help me define problem

i think i figured out the problem.. the light leaks under and above the curtain.. the things, that press the curtains against the frame arent pressing them enough..

what do you think about such explanation?

and do you think i can kinda bend this "don't know what it's made of" things, so that they put more pressure on the curtains against the frame, without doing harm to my beloved zorki?
 
i think i figured out the problem.. the light leaks under and above the curtain.. the things, that press the curtains against the frame arent pressing them enough..

what do you think about such explanation?

and do you think i can kinda bend this "don't know what it's made of" things, so that they put more pressure on the curtains against the frame, without doing harm to my beloved zorki?
Certainly possible for the baffles to be out of position but they need to be a long way out to give leaks. it would be a bad idea to bend the baffles, although they are thin enough to do so. The bottom one is held by 2 screws, accessible if you remove the camera bottom (4 screws on the base but beware of the washers inside!). Slacken the baffle screws and re-position it. The top baffle is held similarly but you need to take the whole top plate off to get at the screws. That one might be worth some gentle bending instead! Are you sure the curtains aren't very slack and under-tensioned?
 
the curtains shoot, with highly respectable sound :D i like it..

i'll try to explain, when you cock the shutter, the left side of the curtain, when viewed from the back, moves away from the frame slightly.. that makes light more visible..

but light is slightly visible all the time, no matter cocked or uncocked.. the leak is mainly on the right or the curtain baffles, under the rolled curtain, when viewed from the front..

i know it's hard to understand, even if you have your zorki in your hand..
 
I think I follow what you're saying. Firstly, realise that the baffle doesn't extend left or right much beyond the film gate. If you shine a very bright light into this area you will see leaks anyway (don't change lenses in full sunlight for this reason). However, the curtain shouldn't have much of a gap against the baffles. Looking into the front the gap is virtually zero but looking into the back I'd say there's about 0.5-0.7mm gap all around the film gate. Hope that helps to figure if you have a problem!
 
Sure it does, well maybe that confuses me, I'm not so sure about it any more.. does the gap change as you cock?

as the curtain transports to the right, when viewed from the back, a bigger gap appears on the left..
 
Sure it does, well maybe that confuses me, I'm not so sure about it any more.. does the gap change as you cock?

as the curtain transports to the right, when viewed from the back, a bigger gap appears on the left..
As the curtains start to move the metal laths move across, so yes, a bigger gap appears at the left (viewing from the back) - because the lath has moved and the (thinner) curtain is showing. Once the lath is partway across then no, the gap is pretty much constant. If I thought I could photograph it I'd try but the whole area is black so I doubt it would show you much!
 
No thanks, it is not worth the bother.. I can show it to the local repairsman, without much problem, I'm just a DIY person, and like to understand and fix problems myself, when possible.. Much more fun, and more relationship with the cam :D
 
No thanks, it is not worth the bother.. I can show it to the local repairsman, without much problem, I'm just a DIY person, and like to understand and fix problems myself, when possible.. Much more fun, and more relationship with the cam :D
Someone (can't recall who) did a stripdown on the Zorki 6 and posted the details with photos. Search this subforum, it never got stickied (sadly).
 
Good to see that you are making progress.
My Zorki 6 and I had quite a time over a few weeks when I stripped it down to re-glue one of the curtains. There's lots of things to set up that can catch the unwary, the gap of the shields is one such thing. (stripping the thread on the wind lever collar or damaging the wind ratchet is sooooo easy, but that's another story.)

My FED2 has replacement curtains and can give problems with light here, this is also because the set up of the curtain is wrong, and possibly by only 1/2mm, ouch!)

You could check out the curtain-shield gaps and think about moving the shields if necessary, but to be honest, if there were no other reason to take the top off, I would be very tempted to bend the shield into place. If it fails or gives more problems, they are easy to bend back.

The thickest "thing" to pass between the curtains and shields is the two laths when cocking. In this case they overlap. This overlap does vary and is critical for leaks of this type. You have identified that the curtains move at different rates when being cocked. This is because one curtain is being wound ONTO its drum, so is increasing in diameter as cocked, so progressively pulling more curtain as winding continues. The other curtain, as you can guess, is being unwound OFF it's drum so the rate of curtain "feed" decreases as cocking continues. This is progressive across the whole film gate. I would say that my Z6 (the same as any other of it's type) has a difference of around 3mm over the full movement.

So, back to the shields, you could gently check the clearance between the top and bottom shields as the curtains are cocked (doubled laths). You only need enough clearance so as not to make the curtains bind when cocking. When shooting of course, only one lath at a time will pass through the gap.

The overlap: This can easily be wrong and is the most critical factor in replacing curtains.
A good set up should start the cocking with very near to 1/2 the bottom lath overlapping the top. By the time it finishes it will be fully overlapped. Check too that they are parallel.
If this is far out, you have much work to do.

Matching laths: By this I mean that the laths should lie on top of each other without a gap between them. It's very easy and quite common for someone to have poked one lath and bent or bowed it out of shape. Half way through cocking, check that they sit well together, bend both to try to get a matching "bow".

Hope some of this helps:
Dave..
 
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the laths move quite as you said, no problems.. well i'll run through another roll maybe, before i take it to the repairsman.. or should I take it immediately, as there are no problems with it, very cheap in here.. He adjusted tension of the curtains, and the advance lever problems for appr. 3.5$

who knows:p
 
If trying another film, try a few "shots" with the lens covered and cock with and without the lens covered. Might give more clues as to where or when the light gets in.
I'm still having a problem understanding how such unwanted exposure is happening to you film when you don't see much when examining it when peering into the back.
In the past I have resorted to taking test frames with one side of the back taped up, then the next and so on, to find the culprit.


Now before anyone else jumps in..........for the sort of charge made for fixing your cam, how about me sending you my collection of problem cams for a look see at that rate, wow! You could add 100% and it would still be a bargain. Can he fix light leaks?
Good luck.
 
Sure, it's possible,but i live faaaaaaar away, in Georgia, not the state one:D

The shipping costs and times are quite high.. But i'm willing to help if you still are interested.. A hold of many different cams are quite worth the trouble..:D
 
Oh you live in England.. Than you can take out a couple a-s, from faaaaaaar, but anything else is quite the same:p
 
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