parsec1
parsec1
Expose for the highlights develop for the shadows ?
Turtle
Veteran
I would strongly advise against using the slowest fim you can find as these generally have the highest contrast and are the most finicky in terms of controlling contrast in variable conditions.
I would recommend either FP4+ or HP5+. Pulling the latter always gives me exceptional results. If you have time to test, you should conisdeer pulling HP5+ in a speed shedding developer if you are worried about the possibility of maxing out at your fastest shutter speed. HP5+ in Perceptol 1+1 would be a great combo as it is not mushy but crisp, has wonderful tonality and the speed will be about 160-200 in normal use and probably about 125-160 if pulled significantly depending on contrast.
HP5+ pulls nicely in Xtol for avge contrast negs from high contrast scenes but this dev makes good speed and might not be ideal therefore.
Steer welllllll clear of the adox/Efke 25/50/Pan F type films. Fine in when spot metering and doing the zone system but a nightmare for variable shooting like a wedding party.
I would recommend either FP4+ or HP5+. Pulling the latter always gives me exceptional results. If you have time to test, you should conisdeer pulling HP5+ in a speed shedding developer if you are worried about the possibility of maxing out at your fastest shutter speed. HP5+ in Perceptol 1+1 would be a great combo as it is not mushy but crisp, has wonderful tonality and the speed will be about 160-200 in normal use and probably about 125-160 if pulled significantly depending on contrast.
HP5+ pulls nicely in Xtol for avge contrast negs from high contrast scenes but this dev makes good speed and might not be ideal therefore.
Steer welllllll clear of the adox/Efke 25/50/Pan F type films. Fine in when spot metering and doing the zone system but a nightmare for variable shooting like a wedding party.
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pakeha
Well-known
as luck would have it, the weather has just turned to cr...p. If it is over the easter long w/end even better as the weather is always es-ach -eye- tee then. Slow film/filters would be my pick if the weather changes.
regards
CW
regards
CW
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thrice
Established
I agree with what has been posted, polariser and fill flash do the job for me.

semilog
curmudgeonly optimist
Live in Seattle. Problem solved.
xxloverxx
Shoot.
Bring ISO 50 or 100/125 and ISO 400 and be prepared to push/pull some of each if you have to. Fast lenses also help if it suddenly goes dim when you have 50 loaded…
Try to use films that're forgiving on exposure and react well to push/pull developing - you can worry about the rest when printing, just keep as much detail as you can on the negative.
It'll probably take too long to setup a polariser every time so don't bother.
Try to use films that're forgiving on exposure and react well to push/pull developing - you can worry about the rest when printing, just keep as much detail as you can on the negative.
It'll probably take too long to setup a polariser every time so don't bother.
KenD
Film Shooter
My $0.02....
Tri-X for latitude with high contrast light, red filter to darken sky and tame the f32 @ 1/2000 light level. Go with the harsh light, don't try to fake it away. Aim for a contrasty gritty look.
Tri-X for latitude with high contrast light, red filter to darken sky and tame the f32 @ 1/2000 light level. Go with the harsh light, don't try to fake it away. Aim for a contrasty gritty look.
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