High ISO film & FSU rfs

Photoflaneur

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Jan 10, 2006
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Darmstadt, Germany
Hello,

I just placed some Neopan 1600 in my Zorki 6, and I'm wondering if any of you have ever used this combination. Iirc the Neopan is rated at ISO 800 and has a sensitivity range of EI 400 - 3200. Max shutter speed on the Z6 is 500, I think my lab processes Neopan at 1600, the lab will not process differently upon request. So, I've got the shutter at 500, keeping aperture on f-16 because it's sunny out today, although Germany should be at f-8 on sunny days. I hope it grows overcast, so I can meddle with the shutter and aperture, I really am intent on using the Z6, as it's been decorating the shelf for about a year. Any ideas how I can have a feast with the Z6 and the Neopan?

Greetings
PF

If this thread belongs in the film forum, sorry for having placed it here...
 
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I've used my Z-6 quite extensively with high-speed film. It's not an ideal combination for outside shooting because you constantly have to stop down all the way, but then it's not the Zorki but the film that is at fault here - if you want to shoot outside in daylight, I'd rather use 100 ASA than 1600 ASA film. If you're stuck with the wrong film, you can still use an ND filter. You have the same problem with practically all leaf shutter cameras.

In Germany I normally shoot at f/11 on sunny days, with leeway towards f/16 with BW film since it tolerates underexposure better than overexposure. But then again that's a matter of taste.

What lab do you use to have BW developed? Most labs can be told to push or pull the film by a stop or two. If you tell them you want to have your Neopan 1600 pulled one stop, you might pay more, but end up with better developed film. Just talk to the lab technician. Large mail-in labs like CeWe will do pull processing on request if you specify that on the paper bag. But then, there is really no reason not to do BW processing yourself. If you have to use a lab and if you want to do outside shooting, then Ilford XP2 is a better choice than Neopan 1600.

Philipp
 
Thanks, rxmd!

I should have asked before I placed the 1600 into the Z6, but I thought max shutter speed and f-16 might come close to sunny f-8 conditions, my math is not the best, though I always use the sunny rule with my Kodak Retina 1a and XP2, which is, of course, a different way than the Z6 experiment I planned. It's good of you to have pointed out that Germany is at sunny f-11 with possibility of f-16 in using bw, I was getting orientation from a man from Holland who claims that Holland is sunny f-8. But what do you think of using the Neopan 1600 and Z6 indoors? I'll have to give it a try, as I do not want to waste the film. I appreciate your recommendations. Btw, the lab I use is associated with Ring Foto.

Greetings
PF
 
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I just slapped a yellow filter on the Industar 50, but that will not do all that much good in the very bright sunlight we're having here this morning. The ND filter would be very welcome, but where do I find one (for that Industar)?

PF
 
Hi,

it's a fine combination, nothing special. The viewfinder tends to be a bit dim, you have to see how it's suitable for low-light focusing; otherwise I don't see why Neopan 1600 should be different from any other film in the Zorki-6 with regards to camera handling. Indoors it does help to have a light meter, though. That would also answer your question about whether Germany is f/8 or f/11.

If you've got the roll of film in there already, need to do some outdoor shooting, are afraid of wasting film and haven't taken any photos yet, why not rewind the film and take it out instead of shooting the whole roll? Take care not to spool it back all the way into the capsule; if you rewind carefully you can feel when it detaches from the takeup spool, then spool on for half a revolution or so of the rewind knob, open the back and take out the film.

Philipp
 
Photoflaneur said:
Hello,
So, I've got the shutter at 500, keeping aperture on f-16 because it's sunny out today. Any ideas how I can have a feast with the Z6 and the Neopan?

...
Bright sun at 1600 ASA is likely to need 1/500 @ f22.
I can't imagine a worse choice of film for a sunny day and I submit the best way to have a "feast " with your Zorki is to wait till it's dark - or make a more sensible choice of film. This would apply to practically any camera.
 
Another possibility is to use 2 cameras, one loaded with high sensitivity film, the other for sunny days.

if both cameras accept the same lenses, even better. If both are exactly the same model, you are dressed for war.

Cheers,
Ruben
 
Depending on if you have the collapsible or the rigid Industar, filters are going to be a little more difficult or very tough to find.
I have an Industar-22(very similar to the collapsible I-50) and have some a36("push on" or "slip on" they are called) sized filters in some of the useful variants for BW film; yellow, orange, and yellow-green. I still need to get red and a ND for this lens. There are a good amount of choices for these from Leica/Leitz made to the FSU made filters.
If yours is the rigid I-50, then filters will be tough as that lens uses a very uncommon size--33mm, I think. In that case I would look for a step up ring to enable the use of larger(and easier to find) filters on the I-50.
If you can find a red filter in the right size, that would require a 2 or 3 stop difference and ought to get you some reasonable exposure times with the Neopan and daylight. But you might not want the effects from the red filter.
I also think the other posters have offered good advise as well.
Best light,
Rob
 
I have often wondered why people use high-speed film outdoors. Even Tri-X, at ISO 400, can tax the limits of most 35mm cameras and lenses. And for a good many years, mechanical shutters were usually slower than most of the 'marked' shutter speeds.

I say this as having long been mostly a color slide person, and I've usually opted for using the LOWEST speed film I can get by with. Plenty of times I've been known to carry two bodies, one with 64-100 film, and the other with faster film (maybe ISO 200) to use with tele lenses. To me, 800-1600-3200 is something for the proverbial black cat in a coal bin. Or at best, night-time shooting.
 
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