Help needed - ND Filter for Summilux

dave lackey

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So, I am just now getting my sea legs back and venturing on deck with the Leica R4 and an 80 Summilux R (on loan for awhile, thanks, Bobby). Fast lens and thin DOF. That is what I like!

Spring is here with sun for a change. Walking outside with the dream rig, and my Tri-X film, I realize that in bright sunlight I have to shoot at f11....:eek: Crap! The R4 only has 1000 shutter speed. I prefer shallow DOF!

So, I may jump on an R8 body (if I can sell something to pay for it) and increase the speed to 1/8000. Or...

Maybe a ND filter? If so, which one? Hoya has a 0.9 (3 stop) ND filter for $39. Maybe also drop to 100 speed film?

What else?

Your recommendations are coveted.:angel:
 
I wouldn't go further than 3 stops, Dave, otherwise you'll have problems focusing (assuming you have a split image screen). I use ND0.9 routinely, works well, you won't loose too much contrast or color behavior. ND filters are great, since you can remove them for the few occasions when you need the speed (filling up a roll, shooting in a restaurant after a walk, etc.).

Roland.
 
Just two days ago, I ordered a ND for my Zeiss 85/1.4 which can only be used wide open due to broken aperture blades. I was unable to use this lens on sunny days.
 
Good to hear so far!

So, if I go with an ND filter for 3 stops, I can shoot at f4, using 400 film. Then, to f2.0 with 100 film but if I don't want to change film, I would be better off with the R8 and 1/8000 shutter speed plus the ND filter...

I think...

Is this right?:confused:
 
Actually, optically, Hoya MRC filters are the best there are. Modern Leica filters use Hoya glass, too.

I normally go for B+W filters, however, since they seem better built and are easier to clean.

BTW, I do shoot ND8 with my 75 Lux, often with ASA400. I just avoid the full sun - it's a great combo for the "golden hours".
 
Would this work for you?

Would this work for you?

Dave,
I'm in the "use the slowest film possible, fast only when you have to" camp. Using fast film and ND seems counterproductive to me.

If shooting only black and white perhaps a filter that will give you slower shutter speed as well as provide some other benefits would work for you...a two stop orange, for example.
Combine that with Fuji Acros at E.I. 64 yields front lit bright sunlight 1/500 at f 2.8...would that get the exposure where you'd like it?

and Jordan is right...negative film, both color and B&W, suffer from underexposure. Kodak is rather optimistic re: Tri-X's sensitivity ...shooting it at EI250 or even 200 will produce a beefier negative and banish those "Black and White" prints with no blacks and no whites. Plus, it nudges the SS in the direction you wish.

But, if you just love TX perhaps shooting it at 250 and a 3 stop ND will do the trick...if not, B+W makes a 6 stop one.

Regards,
Joseph
 
Hmm...lots to consider. B&H also has two B+W ND filters (0.9). One appears to be uncoated at $80 and the other is multi-coated at $119.

Maybe I should try the TriX at 250...kinda scared to waste a roll but it might be a good thing to try out.

Is a faster shutter speed worth considering?
 
I ordered a Vivitar Series 1 filter ND8. Hoya would also be a good choice to save on the cost of the ND filter. German filters can be quite expensive.
 
Hmm...lots to consider. B&H also has two B+W ND filters (0.9). One appears to be uncoated at $80 and the other is multi-coated at $119.

Maybe I should try the TriX at 250...kinda scared to waste a roll but it might be a good thing to try out.

Is a faster shutter speed worth considering?

I would try using the slowest film possible for your chosen photography type, along with a "mild" ND filter that does not cut too much light off.
 
aperture optical density f-stop reduction % transmittance


ND2 1/2 0.3 1 50%
ND4 1/4 0.6 2 25%
ND8 1/8 0.9 3 12.5%

I got ND8, which gives 1/8 of the light to go through.
 
At 1/8000 you will be running into reciprocity failure. Take a look at the kodak charts. I don't think that increasing the shutter speed in this manner will help you gain 3 stops affectively.
The R8 is an odd Camera. Very large and chunky. Look at an R7. I loved that camera and highly recommend it (less dough as well).


http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f4017/f4017.pdf
 
At 1/8000 you will be running into reciprocity failure. Take a look at the kodak charts. I don't think that increasing the shutter speed in this manner will help you gain 3 stops affectively.
The R8 is an odd Camera. Very large and chunky. Look at an R7. I loved that camera and highly recommend it (less dough as well).


http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f4017/f4017.pdf

Hmmm...hadn't thought about reciprocity but it would not need to go all the way to 1/8000 with the right combination...IIRC. Thanks for bringing that up!:angel:

For me, IMO, the R8/9 are the most aesthetic and beautiful SLRs ever made. Just my opinion and nothing else will do...not even the incredible Nikon F6 with the melted blob form. :p And I do like the F6, a lot.

Selling something I don't use much anymore (If I can find something) to get what I consider the best designed SLR is worth it especially if it allows free use of this incredible lens. But for sure, an ND filter will be needed.

Never shot film except as rated so that will be a new experience!:eek:

Thanks for the input..oh, yes, the R7 is amazing, too.:)
 
Something like a 3 stop ND filter seems the ticket for what you want. Have one myself for just this purpose, a hoya I think, although bought it after I stopped shooting, so don't have any pics with with. You figure if you're exposing your TriX at 250, a 3 stop ND filter gets you down to f2.8 @ 1/1000 in bright sunlight, f2.0 in hazy sun, and f1.4 in overcast weather.

Here in Ireland, where its pretty much only ever overcast or hazy sunlight, 3 stops is ideal. If you need an extra stop on top of the 3, maybe consider stacking the ND with something like a medium yellow, as not sure how easy it is to get hold of something like a 4 or 5 stop ND or even if anyone makes anything aside from 1, 2 & 3 stop ND's, 10 stoppers or expensive variable ND's.

I shoot in all kinds of available light (when I do shoots), and find it very handy to be able to shoot everything from outdoors to indoors, and even night shots, all with one 400 speed film, a fast lens, and an ND filter when I need to shoot at wider apertures in daylight.
 
ND8 implies a 3 stop ND filter. It is also labeled as 0.9 filter

ND8 1/8 0.9 3 12.5%
 
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