Help on Nikon F4

[PaulDalex]

I hope it is not too heretic to ask questions on a srl, having seen the success of "show your srl".
I am 63 and I used a Nikon F for many years back in the sixties and seventies. The next camera was a CLE, so I left Nikon and I am unfamiliar with the successive evolution
I recently bought both an F and an F4 as a platform to use Zeiss ZF optics, but only the 50's, so I would like to buy cheap used Nikkors for other focal lens.
I already have a 100E (never tried it yet).
Now I have seen a 28 3,5 non AIS. I am confused about the info on mounting this lens on the F4. Some sources say that I can meter, other that I have to stop down.
Who is right?
Cheers
Paul

 

[Ade-oh]

IIRC, the F4 has a fold-out meter coupling prong which you need to engage with the coupling fork on the lens. You then need to register the lens... but I can't honestly remember how this is done. However, I'm sure that you will be able to find a Nikon F4 manual in pdf form on the net, and if not, I do still have the Hove Nikon F4 guide somewhere which gives instructions on how to do it and which I can dig out for you. It's a long time since I used or owned an F4 but they are superb cameras!

 

[Ken Ford]

F4 doesn't have an IC metering prong connection - only AI and later lenses meter full aperture. Stop-down metering is called for with NAI glass.

Nikon used to offer AI conversion rings for many if not most NAI lenses. A search turned up this pNut thread about your lens and the F4: http://photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00Ix2Y

Also, here's a page with serial number ranges. I note that one particular version of the 28/3.5 is listed as being incompatible with the F4, an issue mentioned in the pNet thread: http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/serialno.html#28. Note that two versions list the required AI conversion kit number - maybe your version is convertible.

I have an F4e - amazing body! I use MF Nikkors on it; I converted all my older glass in the 80s using the replacement aperture rings.

 

[PaulDalex]

Thank you all very much indeed.
It is amazing. No question is beyond reach for this photo knowledge tank.
Now I have the manual in pdf, and it says nay. So I wanted to double check.
Serial number is 860947, so it is 1973-74. At least it is not the one incompatible.
By the way, I have attached both the Zeiss and the E without any particular care. Did I do anything wrong to the body?
I see the E engages a lever on the mount. I presume is to tell the camera some info. But I cannot find the folding prong you are talking of.
Cheers
Paul

 

[PaulDalex]

Ken, are you saying that the user himself can do the conversion? Is it still possible to find the aperture replacement ring?
One thing I like of this body is the possibility (I guess unique aside the Contax RX) of focusing manually and electronically altogheter.
To my disappointment ,my body, that cosmetically is perfect, has an imprecise meter. This is annoying especially for the spot that underexposes by 1 stop. On the DP20 the error is 1/2 stop so that I could compensate using the ad hoc screw.
All in all I like the camera, where it not for the need to take a separate meter, I would be more enthusiast. As soon can afford to take my time I want to investigate this strange meter deviation.

 

[ncd_photo]

There is some very useful info on the differences here
http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/nikonfmount/lens2.htm

The folding tab is just round from the locating dot in a CCW direction. It folds up out of the way when you mount a NAI lens as far as I'm aware. You need to push the silver button in to unlock it.
Put the camera into Aperture priority and turn the aperture ring, the VF will get darker and the meter reading will change.
Probably best to use spot meter mode for this use.

 

[PaulDalex]

Thank you all again.
The bottom line is that the 28 3,5 is not recommended for the F4 as stated clearly here:
http://photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00Ix2Y
I see very well the matte area bulging out.
So you spared me the big error to buy such lens.
I REALLY APPRECIATE YOUR HELP!
As to the folding prong, i will chase it tomorrow under the sunshine.
Cheers
Paul

 

[Ken Ford]

Paul: I know you're going to pass on this 28/3.5, but yes - in my experience the conversion is easily done at home so long as you have a good set of jewelers screwdrivers, good light and some patience. No one lens took more than ten minutes to convert, you simply remove the lens mount and swap the ring. I think I converted six or seven lenses.

I haven't looked for one in years, but I'm sure they turn up on eBay.

 

[L. M. Tu]

You've likely checked this already, but, regarding the meter readings being off, the DP-20 meter has a compensation adjustment setting (for the use of certain focusing screens). Yours may need to be set to 0.

My first post on rangefinderforum, by the way 🙂

 

[PaulDalex]

WELCOME TU,
indeed I adjusted to +1/2. Now the average is correct. As to the spot I looked at the optical path. Assuming that the circuitry function properly, either the mirror is too transparent or the film plane is too clear or both. Matter for another round of body tuning.
Ken,
actually I am in search for an AIS alternative. The list of little pieces bought to complete the camera is already very long. The rubber eyecup just arrived.
It might seem strange, but it is crucial for me. Side light disturbes too mach my aged eye.
As soon as I complete my F4 bag I want to post a photo of the Giugiaro baby.
Cheers
Paul

 

[L. M. Tu]

Thank you. I've used F and F2 cameras for nearly 30 years, but I got my first truly "modern" film camera, an F4s, just two weeks ago. So far, I just love it, including the size, weight, and feel of the thing. I also have a really old 28mmF3.5 Nikkor, but it has a factory AI ring on it and it works well on the F4. I too am looking for accessories, the MF-23 being next on the list...

WELCOME TU,
indeed I adjusted to +1/2. Now the average is correct. As to the spot I looked at the optical path. Assuming that the circuitry function properly, either the mirror is too transparent or the film plane is too clear or both. Matter for another round of body tuning.
Ken,
actually I am in search for an AIS alternative. The list of little pieces bought to complete the camera is already very long. The rubber eyecup just arrived.
It might seem strange, but it is crucial for me. Side light disturbes too mach my aged eye.
As soon as I complete my F4 bag I want to post a photo of the Giugiaro baby.
Cheers
Paul

 

[PaulDalex]

In anticipation of the arrival of the F4 I bought a repair manual in PDF form, that comes in various files (terrible quality). I dug into it and here comes the prank. It reads: to calibrate the spot meter follow the indications of your PC. So Nikon personel have a PC to look at for various procedures.
I guess there are somewhere a couple damned screws to make this calibration.
I want to do it myself. And I dislike the idea to tweak the iso setting
GRR
Cheers
Paul

 

[Ken Ford]

Did you try John Wall's (IIRC) F4 FAQ for more information? I don't have the link handy, but a search should turn it up.