Homemade 4x5

I especially admire the screw-head infinity stops, brilliant idea.

That was pretty good wasn't it? At first I was thinking of wood blocks but that wouldn't be adjustable. On the next delux version, those wood screws may become machine screws, and adjustable through the back of the camera.
 
Nicely done, Frank. I am still "scared" of trying 4x5 film loading. My Linhof just sits there.
 
Don't be "scared" Reid. Just use photo paper as a negative. Try Freestyle Arista grade 2 simi matt RC paper. Get 25 sheets of 8X10 and cut four 3.9X4.9 inch from each sheet. Try ISO 6 and dilute the standard paper developer to 1/4 normal strength to help control contrast, stop, fix, wash and dry as usual. Contact print for a positive or scan and invert.

The whole process can be carried out under red safe light.
 
Don't be "scared" Reid. Just use photo paper as a negative. Try Freestyle Arista grade 2 simi matt RC paper. Get 25 sheets of 8X10 and cut four 3.9X4.9 inch from each sheet. Try ISO 6 and dilute the standard paper developer to 1/4 normal strength to help control contrast, stop, fix, wash and dry as usual. Contact print for a positive or scan and invert.

The whole process can be carried out under red safe light.

That is a good suggestion to practice and develop some skills before shelling out for true film, thanks!


Frank,

really like the job you did and might consider building one myself someday soon!

I'd be interested in alternate suggestions for the back, since finding a springloaded back in the EU almost instantly means paying big(ger) bucks...
 
Johan, without the Graflok (or spring back) I don't think I would have built this. I'm sure it can be done but it will be difficult. The scavenged back provides the proper registration of the groundglass and film plane, and the light tightness between the film holder and the camera body. The rest of the build would be simple compared to these considerations, which a scavenged back takes care of.
 
First neg. have to determine if the heavier density on the sides are due to light leak or uneven development.

I'm willing to bet lunch that's a light leak.
That is the most difficult part to chase in DIY projects like this.
A polaroid back is especially handy if you can borrow one.
 
Ive decided to pretty it up by filling exterior screw heads with plaster. Then I'll sand it and repaint.
 
Don't be "scared" Reid. Just use photo paper as a negative. Try Freestyle Arista grade 2 simi matt RC paper. Get 25 sheets of 8X10 and cut four 3.9X4.9 inch from each sheet. Try ISO 6 and dilute the standard paper developer to 1/4 normal strength to help control contrast, stop, fix, wash and dry as usual. Contact print for a positive or scan and invert.

The whole process can be carried out under red safe light.

Using photo paper is a great idea. One of these days I'm going to try this, too:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/756607-REG/Ilford_1165258_Harman_Direct_Positive_Fiber.html

Direct positive fiber based paper!
 
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