High-key images and Henry Wessel

[sirius]

I was watching this lovely video about Henry Wessel and began to wonder how he gets those high-key images with such subtle greys in the highlights. Do you have any suggestions? My highlights tend to block-up and get grainy when I try to bring them down. (I use a Leica M2 with a collapsible summicron and tri-x at 400 or 200, HC-110 at 20C with massive dev chart times, agitating for 5 seconds every 30.)

See the video at: http://www.kqed.org/arts/programs/spark/profile.jsp?essid=17900

thanks...

 

[telenous]

Nice video, thanks for posting.

It's interesting he uses the very exact same gear as Winogrand (Leica, Canon 28mm, TriX) and even edits after a sufficient time has lapsed from the moment of photographing.

On your question, I have only a guess, the way the photos look suggest to me he pulls his TriX one or more stops (which is also a reasonable thing to do under intense Californian light). I am also getting the vague impression of the effect of a filter, maybe yellow? Not sure. The video doesn't show him using one, so maybe pulling his film is sufficient to give a shade of grey on intensely bright skies. His vintage Canon lens is less contrasty than modern 28's, I bet that helps too. I am not sure if his photos we see on the web are scans from prints or negatives, if the former then there's one more variable introduced as he may be printing on softer grade paper. Like I said, just a guess. I like his work.

 

[telenous]

My highlights tend to block-up and get grainy when I try to bring them down. (I use a Leica M2 with a collapsible summicron and tri-x at 400 or 200, HC-110 at 20C with massive dev chart times, agitating for 5 seconds every 30.)

Which dilution do you use? HC110 dil.B is reported to be very active and more difficult to handle (that's my experience too.)

If Wessel follows Winogrand's technique to the tee, then his developer must be D76.

 

[sirius]

Hi, thanks for your comments Telenous. I use dilution B too. I can't say I dislike what it does, but it is pretty contrasty compared to what these photos look like. Would a more diluted solution and longer dev time make for more even tones? Yeah, I think D76 is a tried and true developer. I tend to use HC-110 because I can mix a single one-shot batch and not have to worry about expiration. Maybe I need to rethink that.

 

[telenous]

Hi, thanks for your comments Telenous. I use dilution B too. I can't say I dislike what it does, but it is pretty contrasty compared to what these photos look like. Would a more diluted solution and longer dev time make for more even tones? Yeah, I think D76 is a tried and true developer. I tend to use HC-110 because I can mix a single one-shot batch and not have to worry about expiration. Maybe I need to rethink that.

Dil.H is supposed to be more manageable. Use 1:63 and twice the dil.B time for developing (here's the mass.dev. chart full report http://www.digitaltruth.com/data/hc-110-h.php .) If you have the chance though do give D76 a try, I think it will help with some of the problems you mentioned.

 

[nyx]

preflashing the paper might also help.

 

[mhv]

HC-110 has a tendency to depress midtones. In Photoshop curves terms, it would look as if you took the midpoint and pulled it down. It gives good highlight separation, but darker midtones.

In 35mm, this looks harsh; you usually need 120 format at least to make it look smooth. It's great to get highlight contrast, as in for snow scenes. It's also great to ensure solid black shadows, which is useful for contrasty portraits.

Based on the shadows angle, the photo above looks like midday sun, what is usually considered the worst photographic lighting possible, but Wessel works it to perfection.

Wessel's photos look like pulled Tri-X with D-76 or something of the same ilk. XTOL would work here. Expose at 200 or 100, and develop 20% percent less, at least.

Notice also how good his shadow detail is (right hand side of the photo above, the stairs). Usually a good sign of someone generously exposing the shadows, and taming the highlights with careful development. It's printed for grade 2 paper probably, to give that long tonal scale. I tend to develop for grade 3 to get an extra notch of contrast (Canada ain't as sunny as California!).

Finally, notice how shadows and highlights are used as part of the composition. The shirtless man above looks quite tanned and contrasts strongly with the white wall behind him.

 

[sirius]

Thank-you mhv for your erudite advice. I appreciate it.

I suspect that you are right about how he is using the exposure and development to pull the most out of his photos. He said that he loved the California light and I would expect that would mean he would develop the best approach to using it.

Actually, I was hoping to explore xtol because of it's environmentally friendly finger print. This is another reason.

cheers

---

Telenous, I tried solution H and I liked the results so far. It didn't seem to change my end result, but it was nicer to work with.

PS I quite like the rich tones you get from your photographs on Flickr, especially with the dark contrasty scenes.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/telenous/3647897289/

 

[Todd.Hanz]

concur with the thoughts on Xtol, try a 1:1 dilution or 1:2 maybe.

 

[charjohncarter]

I get all my photo info from KQED. I use HC110h for these types of images. I couldn't find one of a TriX image, but here is one with TMAX400. I shoot Tmax400 at 250 (with HC-110h) and I used an old low contrast lenses. Actually, I think the lens is more important than the rest of it, but HC110h would be next in line (and mhv is right, HC110 is about highlights and shadows, Rodinal is about midtones; does anyone mix them?):

 

[charjohncarter]

Thank-you mhv for your erudite advice. I appreciate it.

I suspect that you are right about how he is using the exposure and development to pull the most out of his photos. He said that he loved the California light and I would expect that would mean he would develop the best approach to using it.

Actually, I was hoping to explore xtol because of it's environmentally friendly finger print. This is another reason.

cheers

---

Telenous, I tried solution H and I liked the results so far. It didn't seem to change my end result, but it was nicer to work with.

PS I quite like the rich tones you get from your photographs on Flickr, especially with the dark contrasty scenes.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/telenous/3647897289/

When you live in Coastal California, you learn to shoot in the mid-day sun. There are just not too many days of overcast here. Good luck.