Help me write a chemicals shopping list

[SolaresLarrave]

I intend very seriously to start developing my own stuff this year, and since I'll have a chance to go to a nice photography store in Madison WI, I want to know what to shop for before I take the plunge and buy developer, fixer and the like.

Could you guys help me make a list? I simply have (*gulp*) a film picker.

I know I need developing tanks, for now, the kind that will develop one roll at a time. What else?

Thanks in advance!

 

[wlewisiii]

Hey, when will you be up here? I can take you over to Star Photo and get you set up with everything you'll need. Plus I can usually sweet talk a discount if it's a Monday, Wednesday or Friday (Days a friend works 🙂 ) They're good folks there.

William

 

[kmack]

I prefer the liquids, Clayton F76+, HC110, and Rodinal, they store well and give me good results with the films I use. I also keep some Diafine around when I want a speed boost for KB400 and Tri-X.

Ilford rapid fix and Kodak photoflow.

 

[SolaresLarrave]

William, I believe I'll be arriving on Friday evening. In fact, I had thought about contacting you sometime this week.

Now... I'd be willing to buy hardware (spools and bag) for now. I need to learn how to use them and then practice. It helps to know how the chemicals look though.

I had heard about the advantages of buying concentrated developers before. I guess that's points in favor of Rodinal.

OK, photoflow, Rodinal, Ilford fixer. Those are the three chemicals needed, right? First a developer, a fixer and a wash.

What kind of a stop bath should I pick?

BTW, I don't know if they stock Diafine. If they did... I'd go for that one!

 

[venchka]

...I know I need developing tanks, for now, the kind that will develop one roll at a time. What else?

Thanks in advance!

I wouldn't do that. 3 reasons: I learned to use more chemicals than rolls of film. Like 1 roll in a two roll tank, 2 or 3 in a 4 roll tank, etc. The theory is you won't exhaust the chemicals. Maybe a myth, but it worked for me. Other reason: Sooner or later you will want to develop a bunch of film. One roll at a time would be a pain. Another reason: You might go for a medium format camera someday and need to process 120 film.

Rodinal. Works on Kodak, Ilford & Agfa film for sure. Others too I'm sure. Keeps forever. Thrifty if you use 1:50 and 1:100 dilutions.

D76. A zillion folks who used it can't be wrong.

 

[wlewisiii]

Friday? Sounds good, we'll have to get together for sure.

No store has Diafine in stock anywhere in town, though Star will happily special order it. D-76 is probably the best developer for learning - everything can be dunked in it and it's really rather forgiving as these things go. They do have the Ilford in stock, I believe. I prefer a good water wash to stop bath as such. Kodak rapid fix is still the baseline.

As for tanks and the rest, the best thing to do is look at the several options and see what you like. If you want, I've recently switched to stainless steel - you can have my plastic tank and reels.

William

 

[Todd.Hanz]

Buy one developer (D76, Xtol, etc.) and get used to it, shoot and develop 40-50 rolls with it, learn the curve. Buy something that will still be on the shelves in the next year or so (that means the two already mentioned developers and anything by Ilford 🙂 ).

I use tap water for stop bath (but that's just me 🙂 ), no real need for acid.

I use the Patterson "Super tanker" or something like that, it'll handle 2-3 35mm or 2-120 rolls (that's 1L of developer).

Don't forget gallon jugs for your chemicals and stuff you'll have to mix.

Most of all enjoy the process, you're in control now!

Todd

 

[SolaresLarrave]

Texas Wayne, you're right... but right now, I intend to learn how to thread the film in the spool.

However... now that I think about it, I may go for the two or three rolls tanks. Your advice makes sense!

William, we've got to meet! 🙂

 

[back alley]

francisco,

yes, get a 3 reel patterson tank.
a good thermometer is key as is a good timer.

the developer is dependent on the films you use.
i suggest ilford because they support us b&w shooters still.
i like ddx and ilfosol s.
no top bath needed - use water.
ilford rapid fix.
i use orbit wash aid, makes the wash time much shorter and then ilford wetting agent, to help rid the film of water spots.
film hangers, weighted for the bottom of the film,
if you're like me, lots of old towels.

joe

 

[kmack]

film hangers, weighted for the bottom of the film,
if you're like me, lots of old towels.

joe

I like plain old wooden clothes pins and a coat hanger in the shower stall, and yes, never forget your towels.

The shower stall because I can run the hot water a while to knock down the dust then hang my film to dry.

 

[Bryce]

More opinions-
Stainless hardware- Don't know who makes them but there are 35mm reels out there with two prongs to engage the sprocket holes rather than a spring clip to hold the film by friction. These are much easier to learn to use. Wish I had some. Next, most stainless tanks leak when you invert them. I lived with this 'till I got a lid assembly made by Kindermann. Much better, no more "fixer fingers"...
You'll tire of one roll tanks quickly.
Developer- I'll second the opinion above- stick with one for a long time. You'll be sorting variables out for awhile, keep them to a minimum. I love Rodinal, but wouldn't recommend it to start with; the very control it offers means you'll have to experiment a lot to get a working routine.
Stop- Any will do, though some developers don't get along with it. Consider a water bath as an alternative. If you use Rodinal or Acufine you will either replace the stop with a water rinse or end up with pinholes.
Fixer- Any brand, non hardening.
Fixer eliminator- Highly recommended, any brand. Follow the instructions on the package.
Thermometer- Whatever works consistently.
Finally, welcome to B+W! I hope it proves as rewarding as it has for me!

 

[rvaubel]

THIS IS ALL YOU NEED.

*film tank
*Developer
*Fixer
*Container (2-wide mouth juice, liter)
*Measuring cup
*funnel (optional)
*closet or changing bag
*clothes pins (2)
*shower

Its actually pretty hard to get more complicated than this. The only hard part is getting the film on the reel, but once you figure that out (once per lifetime) the rest is easier than making breakfast.

The results will be better than you can ever get from a professional lab. Oh, and it will cost about .25 cents a roll

Rex

 

[SolaresLarrave]

Thanks a lot, guys! I'm going to be as simple as one can. At least I do have some of your items in the list, Rex (shower and clothes pins, and funnel and a measuring cup).

As I said above, I may be buying most of it all this week. As for the chemicals... it remains to be seen. I really want to get the film spooling down pat first.

 

[venchka]

... I really want to get the film spooling down pat first.

OK, that takes about 8 or 11 tries with an old roll of film, lights on for the first 3-4 attempts. 30 minutes tops. Immediately after that you will want to start developing your first roll of REAL film. Buy everything at once.

 

[wlewisiii]

Yep, just grab a roll of the cheapest c-41 you can find (dollar stores usually have something) and sacrifice it. You'll be cranking it on in your changing bag before you know it.

Bryce, those are the Hewes brand. I've got two of them for my 35mm reels and the are well worth tracking down.

William

 

[Bryce]

Thanks William. I used those reels (Hewes) in school and loved them, but I've never run into them for sale. It's not a priority for me, haven't had trouble loading film lately on the spring type reels.

 

[SolaresLarrave]

I tend to follow advice. Hence, if the film spooling takes so little to learn, I'll see to buy the hardware and the chemicals.

Any advice about the tank?

 

[wlewisiii]

As I said, I do have a 2 reel plastic paterson clone from freestylephoto.biz and two plastic adjustable reels that are yours for the taking when you come up. Start with it, get used to the process and then decide if you want to spend the money for a fancier setup.

In the meantime, you may find this attachment from Ilford on how to develope your first roll of film to be interesting reading.

William

 

[thelovecollect]

i like the thermometers built into stirrers...
also a small graduate for measuring concentrate comes in handy...

 

[phototone]

I use a little stop bath between developer and fixer to prolong the life of the fixer. Fixer is acidic, developer is alkaline. By neutralizing the alkalinity of the developer you not only stop development, but you keep the fixer from loosing its acidity due to the residual alkalinity of the developed film you place in the fixer, thus making it work more efficiently and making it last longer.

I also use a couple of very soft sponges dipped in the same photoflo that I do as a final rinse for the film. I dip the already wet and wrung out sponges in the photoflo, speeze them out fully, and then squeegee the film after I have hung it up. This removes all but a thin film of moisture, which dries quickly and leaves very little dust. So, hang film up, squeegee with sponges, then put clip on bottom end. I use fresh photoflo every time I process, I do not reuse, as it tends to collect dust and debris. Just a dribble of photoflo concentrate in a couple of quarts of water. use then dump.