Hi-matic E shutter problem

[vidgamer]

I picked up a Hi-matic E for way too cheap at a local thrift store. Looks pristine, but when I put fresh batteries in it (zinc-air), it doesn't work right. Without batteries, this camera is known to not open the shutter at all. But with batteries, it acts like a "bulb" setting -- it stays open as long as I hold the shutter button. The self-timer works, and holds the shutter open for about a second.

Can anyone diagnose what is wrong? I'm thinking that the meter is broken, even though it seems to respond to batteries. It sounds like it could be a mechanical problem, but the meter window seems kind of odd to me.

I'd like to try to get it working, but wondering if it's even worth it. (Although, chances are the next one I buy will have its own problems, at least these things are cheap....)

 

[Bill58]

It is DEFINITELY worth it to get it CLA'd and new foam seals. It has a super lens! I luv mine.

Bill

 

[vidgamer]

Thanks for the comment. I'm concerned that a CLA might not be enough.... Rather than toss more money into this one, it might make more sense to try another one. :-(

The behavior changed as I played with it, so there is definitely something sticking. But there's no oil on the blades. My suspicion is that if the meter is dead, this is what it would look like, and if so, a CLA wouldn't do any good. (If the meter itself needed to be replaced I would imagine it'd be hard for a repair shop to do that.) I guess I wish I knew what to look for in the meter (or how to open the thing up!).

 

[FallisPhoto]

Thanks for the comment. I'm concerned that a CLA might not be enough.... Rather than toss more money into this one, it might make more sense to try another one. :-(

The behavior changed as I played with it, so there is definitely something sticking. But there's no oil on the blades. My suspicion is that if the meter is dead, this is what it would look like, and if so, a CLA wouldn't do any good. (If the meter itself needed to be replaced I would imagine it'd be hard for a repair shop to do that.) I guess I wish I knew what to look for in the meter (or how to open the thing up!).

If they are sticking, you can take it for granted there is oil on the blades, whether you can see it or not. If the blades are sticking, you can also take it for granted that there is dried oil in the gears. It almost certainly needs a CLA.

WARNING: Do NOT set the self-timer. Those are the weakest points with Hi-Matics and if you set the self timer on a Hi-Matic with a sticking shutter it will jam. This locks the camera up entirely and unsticking it becomes a really huge job.

 

[Sonnar Brian]

The electronics could be dead as well. I have a Hi-Matic E with the same problem. Cleaned it up, cleaned the contacts, put original type batteries in, it just stayed open. If the photocell or other electronics that control the shutter are dead, it will be a problem to get fixed easily.

i would suggest getting a Minolta Hi-Matic 9. Bigger, lens is as sharp, and mechanical operation that does not depend on 40 year old electronics.

 

[vidgamer]

Thanks for the comments.

I thought about a Hi-Matic 9 or 7s or similar, but they are noticeably larger. Not that the E is a pocket camera, mind you, but there aren't a whole lot of small-ish cameras with a f1.7 lens!

 

[Sonnar Brian]

The Canonet Ql17 GIII has an F1.7 lens, and is a mechanical camera with "trap needle" automation. It allows you to set the shutter speed, and it sets the F-stop. Yoy can also use it as a manual camera. And- it is "more repairable" than the HM-E.

I sold my Good HM-E, it was the second one that has the same problem as yours. But it was in a box of stuff for $15, which included an LTM 135/3.8 lens.