How do you flatten your fiber papers?

[Steve M.]

Humidity is part of my problem. Here in New Mexico we seldom have any. I'm going to order some single weight paper. Never had this much trouble w/ curling, but the last time I wet printed was in Florida, where there's high humidity all the time.

 

[Freakscene]

If you find any single weight FB paper let us know. I am not sure any is manufactured anymore.

Marty

 

[Erik van Straten]

I remember something like this from many years ago (i.e. When I was around nine years old). My recollection is that it was called a "ferrotyper" or "ferrotype press," with a chromed or polished stainless surface, and it was used to make glossy prints. The print was placed emulsion-side-down (facing the metal surface), held in place with the canvas in a frame stretched over it.


Are these still made?


- Murray

The Büscher is still made - under a different name - but is very expensive new. It is important that these dryers are large, as large as possible. The heat must be even. Also the temperature controlling set is very important. I use a Htronic TS125, German made. If the heat is too high or too low, the print wrinkles.

Making high gloss prints is a specialism in its own right. I prefer glossy paper that is dried without gloss. Difficult enough.

Drying FB prints is a very serious matter. I copied my set up from Picto in Paris.

The costs of this drying set up however must be seen in the light of the cost of FB paper. A box of 100 sheets Adox MCC 110 of 18cm x 24cm will set you back for EUR 106.

Erik.

 

[valdas]

Have you ever tried them?


Erik.

Yes, I use it on the regular basis. Now, reading your post I understand it is basically the same thing, but the FSU stuff is not that sophisticated - no temperature control etc. I do not put the emulsion side to the chrome plate (the way it is meant) because it is very difficult to get a quality gloss, but using it for simple drying purpose it works quite OK. It's not something one would use to meet the "gallery" type requirements, but for an amateur like me it is good enough.

 

[sepiareverb]

The only SW papers still made are Slavich, and they are difficult to get with any reliability in the US. I order direct, but supply is erratic, and offerings have shrunk over the last few years.

http://geola.com/product-category/photopaper/

In looking at that link, weight is no longer listed as an option. I would contact them directly, they have always responded to email quickly.

 

[Freakscene]

The only SW papers still made are Slavich, and they are difficult to get with any reliability in the US. I order direct, but supply is erratic, and offerings have shrunk over the last few years.

http://geola.com/product-category/photopaper/

In looking at that link, weight is no longer listed as an option. I would contact them directly, they have always responded to email quickly.

The last time I ordered Slavich papers (direct from Russia) they said the single weight base was no longer made so the papers were offered only in double weight.

Marty

 

[PRJ]

You can get flat prints if you build a print dryer. You need corrugated board and Pellon. You could also use blotter paper. Here is a description-

http://classicbwphoto.com/classicBWphoto/Print_Drier.html

One thing is to make sure you have squeegeed the print so no water is left on the surface. Also keep the wet time down to as little as possible.

If you have a clamshell dryer, putting a dry print face up on it will take most of the curl out. I usually take a stack of prints and put them in a clamshell dryer, then turn the heat all the way up. When it gets hot, I turn it off and let the prints cool down. When done the prints will be fairly flat.

You can also pull the print over the edge of a table. That works if you are desperate....

Hope that helps you.

 

[Nokton48]

Here's the Matte Print Dryer I'm building (on the left). Cost a small fortune 'cause I used the finest Marine Grade Plywood. Makes the darkroom smell really woody and pleasant.

I've just ordered all the stuff to finish it, total cost about $450

Matte Print Dryer and Film Dryer by Nokton48, on Flickr

 

[FujiLove]

I squeegee the water off, then dry them face down on clean kitchen towels...

...which makes them curly as all hell!

I leave them for 48 hours, then flatten them under books for a week or more. At that point they are okay to frame. If I'm just storing the prints, rather than framing them, they go at the bottom of the pile of other prints and eventually end up flat(ish).


(Apologies for the most unhelpful post ever).

 

[Erik van Straten]

total cost about $450
Matte Print Dryer and Film Dryer by Nokton48, on Flickr

That's about the double I paid for my set up.

I don't understand how you can dry your prints in these wooden boxes.

Erik.

 

[Nokton48]

That's about the double I paid for my set up.


Erik.

The marine grade plywood was $190 for a 4x8' sheet

It uses four "cone heaters" wired in series, cost $39 each

The print dryer uses layers of cardboard and photographic blotters from Freestyle, not expensive. Two muffin fans pull the heated (but not super hot) air, pulling it through the pleats in the cardboard. The article says 16x20 DW prints dry in four to five hours. It also runs just with the muffin fans, for no heat drying


The plans:

Plans Matte Print Dryer by Nokton48, on Flickr

The article also suggest using sheets of canvas material touching the emulsion sides of the paper in the print stack. My Kodak Blotter rolls have that. 11x14 and smaller I have always dried in Kodak Blotter rolls. I recently bought a second one for the new darkroom. Also I want to learn to do fine woodwork and this was an extremely fun project to build, following the original 1970s plans

 

[Nokton48]

My two Kodak Blotter Rolls by Nokton48, on Flickr

Up to 11x14 these also work just fine. Takes days to air dry, I have also added a hair dryer when I was in a hurry.

The gently curled prints went under a heavy pile of books for a week. Then flat as a filbert 🙂

 

[Erik van Straten]

I have an old iron book press, enormous heavy, that was used for bookbinding. It delivers an enormous pressure, but even after two years in this press, the pictures weren't flat.

Pressure alone doesn't help, you'll need heat.

Erik.

 

[valdas]

Erik, you write that your Büscher keeps the temperature at 40C - why exactly this temperature? I know this FSU stuff uses much higher temperature.

 

[Erik van Straten]

Erik, you write that your Büscher keeps the temperature at 40C - why exactly this temperature?

I found this temperature experimentally. This is were the digital temperature controller comes in. When the temperature is too high, the picture dries uneven: first the central part of the print dries and then the borders. When the print dries uneven, wrinkles arise. So the print must dry as evenly as possible, I've found out that this goes best at 40 degrees C.

With the digital temperature controller the Büscher always stays exactly on the same temperature. When the print is dry and cooled down, I put it in the Seal to get it as flat as possible. The whole procedure, from flushed print to pressed in the dry mount press, takes about 35 minutes.

I think amateur print dryers can also benefit from a digital temperature controller such as the Htronic TS125. Normally those dryers get way too hot.

Erik.

 

[rolfe]

Thirty seconds sandwiched by release paper in the dry mount press does it perfectly for me with Ilford DW Matte FB. This is for an already dry print, obviously.

Rolfe

 

[Nokton48]

Matte Print Dryer Guts Finally Here by Nokton48, on Flickr

Petersons Photographic Matte Print Dryer by Nokton48, on Flickr


Petersons Photographic Matte Print Dryer Guts finally Here ^^

 

[Erik van Straten]

Thirty seconds sandwiched by release paper in the dry mount press does it perfectly for me with Ilford DW Matte FB. This is for an already dry print, obviously.

Rolfe

My prints go in the Seal for about 90 seconds with the temperature set at 85 degrees C.


This time was advised by a professional printer. Works well.


Erik.