mwoenv
Well-known
If your Part C is purple, it is oxidized and your developer will not be good. I don't know what effect this causes.
I've used Unicolor 1-liter powder kits as well (developer, blix, stabilizer) and will continue to use them. The only modification is to add 1/2 teaspoon PhotoFlo concentrate to 1-liter of stabilizer, and repeat every 8 rolls, to avoid water drying marks. Develops 20 rolls as long as they're all developed in a few days to a week.
I've used Unicolor 1-liter powder kits as well (developer, blix, stabilizer) and will continue to use them. The only modification is to add 1/2 teaspoon PhotoFlo concentrate to 1-liter of stabilizer, and repeat every 8 rolls, to avoid water drying marks. Develops 20 rolls as long as they're all developed in a few days to a week.
horsemilk
Member
OP here again with an update. Thank you to everyone who offered advice. In the end I decided to try again at a lower temp / longer dev to reduce the margin of error. I developed at 25C for 21 minutes, I did two canisters of film and both turned out satisfactory this time. See an example here:
I left the chemicals in the warm band, and a couple of hours later I then did another canister of 4x5 Portra 400, loaded on a Mod54. Although the water had cooled I warmed it back up to working temp with some boiling water and left it for 30 minutes to settle. Unfortunately this didn't go so well, there was a definite cyan shift with this batch.
I'm really not sure if I did something wrong - either the chemicals weren't up to temp or I agitated too much or too little. With the Mod54 holder I didn't want to dislodge the film sheets by inverting the tank a whole lot, so I just turned the agitation spool every 30 seconds. I'm not sure if this counts as agitating more or less. Anyway, you can see the results here:
Aside from the cyan shift, there is another obvious problem; on this sheet there is a large smear in the emulsion. I think this is because this sheet was improperly loaded and was touching another sheet, although it could also be because it fell on the floor while it was drying. It's disappointing because I really liked this particular frame, can anyone tell me if I can get rid of this by re-bleaching or fixing this sheet?
I left the chemicals in the warm band, and a couple of hours later I then did another canister of 4x5 Portra 400, loaded on a Mod54. Although the water had cooled I warmed it back up to working temp with some boiling water and left it for 30 minutes to settle. Unfortunately this didn't go so well, there was a definite cyan shift with this batch.
I'm really not sure if I did something wrong - either the chemicals weren't up to temp or I agitated too much or too little. With the Mod54 holder I didn't want to dislodge the film sheets by inverting the tank a whole lot, so I just turned the agitation spool every 30 seconds. I'm not sure if this counts as agitating more or less. Anyway, you can see the results here:
Aside from the cyan shift, there is another obvious problem; on this sheet there is a large smear in the emulsion. I think this is because this sheet was improperly loaded and was touching another sheet, although it could also be because it fell on the floor while it was drying. It's disappointing because I really liked this particular frame, can anyone tell me if I can get rid of this by re-bleaching or fixing this sheet?
Fotohuis
Well-known
Any deviation of the Kodak standard 100F/37,8C will give a color cast, even with this Fuji Hunt minilab kit. It has to do with the balance of the color couplers.
I do not have any experience with that MOD54, only Jobo 25xx tanks in rotary on a Jobo CPA-2 with elevator. the best way for developing in C-41 and E-6, with sheet film 2523 tanks and 2509N 9x12cm/4x5" sheet film reel or the 30xx Expert drums. I never had any issue.
I do not have any experience with that MOD54, only Jobo 25xx tanks in rotary on a Jobo CPA-2 with elevator. the best way for developing in C-41 and E-6, with sheet film 2523 tanks and 2509N 9x12cm/4x5" sheet film reel or the 30xx Expert drums. I never had any issue.
Fraser
Well-known
I've had funny colours with the digibase before and found that the chemicals once mixed only keep for about a week. Keep it simple stick with the instructions the pre soak is only so the developer doesn't cool down too quickly so I think 30mins is a bit much. I found the tetenal kit to be a bit more consistent than the digibase one.
Good luck.
Good luck.