ZeissFan
Veteran
So, does anyone shoot Canon with Canon lenses? It seems that a lot of people who are buying Canon bodies are using them with lenses from other camera makers.
Merkin
For the Weekend
the vast majority of canon users never use anything other than canon lenses, this trend is mainly yet another microcosm of the internet that seems to be based loosely around rff.
gavinlg
Veteran
Hehe... I do, and I happen to think the canon L primes are some of the best lenses out there.
sojournerphoto
Veteran
I use some canon lenses. AF is useful and good, so my 50, 85 and 100 macro get a lot of use. A couple of zooms (24-105 and 70-200 f4) get a bit less, but I bought the Zeiss wides because they do what I need, and cost less than the canon L wides
Mike
Merkin
For the Weekend
I took the post I was referencing to mean 'lenses with mounts other than EF mount.' I certainly cant blame anyone for using the EF (or f, or k) zeiss lenses.
gdi
Veteran
Here are a couple of shots with a Zuiko 21mm/3.5 and full frame EOS. I have no trouble focusing either a 5D or a 20D (aftermarket split screen). A 5d will run over $1000 and a 20D probably $300...
5D:
Eos 630:
5D:
Eos 630:
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hexar_hp5
Member
Interesting thread. Something along the same lines of what I've been investigating.
Problem is that there seems to be a lot of internet chatter of serious vignetting with the 5d and wide apertures.
Not sure if it's any better with the D700.
Problem is that there seems to be a lot of internet chatter of serious vignetting with the 5d and wide apertures.
Not sure if it's any better with the D700.
Thardy
Veteran
gavinlg
Veteran
vignetting is not a camera fault. it's the lenses fault. The d700 and 5d will have exactly the same vignetting characteristics with similar lenses because of the large imaging circle. Any full frame camera with a fast prime is going to vignette.
BobPS
Established
I'd say it's a 30D body. AFAIK it's a bit better in high ISO than 20D, and it's definitely cheaper than the later models like 40D or 50D.
To focus, you will have to use stop-down focusing method. On a 30D with it's tiny and not so bright view finder, it's a must. To me, any aperture smaller than f/5.6 is too dark to focus correctly without stop down focusing.
Using non EF lenses, there's a focus confirmation that will beep or blink when you're focus, but only if you use an adapter with focus confirmation. On some xxD model, the focus screen is not interchangeable (can't remember which one) .
I do not change the focus screen on my 30D so I bought and use an adapter with focus confirmation when I use non EF lenses on my 30D body.
ZeissFan sez:
I do. I have several L lenses and love them.
The reason I use non EF lenses is because before I moved to digital (canon) I was a nikon shooter, and since I have 3 nikkor lenses already, I want to be able use them so I bought an adapter and use the nikkor lenses on my canon every now and then.
Bob
biomed
Veteran
I still shoot some with my 10D with Canon lenses. Mostly I use my Canon glass on an Elan 7E body. I have thought about an aadapter for My old mf Nikkor glass, but decided the my F2 is the best host for those lenses.
Mike
biomed
Veteran
I agree 100%. I have a 10D and never use anything but AF because the small tunnel like viewfinder makes manual focus difficult, even with the focus confirmation indicator.
Mike
kuzano
Veteran
I am going to get the 5D
I am going to get the 5D
Prices are incredibly attractive in the range of reviews that can be found for this camera.
I find only two things disconcerting on the Canon 5D, so will be extremely picky on the seller reputation that I can find.
There is no sensor cleaning system in the camera, so I am concerned about any seller who may have self cleaned the sensor and the method used. I would prefer a camera that was sent in for service perhaps.
There is no mechanism in the camera for finding shutter count, and as I have been told so far, only a Canon service center can hook up and download shutter clicks... for about $40.
So, it's a 5D for me, if I can get comfortable with those two concerns.
I am going to get the 5D
Prices are incredibly attractive in the range of reviews that can be found for this camera.
I find only two things disconcerting on the Canon 5D, so will be extremely picky on the seller reputation that I can find.
There is no sensor cleaning system in the camera, so I am concerned about any seller who may have self cleaned the sensor and the method used. I would prefer a camera that was sent in for service perhaps.
There is no mechanism in the camera for finding shutter count, and as I have been told so far, only a Canon service center can hook up and download shutter clicks... for about $40.
So, it's a 5D for me, if I can get comfortable with those two concerns.
R
ruben
Guest
Hi folks,
From the new and old interventions there are further issues. One of them is the LIVE VIEW. I have live view 10x at the Panasonic G1, and its seems not to be a problem but when you use is for close distance subjects . At those instances a 10X enlargement makes you hard to know if you are focussing ypur puppy's tail or head.
But according to the data, and if my memory doesn't fall at the canon 450 you can select bgtween 7X and 10X..
Now there is a factor that I didn't notice to day and it is that senor sizes in all Canon Dslrs are not the same full frame - shame you ! - so unless I go for the most prohibitively expensive full frame sensor models, I will meet my old enemy from the the micro 4/3 Borgia family, trapping me to death at the wide end of the manual lenses. Because there, even the super wide rectilinear Tamron 17mm becomess into a poor and simple 34mm.
Yet the non full frame Canon sensors are still bigger sized that the Oly/Panasonic 4/3 and their micro 4/3 - w3hich is the same sensor size- imposing a ruthless crop factor of 2x - an original super wide 17mm will turn into a aoor 34mm and you have no solution for a wider lens.
So the question then becomes which is the crop factor in those smaller sensor Canon dslrs. Is there any formula to calculate the crop factor by calculating the sensor diagonal ?
Now, you may ask me why I am driving some of you half crazy with all these after having a G1 Panasonic - The New Thing and I will tell you for your joy, but kindly keep it secret. Due to the kit lenses, starting at f3.5~5.6, and taking into consideration Image stabilization, when you shoot at low light, street photography, you end with a very stabilized shot of f/4 for example, at 1/10th of a second.
This is fine to shoot walls, but not suitable to shoot people.
Cheers,
Ruben
Kindly do not spread the bad news, because then I will have to start with all the dark glasses beach boys , who shoot with one lens only, half a camera, a quarter of a pixel, an ounce of filter, etc. And there is a single fixed focal lens there for them, but it is not my style, nor my understanding of d/slrs advances.
From the new and old interventions there are further issues. One of them is the LIVE VIEW. I have live view 10x at the Panasonic G1, and its seems not to be a problem but when you use is for close distance subjects . At those instances a 10X enlargement makes you hard to know if you are focussing ypur puppy's tail or head.
But according to the data, and if my memory doesn't fall at the canon 450 you can select bgtween 7X and 10X..
Now there is a factor that I didn't notice to day and it is that senor sizes in all Canon Dslrs are not the same full frame - shame you ! - so unless I go for the most prohibitively expensive full frame sensor models, I will meet my old enemy from the the micro 4/3 Borgia family, trapping me to death at the wide end of the manual lenses. Because there, even the super wide rectilinear Tamron 17mm becomess into a poor and simple 34mm.
Yet the non full frame Canon sensors are still bigger sized that the Oly/Panasonic 4/3 and their micro 4/3 - w3hich is the same sensor size- imposing a ruthless crop factor of 2x - an original super wide 17mm will turn into a aoor 34mm and you have no solution for a wider lens.
So the question then becomes which is the crop factor in those smaller sensor Canon dslrs. Is there any formula to calculate the crop factor by calculating the sensor diagonal ?
Now, you may ask me why I am driving some of you half crazy with all these after having a G1 Panasonic - The New Thing and I will tell you for your joy, but kindly keep it secret. Due to the kit lenses, starting at f3.5~5.6, and taking into consideration Image stabilization, when you shoot at low light, street photography, you end with a very stabilized shot of f/4 for example, at 1/10th of a second.
This is fine to shoot walls, but not suitable to shoot people.
Cheers,
Ruben
Kindly do not spread the bad news, because then I will have to start with all the dark glasses beach boys , who shoot with one lens only, half a camera, a quarter of a pixel, an ounce of filter, etc. And there is a single fixed focal lens there for them, but it is not my style, nor my understanding of d/slrs advances.
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BobPS
Established
Don't know about the formula, but the crop factor for xxD and xxxD is 1.6x.
Bob
Bob
nksyoon
Well-known
Non-full frame Canons are approx 1.6x crop.
Regarding vignetting, here is a sample with an Olympus OM 24/2 on Canon 5D. The lighting probably accentuates the vignetting.
Prosaic™
-
Still work best on film. No crop factor, no adapters, no live view hassle, no chinese after market split screens.
See also
http://www.flickr.com/groups/om-4ti/
http://photo.net/equipment/olympus/olympus-OM-system
Brad Maestas
Established
I wanted to upgrade to a 5D from my 20D for some time but the money I spent on Leica gear set me back a bit.
I have been using a Shimada-san/Elefoto C/Y-to-EOS adapter on my 20D for several months now. In the past, I had been only interested in the adapters with the focus confirmation chip but I had read accounts of people having problems with their bodies even though were listed as compatible. I saw that Photo Village had these no-chip adapters in stock so I paid a visit and bought one - and a C/Y-to-M adapter as well!
*Just a little side story:
The owner was funny. The first time I ever went there I asked to see the CY-M adapter. He gave me a strange look like it shouldn't exist but he dug around in a drawer and finally found it. I felt kinda bad because I couldn't buy it right then and there (it was expensive) but I told him I'd be back for it. A couple of months later I went back to buy it and he seemed quite happy to sell it. Apparently no one had ever asked about it so it had been sitting there for a long time and he had forgotten all about it. I tried out the 28/2.8 that I had brought with me just to make sure everything fit right and we both reckoned I was probably the only guy in NYC shooting Zeiss SLR glass on a RF. He asked me how I'd focus them and he gave me another bewildered look when I said I had to use the distance scale.
I have not had much difficulty in focusing by eye with the 20D even with the small viewfinder and its standard matte. It's certainly a challenge using the 50/1.4 but I don't use that one very much on the Canon. I mostly use the 28/2.8 (which becomes a 50
) and the 35-135 zoom, both of which are superb. I would really prefer a FF body but that's a ways off for me. I've seen a lot of 5D's for great prices though. I'd likely sell my 20D and that would make me to have to sell my two EF-S lenses, which is fine by me. The 10-22 has proven to be useful at times but I've become bored with the wide end of that lens.
The biggest factor is whether you want a crop body or a FF body. Having owned the 1D and the 20D, I am officially done with crop bodies. I'll continue (begrudgingly) to use my 20D until I can afford to get a 5D or perhaps even a 5DmkII but I would not recommend going with a crop body unless a used 5D is out of your budget. However, if you always shot with long lenses, like wildlife for example, a crop body can be your friend if you need the reach.
I have been using a Shimada-san/Elefoto C/Y-to-EOS adapter on my 20D for several months now. In the past, I had been only interested in the adapters with the focus confirmation chip but I had read accounts of people having problems with their bodies even though were listed as compatible. I saw that Photo Village had these no-chip adapters in stock so I paid a visit and bought one - and a C/Y-to-M adapter as well!
*Just a little side story:
The owner was funny. The first time I ever went there I asked to see the CY-M adapter. He gave me a strange look like it shouldn't exist but he dug around in a drawer and finally found it. I felt kinda bad because I couldn't buy it right then and there (it was expensive) but I told him I'd be back for it. A couple of months later I went back to buy it and he seemed quite happy to sell it. Apparently no one had ever asked about it so it had been sitting there for a long time and he had forgotten all about it. I tried out the 28/2.8 that I had brought with me just to make sure everything fit right and we both reckoned I was probably the only guy in NYC shooting Zeiss SLR glass on a RF. He asked me how I'd focus them and he gave me another bewildered look when I said I had to use the distance scale.
I have not had much difficulty in focusing by eye with the 20D even with the small viewfinder and its standard matte. It's certainly a challenge using the 50/1.4 but I don't use that one very much on the Canon. I mostly use the 28/2.8 (which becomes a 50
) and the 35-135 zoom, both of which are superb. I would really prefer a FF body but that's a ways off for me. I've seen a lot of 5D's for great prices though. I'd likely sell my 20D and that would make me to have to sell my two EF-S lenses, which is fine by me. The 10-22 has proven to be useful at times but I've become bored with the wide end of that lens.The biggest factor is whether you want a crop body or a FF body. Having owned the 1D and the 20D, I am officially done with crop bodies. I'll continue (begrudgingly) to use my 20D until I can afford to get a 5D or perhaps even a 5DmkII but I would not recommend going with a crop body unless a used 5D is out of your budget. However, if you always shot with long lenses, like wildlife for example, a crop body can be your friend if you need the reach.
sojournerphoto
Veteran
Ruben
If you want clean high iso performance on a relative budget a second hand 5D is probably the (very) sweet spot. It's likely to cost less than a new 50D or whatever they call it now. The crop sensor cameras are just not as good. Prosaic's comment is only halfway right - there is no crop factor on a 5D and no live view. Live view is a nice extra to have, but for most use you want to be able to focus through the viewfinder. dslr vf's tend to be optimised for brightness rather than focusing, but canon sell different screens for the 5D up. If you get a reliable af confirm adaptor they're fine - Happypages are supposed to be OK - I've had good and bad in my time from other suppliers.
I have a 1Ds3 and still haven't sold the 5D.
Mike
If you want clean high iso performance on a relative budget a second hand 5D is probably the (very) sweet spot. It's likely to cost less than a new 50D or whatever they call it now. The crop sensor cameras are just not as good. Prosaic's comment is only halfway right - there is no crop factor on a 5D and no live view. Live view is a nice extra to have, but for most use you want to be able to focus through the viewfinder. dslr vf's tend to be optimised for brightness rather than focusing, but canon sell different screens for the 5D up. If you get a reliable af confirm adaptor they're fine - Happypages are supposed to be OK - I've had good and bad in my time from other suppliers.
I have a 1Ds3 and still haven't sold the 5D.
Mike
slungu
Established
I am a pretty long time manual focus lens user on Canon, so maybe these consideration could be usefull to you : the Canon has the smallest sensor to flange distance of the current DSLR's plus a pretty large mount, so you can adapt many lenses on it trough adapter. This is a blessing and a curse : you do not have to do anything to change the lens itself, but are on the mercy of the adapter. Adapters can be chiped, so they give you focus confirmation. This is good esp. with slow lenses, where focusing by the screen would be a problem. The little finder on the crop body is a pain to work with. I had a 300D and had the screen changed to a microprism screen, but you have to adjust it and it darkens at f4. I wanted a full frame anyway, so I got a used 1Ds MkI. It is good for me, but high ISO is not its playground. For that I would recomend a 5D. Only shortcomming is it does not have LiveView, but I am pretty old fashioned so I don't miss this because I like to shoot with the camera to my eye. So you can get one of the new crop cameras that have a good high ISO performance and some LiveView but a little viewfinder and 1.6x crop factor or you can go for an old 5D. I would opt for the latter, but it is your call.