help?

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A while back, I happened on a good deal for a Linhof MT with a Schieder 210 apo symmar and other goodies. I later found a good deal on a Schneider 110. I am trying to round out a kit properly with a wide and macro. Any ideas? I have searched online and the 80 macro comes up. However, the wide end is a bit hard for me to think about in 4x5 / large format terms. Were it 35mm, my focal length preferences run 60, 35, 25 (sometimes 21).
 
... the wide end is a bit hard for me to think about in 4x5 / large format terms. Were it 35mm, my focal length preferences run 60, 35, 25 (sometimes 21).

It's a bit hard to determine what equivalent lenses would be given the large difference in the two aspect ratios. In "crop factor" terms, as used with small sensor digitals when comparing to 35mmFF, you could think of 4x5 as being ~0.4-0.3x relative to 35mmFF or 35mmFF being ~2.5-3x relative to 4x5.

To get the effect of a 21mm on 35mmFF you're looking at something in the 55-65mm range on 4x5, depending on whether you crop the 35mm to match 4x5 or the other way around. The common 4x5 wide angle is a 90mm lens which roughly equates to a 28-35mm lens on 35mmFF. Again, your mileage will vary depending on whether one, the other, or neither.
 
BUT... with the different (squarer) format, a longer lens looks wider. Even so, I'd agree that 70-80mm is what you need for a 21mm 'look'.

Cheers,

R.
 
Thanks, Roger.

I'm not ashamed to say that using this beast is a bit daunting. While I get the general concepts behind the camera, the implementation ni the MT is something of a mystery. For example, I understand that one needs proper cams to use the RF with particular lenses and that with close focus, the light falloff requires compensation. However, initial (proper) setup of the units with a lens and subsequent making of said measurements for compensation is a bit confusing. I have had little luck finding the MT-specific details I seek online. If you or others have advice, I would welcome it.

Thanks,
Phil
 
Lenses need to be professionally cammed. Well, you can do it yourself -- I cammed my 150 Apo Lanthar for an MPP -- but it's hard work: see http://www.mppusers.com/diycamplates.htm

Exposure increase is fairly simple as long as you remember the following:

At ONE-TENTH life size on the film, don't worry about exposure compensation.

At QUARTER life size on the film, increase exposure HALF A STOP

At HALF life size on the film, increase ONE stop

At LIFE SIZE on the film, increase TWO STOPS

Interpolate for other extensions. If you're shooting neg, err on the side of over-exposure. The minor loss of sharpness is not important with 4x5 inch. Nor is the minor increase in grain for conventional B+W film. Remember that

At QUARTER life size on the film, bellows length is focal length +1/4 e.g. 187.5 mm for 150mm lens

At HALF life size on the film, bellows length is focal length +1/2 e.g. 225 mm for 150mm lens

At LIFE SIZE on the film, bellows length is 2x focal length e.g. 300 mm for 150mm lens

Cheers,

R.
 
Thanks, Roger. I'll hop down to the discount shop and buy a ruler. This might not be as hard as I had thought if I can do without the RF.

Out of curiosity, what is the default setup suited to? I mean, the camera cam with a scale along the track which is marked f=150 and has ticks from infinity to 1.2. I gather this works with the RF and cam to help with focusing of some focal length. Or I could just be walking in the woods on this one. :-D
 
Dear Phil,

Yes, the scale for a 150mm lens (f=150) focusing down to 1.2 m. Not all 150s are exactly 150mm so it's a matter of luck (or the right cam for a specific lens -- the lens no. should be engraved on the cam) whether it'll focus perfectly with the cam. The scale should be reliable and accurate enough for any 150mm lens, and is exchangeable for other focal lengths (slide in-slide out). See http://www.google.fr/url?sa=t&rct=j...dp6ZMZvYqSIAsNcSkLHuffg&bvm=bv.46751780,d.d2k for lots more information (camera instruction book in PDF format).

Cheers,

R.
 
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