How do you make HP5 sing out loud?

Hello Simon: I've developed it in Ilfotec DD-X & ID-11, D76, Rodinal, Diafine and Edwal FG7 with ascorbic acid, and each render unique "feels".

Personally, I prefer either Rodinal (at 400) or Diafine (at 800) for that "definitely film" look, but reigned-in and OCD development for HP5 is best done with Ilfotec ID-11

I have a few samples here: http://www.flickr.com/search/?w=23461440@N00&q=HP5
 
I have settled on HP5plus.

The proven method for me is: HC-110 Dil. B. @400: 5:30 min., agitation the first 30 seconds, then 4 inversions every minute.

I liked it in XTOL 1:1, too, but returned to HC-110 because of easier mixing.

A great film, and now that I bulk load I even got rid of the hideous looking "bar-code" printed between the frame numbers. I like my contact sheets without bar-codes ;-)

Greetings, Ljós
 
I don't

I don't

I don't know how to make it sing out loud in 135. It's always shouting in my ear, and off-key as well...

So I have settled on Kentmere 400 for now. I know, it's supposed to be the budget film, but I like it better overall.
 
Still hoping for anyone to let me in on the secret of using 135 HP5+ @800 and develop with Rodinal without summoning excessive grain...:rolleyes:

It's gotta be in there somewhere, with the correct developing scheme...

Anyone? :angel:
 
ID11 1+1 ... around 12 minutes at 21 degrees, a tap or two at the start then 10 seconds of twiddling every minute, no inversions ...

... but I like to work with a fairly flat neg without too much grain
 
Hi Simon,

I'm still experimenting with different developers and HP5+. So far I've used Rodinal 1:50, D76 1:1 and XTOL 1:1.

120 film will give smoother results due to constant grain size but larger film area.

I'll post a few samples - to start with, here's 35mm HP5+ in Rodinal 1:50, 13.5mins 20 C. This was scanned on a V700 at 6400dpi optical. I'm not sure if the neg was perfectly flat - I don't use glass neg holders.

I like the grain in this portrait:
8580250072_f2b6a7acfe_o.jpg


Here's a 100% crop of her left eye. I've added some USM to delineate the grain more clearly:
8579151095_196b7339bb_o.jpg


I'll post some more samples with other developers later. I think looking at sample images might be the best way for you to work out which developers might suit you best.

Also I find that post processing techniques also influence apparent grain.

Lots of room for experimentation!

Cheers,
Lynn

Edit: the above was taken with a Fed3 with I-61 53mm/2.8
 
Thanks for all the suggestions, info and examples so far. I must admit, I'm wondering whether I'm going about this a little arse about t!t, perhaps I should pick a film and experiment with developers rather than pick a developer and experiment with films?!

I'm freezing my cahones off at the moment, stopped for a coffee in a cafe to warm up, so I'll have a good look at the various examples later tonight.

Gabriel, thanks for the link - I've always admired your photographs but they disappeared from here so it's good to have a link to your Flickr.
 
I used to use HP5 all the time. I developed in Rodinal 1:50. HP5 does not block highlights like Tri-X. Negatives give a long tonal scale and might look a little flat, but they will print beautifully. Rodinal is a high acutance developer. It will develop the shadows more quickly then the highlights. The perceived graininess is due to the fact that Rodinal does not contain a silver solvent.
 
Here's 35mm HP5+ in D76 1:1, taken with an XA F. Zuiko 35/2.8, V700 scan. The first image is straight off the scanner, the second is after post processing in LR4 (with grain more visible):

1. as scanned
8580297648_0d9370bec8_o.jpg


2. PP in LR4.3
med_U27021I1363839658.SEQ.0.jpg


I can see I'm not getting as good results as some others here - this is a useful thread. Thanks to others who have posted samples.
 
Ljós said:
A great film, and now that I bulk load I even got rid of the hideous looking "bar-code" printed between the frame numbers. I like my contact sheets without bar-codes ;-)
Click to expand...

Even better... Bulk HP5+ is marked "Safety-Film", now that's cool! :cool:

12.jpg

HP5 @ 800 in xtol 1+1; 1958 J3@2.0 on IIIf



@1600 in xtol 1+2
 
By the way, I'd really appreciate it if you could all stop extolling the virtues of 120 film, you'll have me buying more cameras if you're not careful and I'm not sure if I can take another withering look of disapproval from my wife when the postman drops off another large package :D
 
120 film is the bomb compared to 135 Simon ... there's no escaping it! :D
 
OurManInTangier said:
Thanks for all the suggestions, info and examples so far. I must admit, I'm wondering whether I'm going about this a little arse about t!t, perhaps I should pick a film and experiment with developers rather than pick a developer and experiment with films?!
Click to expand...

I use one developer (Promicrol) & experiment with different films. (Ilford Delta 100, 400 & 3200, FP4, HP5, APX 100, Rollei Retro 400S & RR 80S, Kentmere 400)
 
I use HP5 with either Perceptol 1+2 or SPUR HRX3... both at 250 ISO, it's gives a look that works for me... lots of examples on my Flickr
 
Keith said:
120 film is the bomb compared to 135 Simon ... there's no escaping it! :D
Click to expand...

I'm going to have to close my eyes and hum incessantly to have any chance of escape :D

Lynn - I'm kind of half with Keith. I like the PP effect on the wave/spray but prefer the non-PP on the man and rocks...though I'm looking on my phone currently. Also, being a master of over cooked & heavy handed PP it may be best to discount anything I say!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom