then I'll bet it won't matter.
In the end, this game is all about playing and learning. If you aren't having fun, it isn't worth the time and money. So, enjoy and post some pictures from the family 7s as soon as you can.
William
Get a CLA of both camera and lens and they will serve you until it's time for your son to learn photography. If your instructor really does have an issue with using a rangefinder for your class (and I'd be highly suspicious of the instructor if that were the case anyway) borrow a cheap SLR, say a Pentax K1000 for example, for the duration and carry it to class - and then shoot your assignments with the 7s anyway. If the instructor is actually able to tell the difference, then I'll bet it won't matter.
In the end, this game is all about playing and learning. If you aren't having fun, it isn't worth the time and money. So, enjoy and post some pictures from the family 7s as soon as you can.
William
stet
lurker.
wow ... thank you all for the great advice (and offers!). It's funny; when I discovered what this camera is worth, my dad and I talked about selling it to get a new SLR. But the more I read about it, and especially the more I hold it and think about how my dad shot photos with it ~40 years ago, the more inclined I am to keep it. At the very least, I want to do what I can to try to bring it back to snuff, so I want to send it off for a cleaning/repair. The only conflict really is that the class starts soon.
I'm always pressed for time during East Coast business hours, but I got in a call to Essex today and got what seems to be a good quote -- $150 for what I guess is the CLA, and which will include cleaning the lens (if possible) and fixing the meter. That sounded good, and I didn't actually get a chance to call KEH. And anyway, I'm partial to Jersey, so feedback being equal, I'll support my original home team. (I was born there, although I still claim Philly as home. How very Jerseyan, right? And why am I in Arkansas? A lady, of course.)
So then I headed off to the camera shop again and retested the meter. We popped in a different cell and the the same thing happened, despite whether it was set on low or high. So at least that confirms one reason to send in the body. I also picked up a roll of film, too, to test the lens. Hopefully it's OK enough for class; it kinda is foggy on one side. In the shop today, the guy had me look at a newspaper with the lens as a magnifying glass, and i saw how it was hazy. (I was wrong about yesterday; he thinks it might be too hazy for class)
If it's too messed up? I dunno. Essex Camera said it would be a three-week turnaround time. The class, which my girlfriend already registered me for, begins the 24th. If it is still usable, I can send the whole thing off to Essex after the class, but I have a feeling I might end up buying an SLR, even though I was just keen on using theis RF and not really starting a camera collection quite yet Maybe a used K1000, or this Phoenix that is coming into the shop. Or maybe another 50mm lens. I can't decide whether I'd rather have a whole camera setup or one lens! I guess I have to see what's available, anyway.
I'm always pressed for time during East Coast business hours, but I got in a call to Essex today and got what seems to be a good quote -- $150 for what I guess is the CLA, and which will include cleaning the lens (if possible) and fixing the meter. That sounded good, and I didn't actually get a chance to call KEH. And anyway, I'm partial to Jersey, so feedback being equal, I'll support my original home team. (I was born there, although I still claim Philly as home. How very Jerseyan, right? And why am I in Arkansas? A lady, of course.)
So then I headed off to the camera shop again and retested the meter. We popped in a different cell and the the same thing happened, despite whether it was set on low or high. So at least that confirms one reason to send in the body. I also picked up a roll of film, too, to test the lens. Hopefully it's OK enough for class; it kinda is foggy on one side. In the shop today, the guy had me look at a newspaper with the lens as a magnifying glass, and i saw how it was hazy. (I was wrong about yesterday; he thinks it might be too hazy for class)
If it's too messed up? I dunno. Essex Camera said it would be a three-week turnaround time. The class, which my girlfriend already registered me for, begins the 24th. If it is still usable, I can send the whole thing off to Essex after the class, but I have a feeling I might end up buying an SLR, even though I was just keen on using theis RF and not really starting a camera collection quite yet
Maybe a used K1000, or this Phoenix that is coming into the shop. Or maybe another 50mm lens. I can't decide whether I'd rather have a whole camera setup or one lens! I guess I have to see what's available, anyway.
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You're too short on time, it seems, to get the Canon CLA done before your class begins. But it could well be back from CLA before the class is over! Hang in there, and perhaps borrow a manual SLR for the first part of the class. Or if you're going to buy an SLR, it might as well be a carefully thought-out purchase, since a decent SLR can be handy to have around! I favor Pentax, myself, and I think an MX would be outstanding; more compact than the K1000. The K1000 is the low end model of the full size first bayonet mount series. The top model is the K2, and in-between are the KM and KX. These latter two often sell for lower prices because the price-leader K1000 is so well-known, but are preferable upscale models nonetheless. However it works out, have fun with your class!
Essex did a great job on my jammed Canon 7 and had it back to me within two weeks. Give them a sob story and enclose the payment with the camera and lens when you send it in. Unless the camera needs some part that is on backorder, they have never taken longer than 16 days back to my door.
I am glad you decided to keep the camera and have it cleaned. As you can see, many members here would jump at the chance to pick up a 7s, me included.
I am glad you decided to keep the camera and have it cleaned. As you can see, many members here would jump at the chance to pick up a 7s, me included.
W
wlewisiii
Guest
Brian Sweeney said:
Preach it, brother! The Canon's are the only dark side type of camera that seriously temp me. A chance to get a 7s would put my budget in a world of hurt...
I, too, am glad you're keeping it and gettigng it cleaned. Just please use it. It is a fine tool and as such deserves to be used.
Enjoy!
William
Hey Stet, there are two nice SLRs available here if you are interested.
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=57064#post57064
Let me know if you would like to know more about the Minolta.
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=57064#post57064
Let me know if you would like to know more about the Minolta.
stet
lurker.
well, after talking to my better half, we're going to share her SLR for the first few weeks of class, and I'm going to pack my Canon off to Jersey tomorrow. We just have to be careful to time our usage so that we don't shoot our homework on each other's rolls.
thanks again, everyone, for all the advice (and tips on the SLRs), as well as for encouraging me to keep it. I'm excited about what I've stuimbled on; I just hope my hands/eyes can make something nice out of it. Anyway, I'll keep you posted on what happens. In the meantime, I guess I'll be lurking around here trying to learn a thing or two.
thanks again, everyone, for all the advice (and tips on the SLRs), as well as for encouraging me to keep it. I'm excited about what I've stuimbled on; I just hope my hands/eyes can make something nice out of it. Anyway, I'll keep you posted on what happens. In the meantime, I guess I'll be lurking around here trying to learn a thing or two.
W
wlewisiii
Guest
Good... good... And yes, hang out here. When we're not careful, we actually can teach a thing or two...
William
William
taffer
void
Well, I don't have much more to say seeing the great advices above but just two things:
1) Your dad has excellent taste for cameras.
2) Welcome !
1) Your dad has excellent taste for cameras.
2) Welcome !
stet
lurker.
I don't feel good.
I don't feel good.
Actually, I'm alternately shaking with worry and anger. Which is always worse when you don't know who to fear or blame.
On Friday, I sent my Canon 7s, which was handed down by my father, and a $158 postal money order to Essex Camera, priority mail, insured for $500. I called yesterday and they hadn't received it; same thing again today. I know these things can get delayed, and I'm usually very patient with shipping, but this is the most valuable parcel I've ever sent, and I was anxious to know its status. The post office is across the street and I have a good rapport with the folks over there, so I went down to see if they could check it, even if it is only a day or so late.
They told me it was delivered. On Monday.
The lady gave me a printout showing that it was sent 3/18 at 3:30 p.m., and delivered 3/21 at 10:20 p.m. I just spoke to a guy at Essex, the same guy who's answered every time I call, and told him what I found; he asked me more questions this time about what was in the box, where it was sent from. He checked again and said he didn't find it. He also said that the mail gets there at around noon. In my mind, I'm thinking back to make sure I wrote the correct address; I'm certain I did, but still, anything can happen, anywhere.
He suggested I wait it out a couple days more, call back tomorrow. I have no idea what this would do; the post office is saying that it's already done with its part. But I'm not really thinking anymore. At this point, I'm in shock; I never asked for his name, or anything. I don't even know what to ask for beyond that.
I think I'm going to head back to the post office to see if the MO was cashed. Yeah, a check would've been better, but circumstances made it this way. :bang:
This is not good.
EDIT:
*whew*
Right after I posted this, I called Essex Camera again to trade information. I never gave them my number in case they did find it. I talked to the same guy again, Ian. I should note that he was trying in earnest to be soothing to me on our last call, and he was again on this call. Then in about five minutes, as I was about to go back to the post office to check on the MO, Ian calls back to say they've found the box and money order, and they were responsible for misplacing it, and he apologized. And he was really, really nice about it. And actually, while I've been typing this edit, he called back again, to let me know the status of the camera.
Which is, actually, not that great news. The body should be fine; he noted that the curtain was wrinkled but no light gets through, so everything with that should be good. They'll fix the meter, clean it up, etc. The lens, however, is not in great shape. Fungus and moisture mixed around inside, and he said there was slight rust on the diaphragm (?). He said they'll try to clean it up as best as they can, of course, but warned that it may only be restored 70-80 percent. i asked if he thought it might not be good for class, and he said I should wait and take a test roll.
So, erring on the side of realistic ... anyone selling a 50mm lens (and others)?
I don't feel good.
Actually, I'm alternately shaking with worry and anger. Which is always worse when you don't know who to fear or blame.
On Friday, I sent my Canon 7s, which was handed down by my father, and a $158 postal money order to Essex Camera, priority mail, insured for $500. I called yesterday and they hadn't received it; same thing again today. I know these things can get delayed, and I'm usually very patient with shipping, but this is the most valuable parcel I've ever sent, and I was anxious to know its status. The post office is across the street and I have a good rapport with the folks over there, so I went down to see if they could check it, even if it is only a day or so late.
They told me it was delivered. On Monday.
The lady gave me a printout showing that it was sent 3/18 at 3:30 p.m., and delivered 3/21 at 10:20 p.m. I just spoke to a guy at Essex, the same guy who's answered every time I call, and told him what I found; he asked me more questions this time about what was in the box, where it was sent from. He checked again and said he didn't find it. He also said that the mail gets there at around noon. In my mind, I'm thinking back to make sure I wrote the correct address; I'm certain I did, but still, anything can happen, anywhere.
He suggested I wait it out a couple days more, call back tomorrow. I have no idea what this would do; the post office is saying that it's already done with its part. But I'm not really thinking anymore. At this point, I'm in shock; I never asked for his name, or anything. I don't even know what to ask for beyond that.
I think I'm going to head back to the post office to see if the MO was cashed. Yeah, a check would've been better, but circumstances made it this way. :bang:
This is not good.
EDIT:
*whew*
Right after I posted this, I called Essex Camera again to trade information. I never gave them my number in case they did find it. I talked to the same guy again, Ian. I should note that he was trying in earnest to be soothing to me on our last call, and he was again on this call. Then in about five minutes, as I was about to go back to the post office to check on the MO, Ian calls back to say they've found the box and money order, and they were responsible for misplacing it, and he apologized. And he was really, really nice about it. And actually, while I've been typing this edit, he called back again, to let me know the status of the camera.
Which is, actually, not that great news. The body should be fine; he noted that the curtain was wrinkled but no light gets through, so everything with that should be good. They'll fix the meter, clean it up, etc. The lens, however, is not in great shape. Fungus and moisture mixed around inside, and he said there was slight rust on the diaphragm (?). He said they'll try to clean it up as best as they can, of course, but warned that it may only be restored 70-80 percent. i asked if he thought it might not be good for class, and he said I should wait and take a test roll.
So, erring on the side of realistic ... anyone selling a 50mm lens (and others)?
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stet
lurker.
so now that a few hours have passed, I'd like to apologize for my above hysteria. I just looked over that post again, and I hope it isn't misread. Based on feedback here and elsewhere, I have faith that my camera is in good hands with Essex Camera. What mainly was killing me was that I didn't know where my package was. If Essex didn't have it, and the post office said they delivered it, then who had it.
I place great faith in the mail, mainly because I use it a lot, but last year I got robbed horribly initially through the mail. I lived in a pretty sketchy loft warehouse, where the mail wasn't so secure. My bank said my ATM/check card *had* to be mailed to my street address. Well, someone took it. My bank is also one of those banks that assigns PINs, and they send it out a couple days after mailing the card, in another unmarked envelope with a different postmark. Well, someone took that too.
I found this out when my girlfriend came to visit me for a long weekend. I didn't have an ATM card, so I went to the bank to make a withdrawal. When I got my receipt my jaw dropped as saw my account was nearly depleted $800. That wasn't all, either; there were withdrawals still working their way through the system; I got taken for a grand.
To Sovereign Bank's credit, they were fantastic about fixing everything. I am now very loyal to them becuase of how helpful the bank managers were. Anyway, although I'm pretty patient with letting the mail do its thing, I worry about what could happen. One thing the police officer taking my statement reminded me was that it might not have been someone in my building or a lurker who dashed in and stole the mail; it could be someone at the post office, or at the originating post office. Who knows. And considering what this camera was worth in value and sentiment, not knowing where it was was awful.
Anyway, funky lens or not, I'm SO relieved that my camera has been found.
I place great faith in the mail, mainly because I use it a lot, but last year I got robbed horribly initially through the mail. I lived in a pretty sketchy loft warehouse, where the mail wasn't so secure. My bank said my ATM/check card *had* to be mailed to my street address. Well, someone took it. My bank is also one of those banks that assigns PINs, and they send it out a couple days after mailing the card, in another unmarked envelope with a different postmark. Well, someone took that too.
I found this out when my girlfriend came to visit me for a long weekend. I didn't have an ATM card, so I went to the bank to make a withdrawal. When I got my receipt my jaw dropped as saw my account was nearly depleted $800. That wasn't all, either; there were withdrawals still working their way through the system; I got taken for a grand.
To Sovereign Bank's credit, they were fantastic about fixing everything. I am now very loyal to them becuase of how helpful the bank managers were. Anyway, although I'm pretty patient with letting the mail do its thing, I worry about what could happen. One thing the police officer taking my statement reminded me was that it might not have been someone in my building or a lurker who dashed in and stole the mail; it could be someone at the post office, or at the originating post office. Who knows. And considering what this camera was worth in value and sentiment, not knowing where it was was awful.
Anyway, funky lens or not, I'm SO relieved that my camera has been found.
back alley
IMAGES
i hear ya!
and i kid about the canadian post office and canada customs but i have never had anything lost.
however, it can be a frustrating and scarey experience at times.
sending hundres of dollars and/or waiting for a camera, a lens...nerve wracking at times.
i'm glad they found your stuff and it sounds like the camera will be just fine & fit and ready to shoot.
talk nice to brian sweeney and he just might find a great 50 for you!
if not, keep an eye on ebay and the classifieds here and at photo.net.
you can always try a cheaper russian lens like the jupiter 8 on the canon till you find something else.
joe
and i kid about the canadian post office and canada customs but i have never had anything lost.
however, it can be a frustrating and scarey experience at times.
sending hundres of dollars and/or waiting for a camera, a lens...nerve wracking at times.
i'm glad they found your stuff and it sounds like the camera will be just fine & fit and ready to shoot.
talk nice to brian sweeney and he just might find a great 50 for you!
if not, keep an eye on ebay and the classifieds here and at photo.net.
you can always try a cheaper russian lens like the jupiter 8 on the canon till you find something else.
joe