How about Lynx ?

For me the Lynx 1000 could be an ideal shooter. Unfortunately I purchased some 3 or 4 samples, all with the same problem: stiff focusing ring. I have tryied to dis-assemble, or in fact disassembled the lens but couldn't reach the focusing thread. Solvents didn't helped as well.

Cheers,
Ruben
 
Oh Ruben, sorry to hear about your 1000's. Have you taken off whole lens assembly ? At least on S2 one can access focus "thread" from backside.
 
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ruben said:
For me the Lynx 1000 could be an ideal shooter. Unfortunately I purchased some 3 or 4 samples, all with the same problem: stiff focusing ring. I have tryied to dis-assemble, or in fact disassembled the lens but couldn't reach the focusing thread. Solvents didn't helped as well.

Cheers,
Ruben

I didn't have a problem with stiff focusing on the one I had, but it did have a dead selenium cell. The guys on the Classic Camera Repair Forum said it couldn't be replaced, so I sold it long ago and got a 5000e. I wish I hadn't because what they told me is apparently not true.
 
Well, then, as always

IS ANYONE INTERESTED IN FIXING ONE OR TWO LYNX 1000 WITH STIFF FOCUSING, IN EXCHANGE OF MY FIXING OF ONE OR TWO KIEVS ?

Cheers,
Ruben
 
had one for years

had one for years

Bought a 5000e in 1970, when i was 14.

It was so great i have run many films through it, but sometime in the mid 1980's the shutter broke down.
In the mean time i moved to a Canon SLR, thinking SLR's were the only way to go.

I still have this fantastic kamera an now that i have become more interested in RF-photo i am thinking about trying to repair the shutter.
 
pinafore2, wish you succeed fixing your 5000e ! shouldn't be too hard, if you proceed slowly and don't take desperate means. Does shutter leafs stay closed or something serious ?
 
thanks btgc

thanks btgc

Unfortunately i think the shutterleafves have fallen apart, but i remember having seen a homepage somewhere with at guide for repairing leaf-shutters in general and Lynx-shutters in particular. It must be possible to find it again.
 
btw, today Lynx 14e, said to nice and working, on European e-site went off for us$175 equivalent. Go figure. I'm happy I got 5000 for us$10.
 
That's just insane.

Mine were under $50, two of them $25 and under. I guess if you want something bad enough and do not have patience, prices go up. Kind of like the Wii.
 
How to say....this were first 14e I saw for almost year of Baywatch. I mean local one, not US. Getting one from US means I should go for lower priced samples not to pay VAT and import taxes, which altogether with customs broker fee can be about half of total price w/ shipping.
 
I understand about the temptation issue! I bought FOUR lenses for the Contax this week. All 50mm. They were at great prices, and three need a little TLC. The hard part will be selling any of them. IF I sell any of them...

My Lynx 14e's all needed some TLC- the latest required the electrical connections to the battery compartment be cleaned out for the meter to work. The one before that needed soldering. All required the VF/RF to be cleaned.

For that price, expect a perfectly working camera. They are really nice. The meter is very useful, the "glowing arrows" work well. My only complaint is that both arrows turn OFF to indicate proper exposure rather than both turning ON. So you have to get a good fell for pressing the meter switch.

You might try posting want-to-buy ads. Some of us accumulate too many cameras. If I see a WTB or a "My favorite camera just died", we felt guilted into giving a camera a better home. That is why I sold my prior Lynx 14e.
 
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Yeah Brian, I know I know....probably most of us here own too much gear, though if one fixes gear herself (even if it's soldering back corroded wire), I call this "therapy" instead of blaming for GAS. At the end keeping old stuff running we do good for planet too 🙂
When I will recess from previous buys, I'll consider idea of ad here. Thanks for idea.
 
Does the shutter cock?

This can have several reasons- the rewind "clutch" might be stuck, or gears could be torn. It is "jammed". Can be a simple fix to getting the rewind mechanism to work again, or could be a major issue.
 
I remember warning on Yashica Guy's website that Lynx are prone to proper rewinding. Hope this is not the case.
 
Woohoo, just inspected 14 which arrived today and were bought blindly AS IS ! It cocks and fires shutter, aperture works and even meter needle moves ! Lens seems to be OK just some dust on front element, RF seems to be spot on and lens rim is veeery slightly touched, not usual dent, though. It hasn't lens cap, everready case is in bad shape, and....need to do usual work on it and put through some film ! Oh sweet Lynxes 🙂

NickTrop - btw, everready case from mine Electro don't fit Lynx 14 - dimensions are same, though tripod socket is in different position - not too far, though, maybe 5mm, but enough to make difference. So I'll fix 14's case for a while, maybe get another.

UPD: My soldering skills are awful, though I managed to put Schottky 1N5711 into Lynx 5000 (Holy Coating, those old wires are pain to work on !!!) and tested with wrong, though new LR44 battery (silver oxydes is on way). Mhm, reading pointing to uniformly painted wall is same I get from SLR and handheld light meter. Not so fine outdoors....seems I should start thinking in terms of exposure not fully relying on automatics 🙂
 
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Strange thing with my Lynx 14 - speed and aperture rings aren't coupled ! Manual says they are, but in mine changing speed don't make impact on aperture setting. Lens barrel otherwise seems good, there's no vertical play on control rings. Is anyone aware of this ? Not that I miss this feature hardly, but always good to know what's going on.
Another observation - when on Bulb, shutter opens with slightly different sound...but no, I can't describe...like short whistle ? Ah, on Bulb stutter stays opened and timer/closing sound don't obscure this specific sound on shutter opening....hope it will run yet 🙂

BTW - what letter "R" on Lynx 14 DOF scale (right side) stands for ? It's between 2.8 and 8. Manual doesn't list this...
 
Hi btgc. The rings aren't coupled as such but are set up so that you can grasp both at once and move them together which works as though they are coupled. The "R" is the focus marker if you use infrared film. You focus normally, read the distance and then move that distance to line up with the "R". 🙂
Regards.
 
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