brankop
Member
Hello all,
I need help with my Zorki-6 rangefinder issue.
I inherited a Zorki-6 (640000280) with Industar-50 lens (6402689) that was not used for 30 years. After the excitement from seeing first photographs was over, I noticed a problem(s) with the rangefinder.
The following is observed:
1. when lens is set to 3 m and rangefinder is horizontally aligned, the distance from a target to the film plane is 2.85 m,
2. when lens is at infinity, an object at approximately 50 m is slightly misaligned in rangefinder,
3. when the lens is set to any distance less than 2.5 m, the rangefinder is not moving,
4. it appears to me that when the lens is set between 3 m and infinity, the rangefinder is operating normally.
5. the rangefinder is vertically misaligned but that is not of primary concern
Please advise,
I need help with my Zorki-6 rangefinder issue.
I inherited a Zorki-6 (640000280) with Industar-50 lens (6402689) that was not used for 30 years. After the excitement from seeing first photographs was over, I noticed a problem(s) with the rangefinder.
The following is observed:
1. when lens is set to 3 m and rangefinder is horizontally aligned, the distance from a target to the film plane is 2.85 m,
2. when lens is at infinity, an object at approximately 50 m is slightly misaligned in rangefinder,
3. when the lens is set to any distance less than 2.5 m, the rangefinder is not moving,
4. it appears to me that when the lens is set between 3 m and infinity, the rangefinder is operating normally.
5. the rangefinder is vertically misaligned but that is not of primary concern
Please advise,
Nomad Z
Well-known
Point the camera at a subject 2.5m away, focus the lens on the subject, and note the alignment in the RF (it might not be perfect). Then take the lens off and see if the alignment changes for the same subject at the same distance.
If the RF alignment doesn't get closer with the lens off, then there is an issue with the camera. If it does get closer, it might be the lens.
brankop
Member
Thanks for the quick answer.
RF alignment did not move after removing the lens set at 2.5m. Any idea what would cause this problem?
RF alignment did not move after removing the lens set at 2.5m. Any idea what would cause this problem?
NeeZee
Well-known
Had a similar problem with a zorki 1 i once owned. The RF coupler was a bit stiff from grease and stopped at some point when the lens was focused close. Try if you can carefully pull the coupler further with your hands and check if it comes closer to 1m.
wolves3012
Veteran
As has been said, the RF sensor may not be operating over its full range. Take the lens off and carefully place a finger onto the pie-shaped sensor. By pushing it in you should be able to go "beyond infinity", in other words you should be able to overlap the images of very distant objects and go beyond the correct overlap. By releasing the sensor and allowing it to push out to the full extent you should be able to get overlap on an object closer than 1 metre away (how much closer isn't really important, just as long as it's below 1m).
If these two extremes are possible, your RF is covering a sufficient range. That being so, I would re-calibrate the RF according to the instructions given in the 'sticky' thread at the top of this forum. The sticky also tells you how to correct the vertical alignment and that MUST be done before horizontal adjustments.
If the RF is not covering the full range then it is probably limited by congealed grease or dirt. In that case you need to decide whether to attack the problem yourself (it's not that difficult but you need to be fairly confident, mechanically, to attempt it). If you aren't confident, it would be better taken for professional attention. If you do it yourself, there is also a 'sticky' thread covering dismantling the Zorki 6. You would mainly need to remove the top cover to access the RF mechanics, not go through the entire process!
If these two extremes are possible, your RF is covering a sufficient range. That being so, I would re-calibrate the RF according to the instructions given in the 'sticky' thread at the top of this forum. The sticky also tells you how to correct the vertical alignment and that MUST be done before horizontal adjustments.
If the RF is not covering the full range then it is probably limited by congealed grease or dirt. In that case you need to decide whether to attack the problem yourself (it's not that difficult but you need to be fairly confident, mechanically, to attempt it). If you aren't confident, it would be better taken for professional attention. If you do it yourself, there is also a 'sticky' thread covering dismantling the Zorki 6. You would mainly need to remove the top cover to access the RF mechanics, not go through the entire process!
brankop
Member
Thanks for your valuable inputs.
I was able to push the RF sensor toward the image plane so the RF was focusing "beyond infinity". Also, I was able to pull it out so RF focused at approximately 0.5m. In both cases I had to apply minimal force. So I guess the RF mechanism has sufficient range.
While doing this, I noticed that the RF sensor would return from the "beyond infinity" position to a certain point (2.5 m?) without my intervention. Beyond that point, I had to pull it manually in order to achieve 0.5 m.
Considering that 3m scale on the lens matches 3m distance when focused with RF, is it a problem in RF alignment or is it grease or dirt? Or both?
Please advise
I was able to push the RF sensor toward the image plane so the RF was focusing "beyond infinity". Also, I was able to pull it out so RF focused at approximately 0.5m. In both cases I had to apply minimal force. So I guess the RF mechanism has sufficient range.
While doing this, I noticed that the RF sensor would return from the "beyond infinity" position to a certain point (2.5 m?) without my intervention. Beyond that point, I had to pull it manually in order to achieve 0.5 m.
Considering that 3m scale on the lens matches 3m distance when focused with RF, is it a problem in RF alignment or is it grease or dirt? Or both?
Please advise
wolves3012
Veteran
Pushing the sensor in does so against a spring, that same spring should push it out to the "under 1m" position all on its own. Since you had to pull the sensor beyond the 2.5m position, you do have a problem that needs resolving. Dirt, congealed grease or a mis-placed return spring could all be culprits but it doesn't seem likely that an adjustment alone will cure it.
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brankop
Member
Thanks again. It appears to me that I have to open the top of the camera to access stuck elements of the RF and clean them.
Two novice questions: is there a consensus between members of the forum regarding the best way to loosen seized/rusted screws without damaging the camera's body (surface)? In addition, what would be the best way to remove old grease?
Two more questions: what material is the lens mount made of? Nickel plated brass? And what material is that lock on hinged back made of?
Two novice questions: is there a consensus between members of the forum regarding the best way to loosen seized/rusted screws without damaging the camera's body (surface)? In addition, what would be the best way to remove old grease?
Two more questions: what material is the lens mount made of? Nickel plated brass? And what material is that lock on hinged back made of?
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
Before diving into the internals of the camera you may want to try this. As said it's probably sticky from stiff lubrication which may free up with a little heat. Sit the camera in front of a heater for a while until it's quite warm to the touch then move the RF arm in and out for a while. Often this will loosen up the dried lubricant sufficiently to allow it to work normally again.
wolves3012
Veteran
Unless the camera has had bad encounters with water or damp, rust is generally not a problem. Assuming you can get to the piece, a release oil (plus-gas type stuff) or diesel fuel generally gets things undone, in combination with the correct sized screwdriver etc. The biggest problem with the Zorki 6 is undoing the shutter button-surround, they can be very troublesome. It is the part immediately surrounding the release button and you should make careful note that it has a left-handed thread, meaning that it unscrews clockwise. It it not a nut, has no indentations etc. For that, wrap a thin piece of elastic band of a piece of fine sandpaper around the rim to get some grip. Local heat will also help but you need to use some common sense about where and what sort of heat to apply.
For grease removal, use lighter petrol (often called naphtha) but again, common sense dictates how and where to apply this - it's best kept away from plastic and optics.
The lens mount is aluminium and the back-release I suspect is chromed brass. If you are tempted to remove the lens mount for any reason, you need to be very careful when replacing it - the screws should be tightened progressively in an X-pattern to avoid distorting the mount.
David Hughes
David Hughes
Hi,
Quote "Two novice questions: is there a consensus between members of the forum regarding the best way to loosen seized/rusted screws without damaging the camera's body (surface)? In addition, what would be the best way to remove old grease?"
Actually that's three questions ;-) and the answer to the first is that consensus is rare; we all have our own way of doing thing and all reject some ways. It gets quite heated at times. F'instance my attitude is that if you have to ask then you shouldn't be doing it. far better to get Oleg to deal with it and get everything sorted out.
Removing screws without damaging the screw and body depends mainly on having a decent quality screwdriver that fits the screw's slot perfectly. A lot of them are poor quality and a tight screw will often wreck the screwdriver's blade. There are a lot of very cheap and nasty sets of screwdrivers for sale these days and I, for one, don't trust them.
Also it's very easy to damage the screw head by twisting half of it off. Then you'll have a lot of problems I'd not expect you to be able to solve at home. Getting a replacement screw is one of the problems, once the remains of the old one have been removed but removing a damaged screw is very difficult; some have suggested witchcraft...
I don't know what the situation is today but we used to use very, very thin oils on the screws and leave them to soak before tackling them. There's probably something far superior available today but what it is I'll leave to others to suggest.
As for removing old grease; everything I'd swear by is now banned. Sorry I can't help there.
BTW, as it's a neglected for 30 years camera, you seem to be very lucky.
Regards, David
Quote "Two novice questions: is there a consensus between members of the forum regarding the best way to loosen seized/rusted screws without damaging the camera's body (surface)? In addition, what would be the best way to remove old grease?"
Actually that's three questions ;-) and the answer to the first is that consensus is rare; we all have our own way of doing thing and all reject some ways. It gets quite heated at times. F'instance my attitude is that if you have to ask then you shouldn't be doing it. far better to get Oleg to deal with it and get everything sorted out.
Removing screws without damaging the screw and body depends mainly on having a decent quality screwdriver that fits the screw's slot perfectly. A lot of them are poor quality and a tight screw will often wreck the screwdriver's blade. There are a lot of very cheap and nasty sets of screwdrivers for sale these days and I, for one, don't trust them.
Also it's very easy to damage the screw head by twisting half of it off. Then you'll have a lot of problems I'd not expect you to be able to solve at home. Getting a replacement screw is one of the problems, once the remains of the old one have been removed but removing a damaged screw is very difficult; some have suggested witchcraft...
I don't know what the situation is today but we used to use very, very thin oils on the screws and leave them to soak before tackling them. There's probably something far superior available today but what it is I'll leave to others to suggest.
As for removing old grease; everything I'd swear by is now banned. Sorry I can't help there.
BTW, as it's a neglected for 30 years camera, you seem to be very lucky.
Regards, David
brankop
Member
Thanks again for inputs. I would not have any problem to send the camera to Oleg, but I would hate to lose it in mail. The camera has significant emotional value for me. An example: previous owner did not have one hand, and I can see scratch marks on the take-up spool spring that he made while using some tools to insert the film. That was a struggle.
The camera was kept for 30 years locked on a shelf in a relative dry climate. It does have few corrosion marks. The one that is particularly troublesome is the part where the lens is attached. I removed and cleaned it, but it needs to be plated. I suspected that is nickel plated brass, but wolves3012 indicated that it might be chromed brass. I will investigate(ask) further.
Since I have an access to a soldering station which can precisely deliver heated air (temperature controlled), I will try 'heating method' suggested by Keith. My intention is just to warm up the shaft connecting sensor handle to RF. Any suggestions?
Best
The camera was kept for 30 years locked on a shelf in a relative dry climate. It does have few corrosion marks. The one that is particularly troublesome is the part where the lens is attached. I removed and cleaned it, but it needs to be plated. I suspected that is nickel plated brass, but wolves3012 indicated that it might be chromed brass. I will investigate(ask) further.
Since I have an access to a soldering station which can precisely deliver heated air (temperature controlled), I will try 'heating method' suggested by Keith. My intention is just to warm up the shaft connecting sensor handle to RF. Any suggestions?
Best
pyrus
Newbie
Hi brankop,
don't want to discourage you but I'm no fan of the heating way. First, you have quite some glass and silk and other things around which don't like to be heated at all. Second - I've never worked with a Zorki 6 but with several other russian rangefinders, and even with cosmetically good examples I found it inevitable to dismantle and clean them down to the skeleton.
Some heat may help sometimes for some time. But in the long run, you have to get this old sticky grease out anyway. It will freeze your rangefinder again some day, and this will most problaby happen in the one moment when you need it working for this one and only photo ...
So, my advice would be either to trust the mail delivery service or to become a diy expert. If you know what to do with a good soldering station you should be able to learn this task, too. Look for the old book of a certain Maizenberg about soviet cameras - I forgot the place, but it's somewhere around downloadable in the net - with very detailled advice and sketches. Google around and you'll find lots of advice and pictures showing how to tackle with this job.
One last advice. You said this special Zorki is of emotional value to you. So maybe it's better you first get yourself another Zorki (or FED) of any type, preferably a real beater. They are all not that different inside. Take this poor machine as an exercise, dismantle and repair it. You will experience all the broken screws, soft aluminium casts,misaligned rangefinder mechanisms, all the great garbage produces by a former superpower.
Afterwards, you will either surrender - or be prepared to do the real thing.
Good luck!
Robert
don't want to discourage you but I'm no fan of the heating way. First, you have quite some glass and silk and other things around which don't like to be heated at all. Second - I've never worked with a Zorki 6 but with several other russian rangefinders, and even with cosmetically good examples I found it inevitable to dismantle and clean them down to the skeleton.
Some heat may help sometimes for some time. But in the long run, you have to get this old sticky grease out anyway. It will freeze your rangefinder again some day, and this will most problaby happen in the one moment when you need it working for this one and only photo ...
So, my advice would be either to trust the mail delivery service or to become a diy expert. If you know what to do with a good soldering station you should be able to learn this task, too. Look for the old book of a certain Maizenberg about soviet cameras - I forgot the place, but it's somewhere around downloadable in the net - with very detailled advice and sketches. Google around and you'll find lots of advice and pictures showing how to tackle with this job.
One last advice. You said this special Zorki is of emotional value to you. So maybe it's better you first get yourself another Zorki (or FED) of any type, preferably a real beater. They are all not that different inside. Take this poor machine as an exercise, dismantle and repair it. You will experience all the broken screws, soft aluminium casts,misaligned rangefinder mechanisms, all the great garbage produces by a former superpower.
Afterwards, you will either surrender - or be prepared to do the real thing.
Good luck!
Robert
brankop
Member
Hello Robert,
I have been waiting for delivery of one Zorki-6 with a serial number close to mine. Hopefully it will not differ significantly. Does anyone have a list that correlates camera's serial numbers with the year of manufacturing?
I will postpone any steps (including heating) until I educate myself.
Does anyone know what material is that lock on hinged back made of?
Best
I have been waiting for delivery of one Zorki-6 with a serial number close to mine. Hopefully it will not differ significantly. Does anyone have a list that correlates camera's serial numbers with the year of manufacturing?
I will postpone any steps (including heating) until I educate myself.
Does anyone know what material is that lock on hinged back made of?
Best
pyrus
Newbie
Hin brankop,
apart from some very early examples the serial numbers first two digits tell you the year of production. same with soviet lenses.
Robert
apart from some very early examples the serial numbers first two digits tell you the year of production. same with soviet lenses.
Robert
fanshaw
Well-known
There may be a really simple solution. I had the same problem and fixed it by cleaning the pivot of the rangefinder arm with lighter fuel. The internal spring was working but the arm was too stiff on the pivot so it didn't move freely.
brankop
Member
Thank you,
I assume that I have to open the top cover in order to access the pivot of the rangefinder arm. Am I correct?
Best,
I assume that I have to open the top cover in order to access the pivot of the rangefinder arm. Am I correct?
Best,
pyrus
Newbie
No, its okay to put a drop of lighter fluid from outside, reaching through the lens mount while holding the camera upside down. but it should be a real small drop - I use a syringe with a tiny needle for jobs like that. R
brankop
Member
Hello pyrus,
I just wanted to let you know that your advice was right on spot: two-three drops of light fluid onto the base of the pivot of the rangefinder worked as a charm.
Thanks
I just wanted to let you know that your advice was right on spot: two-three drops of light fluid onto the base of the pivot of the rangefinder worked as a charm.
Thanks