hex af has landed

Hi Ray

Hi Ray

[ edit, see message below ]

Yes, I've read the many reviews that P mode "tries to use your set Aperture", and the only difference between P and A is that A lets you take the photo, and P will not if the shutter speed it thinks it needs is above 1/250 or below your preset low speed (default 1/30th), but if you look at the Program mode for 100 ASA EV in the manual, it clearly gives a line for all EV ranges varying shutter speeds while keeping lens at 5.6, 11, and 16 for one EV. What's the easiest way for us to test this?

I also don't need to manually focus, the only focus errors I've had (2 or 3 shots out of 6 rolls) are when I locked and then moved without re-locking. I've read there are some M3 users who say they can focus as fast, and I don't doubt them, but for 99% of photographers, myself included, it's hard to imagine they can focus as fast or as accurate as the AF assuming decent light.

ray_g said:
I just have not found a need to manually focus. BTW, I don't know if you are correct about the P mode. IIRC, it is a function of the minimum shutter speed you set, and the aperture setting on your dial. That is, if I set the minumum shutter speed to 1/15 and I dial in f/4, the camera will use f/4 until it it is bright enough that the needed speed is faster than 1/250, after which it starts stopping the lens down. The opposite happens when light gets low. It shoots at f/4 until a speed slower than 1/15 is required, then it starts opening the lens up.
 
Last edited:
Perhaps you are correct Ray

Perhaps you are correct Ray

Hi Ray,

Well I read the manual again, and it's true that the manual does state what you are saying in that for P mode, it uses your wheel set A setting and adjusts shutter speed to as low as your critical shake, or up to 1/250.

I can't understand why the manual has the P mode exposure chart with the solid and dotted lines crossing several speeds and about 4 EV ranges each at 5.6 and 11 ?? Could it have been meant for a flash mode??

ray_g said:
I just have not found a need to manually focus. BTW, I don't know if you are correct about the P mode. IIRC, it is a function of the minimum shutter speed you set, and the aperture setting on your dial. That is, if I set the minumum shutter speed to 1/15 and I dial in f/4, the camera will use f/4 until it it is bright enough that the needed speed is faster than 1/250, after which it starts stopping the lens down. The opposite happens when light gets low. It shoots at f/4 until a speed slower than 1/15 is required, then it starts opening the lens up.
 
Congrats Joe. Before you banish the Hex , let it cast its spell - wait to see the results.

I've found that the way to grow into it is to take it out by itself - figuring it out is a journey into the minds of Japanese electronic and optical engineers. A different world to an all manual spot metered RF.


Enjoy!
 
today, it was just the af and myself.
maybe it wasn't fair to say the cl is more fun.
the af experience was just foreign and unfamiliar in that the camera did the thinking and the work. i just 'pushed the button'.
even with the zi on ae i still have be more involved.

tomorow i take the full zi kit out for some shooting. my goal is to shoot all 4 lenses on one roll and compare the pics.
 
back alley said:
today, it was just the af and myself.
maybe it wasn't fair to say the cl is more fun.
the af experience was just foreign and unfamiliar in that the camera did the thinking and the work. i just 'pushed the button'.
even with the zi on ae i still have be more involved...

Yes Joe i know what you mean - it doesn't feel as "organic"as turning an aperture ring on a lens somehow does it?
Perhaps one day I'll have the gumption to by a manual classic Canon and then use a handheld meter more often - its for that kind of feel that I went to RF.
 
Back
Top Bottom