hello, and two questions about the 7s

[Doug]

Yeah, the negs are pretty dark, and the contact sheet is light, similar to the effects on this page (esp. the elephant and the bird statue)

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/service/tib/tib5201.shtml

I would guess (and hope) that that's what happened. There is no fog on the film, though, and the site doesn't address what happens if you pass an unexposed roll through the x-ray, then shoot it.

That's what the elephant and bird statue (and several other images) do show, or might show. Whether the X-Ray irradiation comes before or after the picture is captured on film doesn't matter; same effect. Excepting a small possible effect from pre-fogging that may not apply here, a technique used by astronomers to increase the effective film speed... A very brief and weak exposure can have that effect.

When you say there's no fog on the film, do you mean outside of the picture areas? Fogging would show up as additional film density between frames and around the sprocket holes. Is there any pattern or waves visible, such as the Kodak site illustrated?

 

[stet]

When you say there's no fog on the film, do you mean outside of the picture areas? Fogging would show up as additional film density between frames and around the sprocket holes. Is there any pattern or waves visible, such as the Kodak site illustrated?

no, the effect on the images are similar (on the contact sheet), but the negatives themselves have no streaks/diagonals/waves across them. Also, it was 400 speed film, which tht site says is more prone to damage.

And how creepy is that first mannequin?

 

[Doug]

That mannikin is definitely odd...

Seems to me now a good next move for you would be to get a fresh roll of film, untouched by the stresses of time or travel, and see what the camera can do with it.

 

[Sonnar Brian]

I just checked my unloaded Canon 7. I have yet to use the shutter lock, I usually leave it uncocked until ready to make an exposure. There is a "zone" from R to the red dot that the shutter release will lock and the film advance will "keep on going". On mine, the red dot locks the shutter and you cannot keep advancing it. Turn yours slightly past the red dot and toward "A". Try to find a "zone" where the shutter release is locked and the film advance stops properly. If it "exist" and is way off, you can loosen the three set screws in the "AR" collar and set it so that the indicator lines up with the red dot. Or you can just remember "the Zones". I have done this on Joe's camera and my latest Canon 7. If you do reset it, just back the very scall set screws out a little and then adjust the collar.

Let us know if you dins the zone that locks the release and keeps from wasting exposures. It was not very wide on my Canon 7.

 

[stet]

There is a "zone" from R to the red dot that the shutter release will lock and the film advance will "keep on going". On mine, the red dot locks the shutter and you cannot keep advancing it. [...]

I have yet to use the shutter lock, I usually leave it uncocked until ready to make an exposure.

now that I'm between rolls, I just checked the A, lock and R ring, with the back open and closed. I don't seem to have a zone, but It's definitely quirky. In case anyone runs into the same thing, here's what I've found...

If I have it on A, I can take a shot and advance the film, and the spool turns and the shutter curtain returns. I can do this in one stroke or several short ones, and the little rotating eye thing rotates accordingly. Then I can't advance it anymore until the shutter fires.

If I take a shot, advance the film and then turn it on shutter lock (or anywhere not on A), I can advance the film and the shutter curtain returns, then I can still advance the film over and over again.

If I take a shot, then turn it on shutter lock (or anywhere not on A) before advancing, I can then still repeatedly advance the lever and the spool turn, but the shutter curtain doesn't return. When I switch it back onto A to take a shot, I first have to advance the film again to get the curtain back.

I'm guessing that because I don't have that "zone," I can't take advantage of the adjustment advice. Right now I'm trying to leave the camera uncocked. This seems like the only sure-fire (haw haw!) way to stop wasting film. But if the workaround doesn't work out, I still have five months left on my repair warranty -- but the thought of sending it back out, waiting, not having it ... man. I guess I should take care of it, though. After class ends.

 

[Alex Shishin]

The Canon 7s is Great

The Canon 7s is Great

I have a Canon 7s and love it. Recently put a Nikon S adapter on it. It may be al long time before you grew into that camera but I suggest that you have it fixed up and keep it. It will surprise you.

 

[Sonnar Brian]

Stet,
I will check out the Canon 7 repair manual to see if there is an adjustment for this issue. It seems to me that the camera is going into the "rewind" mode as soon as it is moved from "A"dvance. I do not bother with the lock, and just leave it unadvanced. If I set the camera down for longer than anticipated this leaves the curtains in the preferred "released" state. It is not good for mechanical cameras to leave them stored in the wound state for a long periods. It is like leaving a spring with tension on it, it weakens if stretched for too long. I wish Canon had made the wind indicator come into a different position depending on if it was advanced or not. About the only real use it serves is to indicate when the film is rewound off of the advance sprockets.