Home-brew fixer?

[Ducky]

Just curious, I know about caffenol, urine etc.. They all say "fix as usual". Is there a home-brew fixer formula anywhere?

 

[rogue_designer]

http://www.jackspcs.com/fixer.htm

Looks like you'll need to still source some chemistry. Ammonium thiosulfate or similar.

Photographers Forumulary probably has information and chemistry available too.
http://www.photoformulary.com/DesktopDefault.aspx

 

[charjohncarter]

I spend more on fixer than I do on developers. But then again I use orderless fixer. Anyone know of a less expensive alternative?

 

[gb hill]

Urine?...that's a new one on me. I don't think I'll be trying that one.

 

[titrisol]

Pool supply stores (used to) sell sodium thiosulphate in 50 lb bags as "Chlorine reducer" it ended up costing less that $0.25/lb
Can't go any cheaper than that

I spend more on fixer than I do on developers. But then again I use orderless fixer. Anyone know of a less expensive alternative?

 

[Al Kaplan]

If you have a permanent darkroom set up and keep a big deep tub going with several gallons of print fixer get a second tub the same size and shape. When you get through printing float the second tub on the fixer. It'll cover like 95% of the surface and it really helps control the odor in the darkroom.

If you're just making a few prints and know you'll be making more later take your stop bath tray and float it on your print developer. Keeping the air from contacting the developer will keep it fresh. Back in the days of sheet film and 3.5 gallon tanks of developer and fixer the tank manufacturers used to sell floating lids.

 

[charjohncarter]

titrisol, thanks for the tip. I might give it a try. but is it odorless?

 

[titrisol]

Sodium Thio (Hyposulphite) is an old-school fixer.

It is NOT rapid, and after a while it smells a little bit like Sulphur when is in acid enviroenmtn.

The best recipe is probably TF-2 (alkaline fixer) Used with a water stop-bath then it will not smell.

TF-2 Alkaline Sodium Thiosulfate Fixer

TF-2 is for users who are determined to use sodium thiosulfate rather than ammonium thiosulfate and who would like a formula superior to the traditional acid hypo fixers. TF-2 will wash out of negative and print materials more rapidly than will an acid fixer.

STOCK SOLUTION
Chemical Amount Units
Distilled water 1000 ml
Sodium Thiosulfate 250 g ***
Sodium Sulfite (anhy) 15 g
Sodium Metaborate 10 g
Distilled water to make 1000 ml
*** I think this is hydrated version (the one that will come from the pool supplies) if the thiosulfate in dehydrated 160g are needed


USAGE
Fix the film for three times the clearing time, usually 3 to 5 minutes. Follow with a two minute wash in running water for film. A hypo clearing agent is not required. Prints should be rinsed for at least 30 minutes in running water.

titrisol, thanks for the tip. I might give it a try. but is it odorless?

 

[payasam]

I used to rather like the smell of what was called hyposulphite of soda.

 

[vieri]

titrisol, thanks for the tip. I might give it a try. but is it odorless?

Did you try FP-4?

 

[Freakscene]

And if you use a thiosulfate fixer, remember that it doesn't fix silver iodide well, which is common in modern films and papers.

Marty

 

[MartinP]

If you're just making a few prints and know you'll be making more later take your stop bath tray and float it on your print developer. Keeping the air from contacting the developer will keep it fresh. Back in the days of sheet film and 3.5 gallon tanks of developer and fixer the tank manufacturers used to sell floating lids.

A couple of times I have used clingfilm as an alternative 'lid' for the dev tray. I must admit that I never did any real tests as to whether this extended the developer life much, or not - but it didn't do any harm (apparently).

EDIT: Just to clarify, I mean with the clingfilm in contact with the surface of the liquid all over, then 'clinging' to the sides of the tray.