How could this happen?

traveller

Learning how to print
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Dec 25, 2005
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Southern Germany
I started RF not so long ago with a Bessa R. And what happened? Now I'm owning lenses about my age or older and because I want to use the J 12 the Zorki 6 is in the mail. The Zorki 6 is not even here and I'm thinking of a Zorki 4 K for comparison :bang:

So, as it seems impossible to get a cure, has anyone got some tips what I shouldn't do with the Zorki 6? I could find many infos about what can be done but as it is my first russian I just want to be cautious. And if someone could mail me a 1:1 drawing of a film leader cutting template that would be great.

Thank you
John
 
Well, it's probably not the best choice for flash photography...

You do not need any special leader for the Zorki 6, or the 4K. The 6 is quite a "modern" camera in some ways. If you really want film loading excitement from a FSU camera you want a Zorki 1 or Fed 1.
 
Shouldn't need to cut a film leader with the Zorki 6. That's only necessary with a bottom loader, like the Zorki/FED 1 or the old Barnack Leica's. The 6 has a hinged back. The only FSU RF to do so, in fact.
 
What not to do? I wouldn't try sports photography with any rangefinder. But then I wouldn't do it at all, but rangefinders just aren't the right sort of gear for it.
 
traveller said:
I started RF not so long ago with a Bessa R. And what happened? Now I'm owning lenses about my age or older and because I want to use the J 12 the Zorki 6 is in the mail. The Zorki 6 is not even here and I'm thinking of a Zorki 4 K for comparison :bang:

So, as it seems impossible to get a cure, has anyone got some tips what I shouldn't do with the Zorki 6? I could find many infos about what can be done but as it is my first russian I just want to be cautious. And if someone could mail me a 1:1 drawing of a film leader cutting template that would be great.

Thank you
John

The Zorki 6 has the advantadge of a hinged back door, no bottom or bottom/back plates lying around while loading film 🙂

As a rule of thumb, many FSU 35mm cameras don't take well changing shutter speeds before the shutter has been cocked (and film advanced), I guess Hammurabi already had it wrote in his stone rules, FSU camera, FIRST wind, then change speeds 🙂

And now if you want some camera porn... 😉

http://www.geocities.com/fzorkis/zorki_6.html
http://www.geocities.com/fzorkis/3opkuu.html
 
lushd said:
What not to do? I wouldn't try sports photography with any rangefinder.

Why not? Photographers did sports with RF cameras for many years and did it well. Don't underestimate the rangefinder camera. In fact, for fast moving events it actually has some advantages over an SLR. There's no lag-time when you trip the shutter because there's no mirror to get out of the way. It's easier to follow action in the viewfinder and continue your "swing" because the image doesn't disappear.

The "trick" to good sports photography is anticipation. You anticipate the action point and pre-focus. Trying to focus while the action goes on is difficult at best so you focus for a zone using your depth of field. Within that "zone" all you have to do is frame and shoot. If you've ever wondered how the old pros using 4x5 Speed Graphics and the like managed to take such wonderful pictures, that's how they did it.

Don't sell your RF short. 🙂

Walker
 
taffer said:
As a rule of thumb, many FSU 35mm cameras don't take well changing shutter speeds before the shutter has been cocked (and film advanced), I guess Hammurabi already had it wrote in his stone rules, FSU camera, FIRST wind, then change speeds 🙂

Even here, the Zorki 6 is the modernistic oddball--you can change speed before or after you cock the shutter (although it never hurts to be sure, or to get into the habit for your later FSU acquisitions). Just make sure the shutter is *fully* cocked before you fire. I find it easier to double-pump rather than try to push the lever through the whole long stroke at once. Oh, and don't confuse the rewind button, which is where you'd expect the shutter button to be, with the shutter button, which is at the center of the film counter dial.
 
doubs43 said:
Why not? Photographers did sports with RF cameras for many years and did it well. Don't underestimate the rangefinder camera. In fact, for fast moving events it actually has some advantages over an SLR. There's no lag-time when you trip the shutter because there's no mirror to get out of the way. It's easier to follow action in the viewfinder and continue your "swing" because the image doesn't disappear.

The "trick" to good sports photography is anticipation. You anticipate the action point and pre-focus. Trying to focus while the action goes on is difficult at best so you focus for a zone using your depth of field. Within that "zone" all you have to do is frame and shoot. If you've ever wondered how the old pros using 4x5 Speed Graphics and the like managed to take such wonderful pictures, that's how they did it.

Don't sell your RF short. 🙂

Walker


I've shot sports with my Kiev, and it's not impossible...it's just a PITA. Good sports shots need long glass (especially when access is restricted or it's a large field like soccer), and no 35mm rangefinder camera ever made will be up to contemporary professional standards in that reguard. Try shooting nighttime soccer professionally with a 90mm lens. Is it possible? Yes, but you'll miss way too many shots that way. That's why they make 400mm lenses.

As for focusing, it's easier to confirm focus with an SLR in a hurry...all you do is look throught the finder, and if the screen is blurry, you're off. Modern AF is also a wonder for such work, especially with a high-level camera and "pro" lenses.

Viewfinder blackout isn't a huge problem if you remember a little bit about physics, like things keep moving until they hit something else usually.

When I shoot sports, I don't shoot off 10 frames at a time like some people. I was raised on film, and I never had that kind of money, so I learned to anticipate. I do however like to not have to take the camera away from my face so I can crank the advance every shot, so motor drives are good for that. Except for the late Leicas, there really aren't any available for rangefinders. "Trigger winders" are nice right up until you have to refocus, then you're worse off than you were to begin with because you have to let go of the camera, move your hand, and then move it back.

I'd take an SLR any day for that work.

Now rangefinders do have their place, but there's a reason why the Nikon F sold almost 900,000 copies, even though it did cost more than most people made in a month at the time. Rangefinders were used for sports photography because they were the best tools available for the job at the time. When the Nikon F came out, it was the best tool for the job.

I'm not trying to start an anti-RF war on RFF, just stating some facts.

Have a nice night,
Bob Clark
 
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traveller said:
:cool:, but you are tempting me to start something........
Sorry, dude... but you're already there, firmly planted on the Slippery Slope.

Sports-wise with an RF, I probably wouldn't try to shoot to the middle of a soccer field, but for track & field, basketball, cross-country running or skiing, football (along the sidelines) and others where a 50mm or 90mm could be used on closer subjects, I'd mount a very bright aux. finder and anticipate, as stated above and have some fun. I shot for newspaper and yearbook for three years of high school doing just that with an RF & TLR and got some great shots. But, OTOH, you've noticed there aren't that many sports shots on RFF...

The only thing I probably wouldn't try with an FSU.RF is underwater photography. Swimming with a Zorki would be like hanging a cement block tied to a boat anchor around your neck... just not good RF safety. :angel:

Enjoy the 6!!
 
Sport shots with a rf camera

Sport shots with a rf camera

CVBLZ4 said:
Sports-wise with an RF, I probably wouldn't try to shoot to the middle of a soccer field, but for track & field, basketball, cross-country running or skiing, football (along the sidelines) and others where a 50mm or 90mm could be used on closer subjects, I'd mount a very bright aux. finder and anticipate, as stated above and have some fun. I shot for newspaper and yearbook for three years of high school doing just that with an RF & TLR and got some great shots. But, OTOH, you've noticed there aren't that many sports shots on RFF...
Enjoy the 6!!
OK, here is my sport shot with a rf. I don't remember which one, probably M3, and a 135/f3.5 Canon lens. It just takes a little anticipation and some wait-a-bit for the right shot. 😎

Anybody else got one to show?
Paul C.
 
CVBLZ4 said:
Sorry, dude... but you're already there, firmly planted on the Slippery Slope.

That's what I feared and nobody worries about developing a antidote as the are not enough us 😀

About sports, I'll see. Just a few meters from where I live is a artificial wildwater,a good place to see even worldcup or european cup kayak races. Best of all, there is no problem to get near enough. Otherwise, when a long lens is needed I prefer my SLR.

I thank you all for the comments and be sure, I will not go diving with the camera 😉

John
 
traveller said:
That's what I feared and nobody worries about developing a antidote as the are not enough us 😀
John
Antidote? No way, we're trying to infect more people with this "bug"! 😀
You've got a good start going and more adventures waiting! I do'nt own either the Zorki 6 or 4 but really like my 3m(in my opinion the best looking FSU(Former Soviet Union)camera). I also think you'll like the J-12 when you get to use it.
Rob
 
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