High speed C-41 film?

[kshapero]

Is there any C-41 film (b+W preferred) over 800?

 

[35mmdelux]

HP-5 & Tri-x can be bumped up to 3200 ISO.

 

[cjm]

I have pushed XP2 to 800 (lab processed) with mixed results. It's VERY contrasty.

Yashica 35 GS:

The only C-41 film I know of over 800 is Fuji Superia 1600. You could convert that to B&W.

 

[maddoc]

There is one Fuji 1600 color negative film (Natura) in 135 available in Japan.

 

[wray]

Here's a shot done with Fuji Superia 1600

 

[SolaresLarrave]

I don't know if you could push any chromogenic film... but you can always buy the Superia 1600, shoot it, develop it and, after scanning it, turn it into B&W.

 

[maddoc]

Portra 400VC pushed to 1600:

Portra400UC pushed to 800ISO:

(All self-developed with Naniwa Colorkit N)

 

[maddoc]

I don't know if you could push any chromogenic film... but you can always buy the Superia 1600, shoot it, develop it and, after scanning it, turn it into B&W.

I have pushed XP2 to 1600ISO but didn't like the "grain", looks quite muddy... 😱

 

[jbf]

Portra 400VC pushed to 1600:

Portra400UC pushed to 800ISO:

(All self-developed with Naniwa Colorkit N)

These looks quite nice. Really makes me want to try pushing these films. You mention you self develop C41... isnt that a bit of a hassel? How hard is it to stay precise with temps?

 

[maddoc]

Self-developing of C41 is not more difficult than BW, from my experience. The Naniwa Colorkit N has a combined bleach/fix bath (BLIX), so only two bathes in the whole process. Usually, I develop at 30 degrees Celsius, which is easy to maintain in a kitchen-sink or for pushing at 38 degrees. I try keeping temperatures within +/- 1 degree, times as exact as possible.

The only drawback is the short shell life-time of the developer, working solution has to be used within 10 days .... (1 liter are good for up to 16 rolls 135-36, if I remember correctly)

 

[David Murphy]

The grain gets pretty serious on C41's that I've used starting at about ISO 800. Exposure also becomes noticeably little less tolerant to error. I'd recommend fast C41 for artistic effect, or perhaps low-light concert type work, night street work, and maybe astrophotography, but not something like advertising, interiors, landscapes, portraits, or anything really requiring a lot of good detail.

 

[Chris101]

Here's a shot done with Fuji Superia 1600 ...

I think I have a roll of that ... somewhere! It looks good Ray. I should shoot it before my color vision goes out completely!

 

[amateriat]

In terms of true high-speed/low-light shooting and self-development, this really looks like a job for conventional b/w film (and I say this as someone with a strong affinity for XP2). Chromogenics are generally great, but there are limitations, and pushing is one of 'em. With conventional b/w there's a veritable galaxy of options.


- Barrett

 

[David Murphy]

In terms of true high-speed/low-light shooting and self-development, this really looks like a job for conventional b/w film (and I say this as someone with a strong affinity for XP2). Chromogenics are generally great, but there are limitations, and pushing is one of 'em. With conventional b/w there's a veritable galaxy of options.


- Barrett

Yes I agree. Low light situations are an area where color film really feels its limitations. In general black and white tolerates faster emulsion or push processing better and also has amazing exposure latitude that's handy in extreme lighting environments. I personally like color up to about ISO 400, although I occasionally shoot ISO 800 for fun. The pushed Porta 400 above looks rather promising however - I need to try this.

 

[infrequent]

provia 400x pushes nicely...if c41 is not a requirement.

 

[kshapero]

Is fuji neopan 1600 b+w a C-41 film?

 

[infrequent]

@kshapero - nope. its a traditional b&w film.

 

[kshapero]

So it looks like if I want a C-41 film then Fujicolor 1600 is the fastest. eh?