here is my x100 review ...

+1 on using raw

If there is one fault with the camera for me it is that the exposure compensation is too easy to move. I don't know how many times I forgot to double check to make sure the setting did not get moved after taking the camera out of my bag :bang:

Shooting raw has given me at least a chance in saving the picture. But I have been shooting in raw since my first Nikon dslr, so that I can have more info to control what final picture will look like as well.

I also tend to use non-destructive approach. Instead of lr3, I ended up using aperture for this.

Gary

Aperture has the advantage of being much cheaper than LR for similar functions.

To stop the comp dial from moving put a thin O-ring over it and this will keep it still.
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not sure which 'white balance thing' youre referring to, but if i can help i'd be happy to if you could elaborate.

here's something for you to play with/think about: the auto iso feature works in conjunction with the auto hdr function. so one of the real plusses of the x100 is it handles complicated lighting situations much better than almost any other cam. in those situations, if you have auto iso and auto hdr set the cam, among other adjustments, changes iso in the shadow areas, thus preserving highlights but opening up darker areas. when setting auto iso, you set both the high and low end parameters as well as the slowest shutter speed you want. then you really dont have to worry about changing iso, and the x100 does a sashing job of taking care of this.
 
I think Adorama has LR3 for a little more than Aperture right now.

I've tried to get along with Aperture, but I find LR3 much easier to use - the controls make sense for me with some darkroom background and past experience with PS.
 
My advice is to avoid auto ISO. I was never happy with the ISO selection and the native maximum ISO is 1600. I under expose when ISO 1600 is not enough and increase the exposure of the raw file in Lightroom. I have the fn button set for ISO.

I never use auto DR either.
 
i have had excellent experience with auto iso especially coupled with auto hdr. ive set parameters for base iso at 200 and max at 3200, and never had issue with cam not going beyond 1600. indeed, several pro reviewers suggested this combination of settings, which is what led me to try it out. now it may turn out that one may himself want to control iso for a particular creative purpose, especially when shooting b&w, but in most normal situations i daresay this is not the case. and for those situations the x100 works virtually flawlessly at these settings.
 
Auto-ISO is excellent. If shooting JPG then use Auto-DR too.

The camera is then extremely protective of highlights. You will need to adjust mid tone exposure or "fill light" but the detail available in those mid tone is better than my 5D2 at ISO 800 and above.

The JPG engine in the X100 is so good that I really struggle to match the conversions when shooting RAW with LR. But I have reverted to RAW again now that winter's back and many shots are under artificial light, just for the WB freedom.
 
Well, I haven't owned the X100 for too long but I don't really see the '3D look' I hear about. More likely I've been spoiled by Rollei, Zeiss and 1Ds with Zeiss lenses! And about that bokeh: it has a busy, granular sort of look. Or at least it looks like that in the limited amount of examples I have.

I agree that the auto ISO works great with the 200DR thing. I am still shooting both RAW and JPG as it is interesting to see how different they look. The only problem is when I want to turn auto ISO off: I have go digging into some cursed menu!
 
My advice is to avoid auto ISO. I was never happy with the ISO selection and the native maximum ISO is 1600. I under expose when ISO 1600 is not enough and increase the exposure of the raw file in Lightroom. I have the fn button set for ISO.

I'd strongly question the real-world effect of shooting at 1600 and bumping a stop in LR vs in-camera 3200, aside from having to worry more about exposure at the time of the shot. I've shot at 3200 and I've pushed 1600 when necessary (ie I blew an exposure), and from what I've seen the 3200 looks better.
 
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