Help me pick a $400 RF body

[Jamie Pillers]

I currently own a Bessa R4A and a 28mm Ultron lens. I'm about to purchase a CV 50/1.5 lens. I'd like to buy another RF camera body better suited to the 50mm lens. (The R4A is really best suited for much wider lenses, like my 28.)

I've thought of the Bessa R3A because of the 1:1 viewfinder. But I'm wondering if the RFF community might steer me in a better direction. I don't want to spend more than $400 and I'd prefer to have a built-in meter, unless there's some overriding quality issue that would convince me to buy a meter-less body.

Any suggestions?

 

[stubbie]

For my money I'd buy an R3M. The 50mm framelines are perfect IMO and you have the benefit of keeping the single 'system'. I'd go the M rather than the A purely for that extra bit of insurance if you're venturing far and wide 🙂 You'd have an awesome combination.

 

[Thardy]

The R2A has 50mm frame lines. You should easily find a LN body for about $400.

 

[Jamie Pillers]

Stubbie, I like your idea about the R3M... being able to use the camera even if the meter conks out.

 

[CK Dexter Haven]

Has anyone ever reported an M7, M6, or Voigtlander meter "conking out?" I always read comments that people prefer cameras with mechanical backup speeds, but never a comment about an actual experience where that came in handy.

 

[aizan]

depends on what other lenses you think you'd get. r3a if you'll get a 75mm or 90mm, r2a if you'll get a 35mm. might have to get both, so whichever one is more timely.

 

[Jamie Pillers]

I've never had it happen to me, but I'll bet the likelihood of it happening is inversely proportional to the distance away from home. 🙂

 

[Jamie Pillers]

Aizan,
Good point about the future lens choices. Currently I find I never use long lenses, so I'd most likely pick up a 35mm in the future... hence the R2 body. BUT... that 1:1 viewfinder on the R3 is sure nice!

 

[Jamie Pillers]

Another angle on this question

Another angle on this question

I've also been wondering about bodies like the old Canon P, Canon 7, and the Nikon RFs. These seem to always sell for quite a bit above $400. Is this just because collectors drive the demand up? Or are those old bodies still that good... compared to a fairly new/modern Voigtlander?

 

[JeffGreene]

Has anyone ever reported an M7, M6, or Voigtlander meter "conking out?" I always read comments that people prefer cameras with mechanical backup speeds, but never a comment about an actual experience where that came in handy.

Can't speak for the M7, but the M6 can function without the meter. 😀

 

[Al Patterson]

I've also been wondering about bodies like the old Canon P, Canon 7, and the Nikon RFs. These seem to always sell for quite a bit above $400. Is this just because collectors drive the demand up? Or are those old bodies still that good... compared to a fairly new/modern Voigtlander?

www.keh.com has had Canon P's for $199 from time to time. Some of the 7 models do go higher, but Canon P's can be had for less than $300.

For under $400, you can also get a Leica CL body.

 

[irq506]

Buy a Canonet QL17 GIII, and you get a free 40mm f1.7.

The R3a or m are the best things for the money.

I have actually had my R3a conk out on me, nothing to do with weak batteries, actually because I used the camera in the cold, in downtown Seattle wind-chill last year.... extremely frustrating and annoying. Because I missed the shots I remember them and dont like now to this day the fact that I lost them due to an electromagnetically controlled shutter.

 

[myoptic3]

Well, you could always buy my Canon 7 in Exc Condition and w/ a working meter. The 50 frame lines are nice. $250 would do it, shipping included. The build quality is quite a bit better than the Bessas. The other $150 you'd have left would buy a lot of film. But if you want a viewfinder that shows the meter readings inside the finder, I don't think you have a lot of choices other than the Bessas.

 

[Bingley]

I've also been wondering about bodies like the old Canon P, Canon 7, and the Nikon RFs. These seem to always sell for quite a bit above $400. Is this just because collectors drive the demand up? Or are those old bodies still that good... compared to a fairly new/modern Voigtlander?

If you are willing to go meterless, yes, those ol' Canon P and 7 bodies are that good. The build quality is comparable to Leicas of the same vintage (late 50s/60s). My sense is that you could get a P in very good condition for $300 or less; the Canon 7 goes for a bit less than the P, mainly b/c many more were made and it nowadays lacks the P's cachet. OTOH, the 7 is the poor man's Leica M4...

The big trade-offs, IMO, are: (1) that the P and 7 are LTM mount camera bodies, and while there are many wonderful LTM lenses out there, you'll never be able to mount the latest Zeiss Planar or Biogon on one; (2) only the 7 has a meter, but it is not as serviceable in low light situations as the modern Bessa meters; and (3) the Bessa viewfinders are brighter (but a clean P or 7 viewfinder is plenty bright and clear).

 

[myoptic3]

Oh, I just thought of another alternative. There is some discussion on whether it is an RF camera, but for not much more than your $400 limit (and possibly for just that amount) you could buy a Contax G1 w/ a 45 lens. I love these things, and the lens is certainly sharp. W/ the AF and AE you can grab a shot in no time. They are quirky cameras, and the viewfinders are small compared to M cameras, but you might like one.

 

[JeffGreene]

Oh, I just thought of another alternative. There is some discussion on whether it is an RF camera, but for not much more than your $400 limit (and possibly for just that amount) you could buy a Contax G1 w/ a 45 lens. I love these things, and the lens is certainly sharp. W/ the AF and AE you can grab a shot in no time. They are quirky cameras, and the viewfinders are small compared to M cameras, but you might like one.

I agree, they're nice cameras, but they also are an extreme example of battery dependence. Dead battery no camera! So if you get one, make sure you carry extra batteries. 🙂

 

[FallisPhoto]

For way under $400, you can get an FED or Zorki. You'd get interchangable lenses with that and the Industars can be very good. On the negative side, quality control wasn't all it could be in some years, so you occasionally find lenses that are very bad. Swinging back to the good side of things, for your budget, you could get a body and several lenses, so the odds of getting at least a pair of good lenses are actually pretty decent. There are also Jupiter lenses. When they are working right, Jupiters are better than Industars. Unfortunately, most are not working right. Back to the negative side of things: The best FEDs and Zorkis don't have meters.

 

[underbyte]

I would get a CL before a Zorki. I have both and I wouldn't trust the Zorki in the cold. I had it out last year in 0 degrees F and had a similar experience. Took what would have been some great ice pictures had the shutter not locked up due to the temperature. I got some very strange half images though. A CL has a good meter if it is working too.