Help: Nikkor Noct 58 disassemble

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manson_h

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Hi, I just got a Noct 58 which shows heavy sign of use and the focusing ring is sticky. Anyone has idea how to disassemble the focusing ring of Noct 58?
 
Ever disassembled a lens before? If you've never been in a standard short-telephoto 50, I wouldn't try and learn on a Noct-Nikkor. It's definitely possible to fix the focusing grease issues without getting deep into the glass, but you need to be aware of certain gotchas like scribing helical positions and an infinity reference ahead of time.
 
This lens is valuable enough that you probably want to send it to an experienced repair person to work on it.
The double helicoids of the big fast aperture Nikkors are quite complex and there is some adjustment built in for precise collimation of the lens. If you don't have the optical tools to reset infinity focus after dismantling the lens, you could end up with a very nice, rare close or far-focusing paperweight.
I'm pretty experienced in working on lenses, particularly Nikkors and Leicas. I have an 85mm f/1.4 AIS that I'd love to clean but is both massive and complex enough that I don't want to get into the lens and risk not getting it back together properly. Your Noct Nikkor is worth 10x what my 85mm is and while brave, I'd never venture to touch it.
All that said, the way to get into the helicoid probably starts under the rubber grip.

Phil Forrest
 
Phil_F_NM said:
This lens is valuable enough that you probably want to send it to an experienced repair person to work on it.
Click to expand...

Yep, I also think so as well. This definitely falls into the realm of "well if you have to ask..."

The double helicoids of the big fast aperture Nikkors are quite complex and there is some adjustment built in for precise collimation of the lens. If you don't have the optical tools to reset infinity focus after dismantling the lens, you could end up with a very nice, rare close or far-focusing paperweight.
Click to expand...

Well, I somewhat disagree on the collimation aspect. Not having a collimator means one has to rely on less precise methods like pre-scribing of the focus ring against the helical edge and/or manual back and forth against an "infinity" target - but my disagreement is that not being dead nuts on infinity sure as heck doesn't make the lens a paperweight. If you've got some slightly off-infinity Nikkors hanging around, let me know, I'll take them off your hands.

But yes, I don't think someone should mess with a lens of this cost unless they've fixed atleast 20 other similar lenses.
 
Thanks Clayne. All lens glasses are removed from the lens barrel, but I don't have any idea how to disassemble the focusing helicord.
 
If you haven't removed any of the glass elements from the mounts they're in, I'd put it all back together and send it off to someone. Working with helicals requires subtle knowledge of serious gotchas that can make the repair very time-consuming if you don't get it right. These are expensive and rare lenses.
 
manson_h said:
Thanks Clayne. All lens glasses are removed from the lens barrel, but I don't have any idea how to disassemble the focusing helicord.
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Did you separate the glass elements from the mount or are all of them still in one piece?
If you did, you need to send the lens to a place like APS (Authorized Photo Service.) nikoncamerarepair.com
Actually, I'd send it there even if you didn't get the glass elements out. Nikon may not even work on this lens anymore since they have scaled back their service on older items.
And keep us up to date on how this pans out.
Good luck!

Phil Forrest
 
Phil_F_NM said:
Did you separate the glass elements from the mount or are all of them still in one piece?
If you did, you need to send the lens to a place like APS (Authorized Photo Service.) nikoncamerarepair.com
Actually, I'd send it there even if you didn't get the glass elements out. Nikon may not even work on this lens anymore since they have scaled back their service on older items.
And keep us up to date on how this pans out.
Good luck!

Phil Forrest
Click to expand...

The glass elements are still in one piece.
 
Very easy to get the lens cell out.
First unscrew the front part of the focus ring.
Remove the little set screw on the front ring, you can see it at min focus setting. Unscrew the ring with the filter threads.
Then the optical cell pops out.
You can now see the helicoil threads.
There are two square 'stoppers' that keep the lens from rotating, remove both, unscrew the helicoil, mark where both threads disengages.
Clean and relube with #S30 grease.

Repair manual is available for this lens online.

Edit: Here is more info and images you might want to sign up...
There are differences between AI and AIs... but they both come apart like above 🙂
 
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Erik Gunst Lund said:
Very easy to get the lens cell out.
First unscrew the front part of the focus ring.
Remove the little set screw on the front ring, you can see it at min focus setting. Unscrew the ring with the filter threads.
Then the optical cell pops out.
You can now see the helicoil threads.
There are two square 'stoppers' that keep the lens from rotating, remove both, unscrew the helicoil, mark where both threads disengages.
Clean and relube with #S30 grease.

Repair manual is available for this lens online.

Edit: Here is more info and images you might want to sign up...
There are differences between AI and AIs... but they both come apart like above 🙂
Click to expand...

As per Phil, is there any screw under the rubber grip? I can't see the pictures even I signed up as member.
 
No, there is not a screw under the rubber.

The set screw is in the front ring with the filter threads...

There are two different designs;

One where you just focus at minimum distance and you can see the screw just in front of the focus ring.

The other design has a split focus ring

If you can't see the screw you have the focus ring that splits into two parts like this:

A rear part with the engravings and it continues under the focus rubber and ends, with male threads about 55mm diameter threads.
A front focus ring part with female threads about 55mm.

Grab the front ring with a firm grip, use a piece of rubber or a strip of gaffers tape and a nylon strip on top.

I don't understand that you can't see the images on NikonGear.....

Here is similar lens 50mm 1.4 and 1.2 drawing
Almost all short Nikkor lenses are similar in design
 
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Erik Gunst Lund said:
No, there is not a screw under the rubber.

The set screw is in the front ring with the filter threads...

There are two different designs;

One where you just focus at minimum distance and you can see the screw just in front of the focus ring.

The other design has a split focus ring

If you can't see the screw you have the focus ring that splits into two parts like this:

A rear part with the engravings and it continues under the focus rubber and ends, with male threads about 55mm diameter threads.
A front focus ring part with female threads about 55mm.

Grab the front ring with a firm grip, use a piece of rubber or a strip of gaffers tape and a nylon strip on top.

I don't understand that you can't see the images on NikonGear.....

Here is similar lens 50mm 1.4 and 1.2 drawing
Almost all short Nikkor lenses are similar in design
Click to expand...

When I clicked the attached photo, it shows "Sorry, you don't have permission for that!"
 
Guys, you should be focusing on making sure the helicals are appropriately marked/scribed against the focus ring and that said helicals are also marked/scribed against themselves before even separating any of the focusing mechanism.

I wouldn't screw around on this particular lens until one has done cheaper lenses like a 50/1.4, etc.
 
I would tend to agree that this is probably not the lens to practice on...!

The precision and tolerances for this lens are extremely important.

But taking out the optical cell in one piece and putting it back in doesn't change anything at all regarding the optics.

Erik Gunst Lund said:
...
unscrew the helicoil, mark where both threads disengages.
...
Click to expand...
 
Erik Gunst Lund said:
I would tend to agree that this is probably not the lens to practice on...!

The precision and tolerances for this lens are extremely important.

But taking out the optical cell in one piece and putting it back in doesn't change anything at all regarding the optics.
Click to expand...

I agree whole heartedly that removing the front and rear cells isn't an issue with these lenses. The problem is that unless the focus stops themselves are marked off then infinity will be out the window when he puts it back together.

Really it's not those specifics that are the issue. It's that we can write all day about what to do or not to do but with this type of work its much easier understood by doing a couple of times first. That's where the cheap 50/1.4 practice lens should come in.
 
clayne said:
I agree whole heartedly that removing the front and rear cells isn't an issue with these lenses. The problem is that unless the focus stops themselves are marked off then infinity will be out the window when he puts it back together.

Really it's not those specifics that are the issue. It's that we can write all day about what to do or not to do but with this type of work its much easier understood by doing a couple of times first. That's where the cheap 50/1.4 practice lens should come in.
Click to expand...

Since the back lens element was scratched pretty hard, so I got this lens at a bargaining price. And thats why I decided to lub the lens by myself.
 
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