Russ
Well-known
Hello All
I just acquired this camera. I put a battery in it and the meter works fine. However, the aperure is stuck on f/16. Turning the aperture ring does not change the aperture size. Is this an easy repair? A repair that I can perform, or do I have it repaired professionally? Anyone else in here ever experience this same problem? This camera is obvious a Cosina built model. It's very similar to the Vivitar ES and Konica S3, and a few others. I have heard that this 40mm 1.7 lerns is quite good. The lens looks identical to the one in my Viv ES model.
Thanks
Russ
I just acquired this camera. I put a battery in it and the meter works fine. However, the aperure is stuck on f/16. Turning the aperture ring does not change the aperture size. Is this an easy repair? A repair that I can perform, or do I have it repaired professionally? Anyone else in here ever experience this same problem? This camera is obvious a Cosina built model. It's very similar to the Vivitar ES and Konica S3, and a few others. I have heard that this 40mm 1.7 lerns is quite good. The lens looks identical to the one in my Viv ES model.
Thanks
Russ
Nice shot, good light! Scene looks undisturbed for a long time.
Russ
Well-known
Doug said:
Bill
Thanks. Yeah, it hasn't been disturbed in about 100 years. Taken in the Ghost town of Bodie, in California. SLR and Velvia 50. Send me an address, and I'll send you a print of it.
Oh, yeah. I've been past there a few times on both nearby highways but have never driven on in to town.
Well, I now have Rob's 7sII after Joe passed on it.
Mine "appeared" to do the same thing on manual; the Aperture did not change size when the F-Stop lever was moved. However, as it went over the full range on Auto I figured it is just the way it works. The aperture required that the shutter button be press down before it closes, on either auto or manual. So look into the lens, set the aperture to F1.7 and press the shutter release. You should see the blades open up. If they do not, there is a problem.
I opened my camera up and cleaned out the RF; it is quite clear now. The only part that is not accessible is the front element which is a cemented pair. It "hazed" slightly, but not enough to be visible unless shinging a light through it. The RF was right-on, so no need to adjust. I am betting that the VF/RF is interchangeable with the Vivitar 35EE Konica C35; and will probably investigate. If you find a damaged 7sII, they may make good donor cameras. The latter two are nice, but fully programmed only and F2.8 lenses.
I am replacing the light-seals now, but wanted to post about the aperture operation. It is different from most other cameras that i have.
Mine "appeared" to do the same thing on manual; the Aperture did not change size when the F-Stop lever was moved. However, as it went over the full range on Auto I figured it is just the way it works. The aperture required that the shutter button be press down before it closes, on either auto or manual. So look into the lens, set the aperture to F1.7 and press the shutter release. You should see the blades open up. If they do not, there is a problem.
I opened my camera up and cleaned out the RF; it is quite clear now. The only part that is not accessible is the front element which is a cemented pair. It "hazed" slightly, but not enough to be visible unless shinging a light through it. The RF was right-on, so no need to adjust. I am betting that the VF/RF is interchangeable with the Vivitar 35EE Konica C35; and will probably investigate. If you find a damaged 7sII, they may make good donor cameras. The latter two are nice, but fully programmed only and F2.8 lenses.
I am replacing the light-seals now, but wanted to post about the aperture operation. It is different from most other cameras that i have.
back alley
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brian, you sound very handy.
if i had bought the minolta it would have cost me about 100 cdn to have a cla on it.
i think i'm saving for another bessa body first.
joe
if i had bought the minolta it would have cost me about 100 cdn to have a cla on it.
i think i'm saving for another bessa body first.
joe
Russ
Well-known
Brian Sweeney said:
Russ,
You are looking at about $70 for a professional repair; Essex in New Jersey charges $68 for a Hi-Matic 7 and $60 for a C35. Add $8 for shipping and handling. EMail them for an estimate; but given that so many cameras are based on this chassis, they should have parts available.
I have a Canonet now, and have several over the last 25 years. I always come back to them for that soft shutter release. Compare it with the long throw of any other trap-needle automatic camera. BUT, the lens is not quite as sharp as the Hi-Matic 9, Hi-Matic E, Olympus, or Yashica GSN. Remember that this was a $100 camera brand new. The difference is slightly noticeable in 5x7 prints.
Handy? I give cameras my best dumb look and have learned to be careful in lining up a good fitting screw driver with those old screws. I have carved two slots into one each screw of my Nikon SP's to get the bezel off. The top of the Minolta came off with a pair of tweezers for the advance lever and a very good German Screwdriver for the Philips head screws. The Hot-Shoe wire is Soldered on, so you have to be very careful with it. The Minolta Hi-Matic E uses insulated contacts so that the top comes off completely. Stuck-Aperture; I only go this far in when the camera is a parts only basket case and I want to learn how it was put together. Sometimes I get lucky on those. I suspect the trap needle system is stuck; but that is a WAG.
You are looking at about $70 for a professional repair; Essex in New Jersey charges $68 for a Hi-Matic 7 and $60 for a C35. Add $8 for shipping and handling. EMail them for an estimate; but given that so many cameras are based on this chassis, they should have parts available.
I have a Canonet now, and have several over the last 25 years. I always come back to them for that soft shutter release. Compare it with the long throw of any other trap-needle automatic camera. BUT, the lens is not quite as sharp as the Hi-Matic 9, Hi-Matic E, Olympus, or Yashica GSN. Remember that this was a $100 camera brand new. The difference is slightly noticeable in 5x7 prints.
Handy? I give cameras my best dumb look and have learned to be careful in lining up a good fitting screw driver with those old screws. I have carved two slots into one each screw of my Nikon SP's to get the bezel off. The top of the Minolta came off with a pair of tweezers for the advance lever and a very good German Screwdriver for the Philips head screws. The Hot-Shoe wire is Soldered on, so you have to be very careful with it. The Minolta Hi-Matic E uses insulated contacts so that the top comes off completely. Stuck-Aperture; I only go this far in when the camera is a parts only basket case and I want to learn how it was put together. Sometimes I get lucky on those. I suspect the trap needle system is stuck; but that is a WAG.
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Just one with the Canonet; at about F4. I would gibe the Hi-Matic 9 and Hi-Matic E a slight edge over the Canonet for sharpness. But the Canonet is no slouch; it is much sharper than my Xenars and other 4-element normals.
It was a very wet 4th of July in DC today; I spent some time cleaning the Yashica GT viewfinder and putting new light seals. A world of difference! I could get to all of the VF/RF elements and got the haze off of the semi-silvered mirror. I followed "yashica-guy" instructions. I found that the rewind knob came off gripping it by hand using a rubber band. I use ice cube trays to hold all of the parts in sequence that come off rather than a dish. I cleaned the mirror by "breathing" on it and GENTLY wiping with a good quality Q-tip. The PC sync is soldered on the GT, so be careful with the top. Not too much force to require getting out the soldering iron. The bright-lines are bright again and the RF spot is brighter than my Nikons.
It was a very wet 4th of July in DC today; I spent some time cleaning the Yashica GT viewfinder and putting new light seals. A world of difference! I could get to all of the VF/RF elements and got the haze off of the semi-silvered mirror. I followed "yashica-guy" instructions. I found that the rewind knob came off gripping it by hand using a rubber band. I use ice cube trays to hold all of the parts in sequence that come off rather than a dish. I cleaned the mirror by "breathing" on it and GENTLY wiping with a good quality Q-tip. The PC sync is soldered on the GT, so be careful with the top. Not too much force to require getting out the soldering iron. The bright-lines are bright again and the RF spot is brighter than my Nikons.
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and you say you're not handy!
cute photo, i love the short hair.
joe
cute photo, i love the short hair.
joe