Mobius
Member
I am about to embark on my first developing of my b&w film. You would think someone who has shot film for over thirty years would have done it by now.
I have some question to what is a good all around developer is for 400 speed film. Currently, I have hp5+, Holga 400, Kentmere 400 and Tmax 400. I really don't want the fuss with mixing powders. I was looking at HC-100, DD-x, Rodinal and etc. I came across Photographers' Formulary FA-1027 and was quite interested in this developer.
I would appreciate any and all feedback from everyone.
Thank you in advance,
Rich
I have some question to what is a good all around developer is for 400 speed film. Currently, I have hp5+, Holga 400, Kentmere 400 and Tmax 400. I really don't want the fuss with mixing powders. I was looking at HC-100, DD-x, Rodinal and etc. I came across Photographers' Formulary FA-1027 and was quite interested in this developer.
I would appreciate any and all feedback from everyone.
Thank you in advance,
Rich
kxl
Social Documentary
HP5+ and HC-110 Dilution B (or Dilution H - half the concentration of Dil B and just double the dev time). It’s like buttah!!! Probably just about foolproof so I would recommend this.
Properly exposed TMY developed in TMAX develeoper (1+7 or 1+9) is simply beautiful.
Both of the above assume exposing both films at box speed.
Properly exposed TMY developed in TMAX develeoper (1+7 or 1+9) is simply beautiful.
Both of the above assume exposing both films at box speed.
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
Skip them all and use only HC-110. Easy and lasts for as long as you have it.
You could also push in it up to ISO 3200. Or pull @200.
You could also push in it up to ISO 3200. Or pull @200.
Dogman
Veteran
Stick on one film and one developer to begin with. Can't go wrong to start with Tri-X or HP5 using traditional developers like D76, HC110 or Rodinal. Don't introduce too many variables. You'll have plenty of time to experiment later.
Papercut
Well-known
Another recommendation for HC-110. It's what I settled on after using Xtol, Thornton's Two Bath, Rodinal, and a few others along the way. It's cheap, widely available, the undiluted syrup lasts nearly forever, and simple. I'm happy with the results (1+63 dilution with minimal agitation for lower contrast, easy-to-scan negs) with Tri-X, HP5+, T-Max, and Acros. (Haven't used it with Efke 25 yet.)
NickTrop
Veteran
Bah. Good ole D-76. Boom. Done.
ptpdprinter
Veteran
He said he can't be bothered mixing powders.
sepiareverb
genius and moron
Well he is clearly wrong
I will vote for HC110 as well. A good standard developer in a long lasting concentrate form, slightly more of a hassle to mix than Rodinal, but better suited to 400 films.
DD-X is excellent on HP5, but is expensive and doesn’t last as long.
Dwig
Well-known
Pick one film, one developer, and then put on "blinders" and totally ignore any and all other options until you get very very good results using that one film and developer.
Long ago and far away, my standard recommendation would have been Tri-X in D-76, generally D-76 1:1. Either of the two films you list would be good combined with HC-110. These combos can deliver excellent results. If you don't get at least very good results then it's because of bad technique, something futzing with different films and/or developers won't fix.
oldwino
Well-known
You should try that new Df96 monobath that just came out.. apparently, it can develop nay film at any temperature.. I’d love to know if that works...
For me, I’ve chosen Xtol replenished.
For me, I’ve chosen Xtol replenished.
NickTrop
Veteran
Mobius
Member
No problems mate. I have a lot of dust allergies and I don't want to take a chance otherwise I probably would do Xtol.
Thank you everyone for the replies.
Thank you everyone for the replies.
Ccoppola82
Well-known
Staying with liquid and simplicity for 400 speed film, I’d have to say HC110 or possibly Pyrocat-HD in glycol from photographers formulary. Both will work well for you