venchka
Veteran
All the bases have been covered above. A few thoughts on how I do 4x5.
1. Tray development presupposes a darkroom. A space dark enough for film is a luxury I do not have. While the bathroom in my apartment can eventually be made dark enough for film handling, I had to wait until it was dark outside. That meant 9pm or so in the summer. My solution: A Jumbo Harrison changing tent. An anywhere, anytime portable darkroom large enough to handle film of any size. Now I can handle film anytime of the day or night. And watch TV too.
2. Where to put the film for development? I have two motorized rotating bases from Unicolor & Besseler. I use either a Jobo 2551/2553 tank and reels for film from 35mm to 4x5. The two tanks & reels are the same. The different numbers refer to Jobo drive systems that won't matter for a simple roller base. For 4x5 only, and the best tank ever, I have a Jobo Expert 3010. It holds 10 sheets of 4x5 film. It is super easy to load film in the changing tent. I consider it essential for my non-darkroom situation.
3. Are you sure that the V500 will scan sheet film? I know that the V700/V750 twins will scan 4x5 and 8x10. I'm not positive that the V500/V600 will even scan 4x5.
4. Never ever worry about the expense of developer. It is the least expensive component in any film processing system. I use Xtol 1:3, which is much more economical than many developers on a developer/film basis, and I always use more Xtol than Kodak says I need.
5. Simple garment hangers with built in clips on the shower rod in the bathroom work for pairs of 4x5 film. I hang for 12 hours minimum after a 4 hour hang time disaster.
6. GOOD tripod & STURDY head. That doesn't always mean expensive. Especially if you shop used. Don't overlook wood tripods.
Come back with any questions. Good luck.
Wayne
1. Tray development presupposes a darkroom. A space dark enough for film is a luxury I do not have. While the bathroom in my apartment can eventually be made dark enough for film handling, I had to wait until it was dark outside. That meant 9pm or so in the summer. My solution: A Jumbo Harrison changing tent. An anywhere, anytime portable darkroom large enough to handle film of any size. Now I can handle film anytime of the day or night. And watch TV too.
2. Where to put the film for development? I have two motorized rotating bases from Unicolor & Besseler. I use either a Jobo 2551/2553 tank and reels for film from 35mm to 4x5. The two tanks & reels are the same. The different numbers refer to Jobo drive systems that won't matter for a simple roller base. For 4x5 only, and the best tank ever, I have a Jobo Expert 3010. It holds 10 sheets of 4x5 film. It is super easy to load film in the changing tent. I consider it essential for my non-darkroom situation.
3. Are you sure that the V500 will scan sheet film? I know that the V700/V750 twins will scan 4x5 and 8x10. I'm not positive that the V500/V600 will even scan 4x5.
4. Never ever worry about the expense of developer. It is the least expensive component in any film processing system. I use Xtol 1:3, which is much more economical than many developers on a developer/film basis, and I always use more Xtol than Kodak says I need.
5. Simple garment hangers with built in clips on the shower rod in the bathroom work for pairs of 4x5 film. I hang for 12 hours minimum after a 4 hour hang time disaster.
6. GOOD tripod & STURDY head. That doesn't always mean expensive. Especially if you shop used. Don't overlook wood tripods.
Come back with any questions. Good luck.
Wayne
mgilbuena
San Francisco Bay Area
No - the V500 will not scan sheet film; I will need to upgrade to a higher-end model.
Great knowledge sharing in this thread. I'll toss out another question: with what camera did you cut your large format negative teeth? The Speed Graphic may be a good first camera to learn upon -- or maybe a modern Toyo?
If your subject are portraits, is there a B&W film of choice? With smaller maximum apertures from Medium Format, would a higher-speed film (tri-x?) be advised for natural lighting / indoor portraits with natural light sources?
Lastly, any tips in working with the model? From my understanding, once the film is put into place, one no longer is able to see through the camera. Thus, how is an effective bond forged between the camera and subject while the photographer is standing aside, waiting for that perfect moment?
Great knowledge sharing in this thread. I'll toss out another question: with what camera did you cut your large format negative teeth? The Speed Graphic may be a good first camera to learn upon -- or maybe a modern Toyo?
If your subject are portraits, is there a B&W film of choice? With smaller maximum apertures from Medium Format, would a higher-speed film (tri-x?) be advised for natural lighting / indoor portraits with natural light sources?
Lastly, any tips in working with the model? From my understanding, once the film is put into place, one no longer is able to see through the camera. Thus, how is an effective bond forged between the camera and subject while the photographer is standing aside, waiting for that perfect moment?
venchka
Veteran
New T-max 400. Grain? What grain?
My favorites are Ilford HP5+ & Tri-X Professional 320.
For those portraits, they make Pentax 6x7s and Hasselblads.
Wayne
My favorites are Ilford HP5+ & Tri-X Professional 320.
For those portraits, they make Pentax 6x7s and Hasselblads.
Wayne
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Yes, faster film: ISO 400, overexposed (EI 200-320, depending on metering).
Camera: for portraits, not important. If you want realistic movements, forget Speed Graphics.
Cheers,
R.
Camera: for portraits, not important. If you want realistic movements, forget Speed Graphics.
Cheers,
R.
enero
Killer of Threads
in terms of 4x5 development at home:
If you want to try developing at home and you dont have the space or money to have an actual darkroom set up or motorized alternatives, you can look into MOD54 4x5 sheet holder that can fit into a Paterson 3 Reel tank. Ive never tried it myself. Seems like a love it or hate it kind of thing. It can hold 6 sheets. Not sure how many you can successfully develop tho
There are also other options that you can look into on ebay (since no one really makes tanks for large format anymore), the most popular and (from what I hear) most reliable is the Jobo 2521 MultiTank 2 w/ retainer panels. I think it holds 4 sheets. Its expensive at about $140-200US used. but no more then any other reliable tank option out there. The other tank that I hear good things about is an old Nikkor stainless steel developing take for 4x5 (cant remember the model), it can old 6 sheets, I believe. but those dont come up on ebay much, and when they do, they usually go for over $200US.
Personally, I think if you want to move on this and not spend a lot of time thinking about it, try the MOD54 and see how it goes.
If you want to try developing at home and you dont have the space or money to have an actual darkroom set up or motorized alternatives, you can look into MOD54 4x5 sheet holder that can fit into a Paterson 3 Reel tank. Ive never tried it myself. Seems like a love it or hate it kind of thing. It can hold 6 sheets. Not sure how many you can successfully develop tho
There are also other options that you can look into on ebay (since no one really makes tanks for large format anymore), the most popular and (from what I hear) most reliable is the Jobo 2521 MultiTank 2 w/ retainer panels. I think it holds 4 sheets. Its expensive at about $140-200US used. but no more then any other reliable tank option out there. The other tank that I hear good things about is an old Nikkor stainless steel developing take for 4x5 (cant remember the model), it can old 6 sheets, I believe. but those dont come up on ebay much, and when they do, they usually go for over $200US.
Personally, I think if you want to move on this and not spend a lot of time thinking about it, try the MOD54 and see how it goes.
Nokton48
Veteran
I'll toss out another question: with what camera did you cut your large format negative teeth? The Speed Graphic may be a good first camera to learn upon -- or maybe a modern Toyo? /QUOTE]
Investigate the "Sinar Norma". If you shop carefully, you could have the camera that on permanent display in The Museum of Modern Art (as an Industrial Design Object) and was used by Ansel Adams, Richard Avedon, Ezra Stoller, and me
With large format, the faster the ISO, the better, as far as I am concerned.
Large format portraiture is a powerful experience and much more fun and much more "photo buzz" than smaller formats. It is a completely different experience for the photographer, and sitter as well.
mgilbuena
San Francisco Bay Area
What a BEAUTIFUL camera! And so much passion on this thread! Thank you!
Knowing myself, I'll probably move toward tray processing eventually, but using the tubes as recommended to get started is a great idea.
Now to start shopping.. Any tripod suggestions?
venchka
Veteran
Tripod. My assortment.
Zone VI Lightweight. I got mine along with a matching Zone VI 4x5 camera deal. Solid. Impervious to water, sand, etc. My river tripod.
Gitzo System 3 carbon fiber. 'Nuff said.
Bogen/Manfrotto 3021 short. Nice small tripod. Alas, it only extends to about waist high. Ample support for 4x5.
The head: More important than the legs. Any decent set of legs will support a 4x5 camera. The head is critical. Don't buy a ball head for a sheet film camera. Manfrotto makes a series of geared 3-way heads that work well.
You haven't said anything about about lenses. Start with one. In a year or more go looking for a second lens. When lens shopping, pay particular attention to field of coverage. Large image circle is what you want. Camera movements are useless if you run out of image circle. Don't fret over technical specs. the way many around here do regarding lenses for tiny formats. There aren't any bad view camera lenses. Condition can ruin them of course. Shutters are problematic on older lenses, but most of them can be fixed. I own lenses from 1907, 1953 and the 1980s & 1990s. All are plenty sharp. Fujis & Nikons are just as good in view camera optics as they are in medium & small formats.
Something in the 150-210 range with ample image circles to start would be fine. Also pay attention to camera bellows travel and focal length. These lenses are not telephoto formulas (there are a few exceptions). A 250mm lens requires 250mm from film plane to aperture to focus at infinity. More travel for portraits. Most press cameras are limited in this regard.
Post-war Kodak Ektar lenses are fantastic. Pre & post-war Tessars in longish focal lengths are great for portraits.
Ken Lee has a lot of inspirational help online. Visit every page. The photos and technical help are priceless.
http://www.kenleegallery.com/index.php
Wayne
Zone VI Lightweight. I got mine along with a matching Zone VI 4x5 camera deal. Solid. Impervious to water, sand, etc. My river tripod.
Gitzo System 3 carbon fiber. 'Nuff said.
Bogen/Manfrotto 3021 short. Nice small tripod. Alas, it only extends to about waist high. Ample support for 4x5.
The head: More important than the legs. Any decent set of legs will support a 4x5 camera. The head is critical. Don't buy a ball head for a sheet film camera. Manfrotto makes a series of geared 3-way heads that work well.
You haven't said anything about about lenses. Start with one. In a year or more go looking for a second lens. When lens shopping, pay particular attention to field of coverage. Large image circle is what you want. Camera movements are useless if you run out of image circle. Don't fret over technical specs. the way many around here do regarding lenses for tiny formats. There aren't any bad view camera lenses. Condition can ruin them of course. Shutters are problematic on older lenses, but most of them can be fixed. I own lenses from 1907, 1953 and the 1980s & 1990s. All are plenty sharp. Fujis & Nikons are just as good in view camera optics as they are in medium & small formats.
Something in the 150-210 range with ample image circles to start would be fine. Also pay attention to camera bellows travel and focal length. These lenses are not telephoto formulas (there are a few exceptions). A 250mm lens requires 250mm from film plane to aperture to focus at infinity. More travel for portraits. Most press cameras are limited in this regard.
Post-war Kodak Ektar lenses are fantastic. Pre & post-war Tessars in longish focal lengths are great for portraits.
Ken Lee has a lot of inspirational help online. Visit every page. The photos and technical help are priceless.
http://www.kenleegallery.com/index.php
Wayne
venchka
Veteran
This would be a great way to begin exploring 8x10.
http://www.finefocusworkshops.com/view.html?I1.x=143&I1.y=12
Wayne
http://www.finefocusworkshops.com/view.html?I1.x=143&I1.y=12
Wayne