How do you post process your B&W film images?

The previous posts have the different film stocks, filters, etc. all covered so I thought I'd delve into the processing side of things a little more.

In my opinion, there are two glaring problems with the majority of "beginner" B&W images I see posted online. By "beginner", I mean someone who is new to the scanning/processing/resizing for web type of workflow, not necessarily a beginner photog. I should also clarify that I am speaking strictly about images originating from scanned B&W film, not scans of silver prints or digital captures (if I were discussing digital I'd have to add a couple of other items to this list).

1. Lack of local contrast (the key word being local)
2. Lack of sharpness, or conversely lack of "natural looking" sharpness

Both of these afflictions, of which my own online work suffered from when I was new to this type of workflow, have nothing to do with producing the negative itself and everything to do with what happens after that point.

The contrast issue is simple: It is rare that I produce a negative that requires only a simple levels/curves adjustment after scanning to achieve what I would call the proper "B&W look" (for lack of a better term). All of my images undergo digital dodging and burning, just as a skilled printer would do in the traditional darkroom. This is easily achieved by the use of duplicate layers, the Threshold tool used in conjunction with the Gaussian Blur filter and layer specific levels adjustments. There are various online tutorials on some of the different techniques to do this. Unless the scene you photographed is pure mid tones, without any deep shadows or bright highlights, this dodging and burning is required or else you will run into one of two issues: loss of data (in the form of blocked shadows and blown highlights) or a very muddy look to the mid tones.

The second problem, lack of sharpness, is partially related the first. In other words, local contrast adds perceived sharpness to an image. But mostly I am referring to the lack of care that many people take with how they sharpen and resize their images. Some of the other posters have already mentioned the abuse of the unsharp mask tool - it is easy to overdo it and make things look unnatural. But with the correct settings you can compensate for the loss in sharpness due to scanning (especially with a flatbed) without making the final image look brittle ("brittle".... I like it .... that is a good term for it).

For resizing, make sure to use a bi-cubic or sinc interpolation setting. If you do a straight linear interpolation resize you will lose substantial sharpness. I typically do a very slight unsharp mask after resize, just to give it a tiny bit of snap. Definitely make sure this is extremely subtle though.

On the subject of scanning, I recommend scanning B&W negatives as an "image" rather than a B&W negative and then inverting in your image processing software. Check the histogram in your scanning software to make sure you aren't missing some highlight or shadow detail because of a wacky exposure setting in the scanner software.

Hope this helps and good luck!
 
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I wasn't able to get good scans until I started doing them myself. There is one place locally that develops b&w, and they come out alright as long as it's a common film and not pushed/pulled too much. The scans come out pretty well, except they're low resolution. 'Hi-Res' scans, which take at most an extra minute for the whole roll, cost significantly more per frame and would make having a single roll developed/scanned in a way similar to what I do at home cost around $40 a roll.




Also the owner is an ass.
 
Bob, I live in Jakarta and Bandung too and I haven't yet found any lab that process BW film that I like. My suggestion is to try develop on your own. You can get all the necessary stuff in Capa Store, Pasar Baru, Jakarta. I try this route a few months ago experimenting with the cheap stuff (Lucky SHD 100 & micro MF developer) and never looked back. Developing my own BW process is the most fun part of photography for me.

But pleasa note that being in Indonesia you must be a little "creative" though because well known developing chemicals and films are hard to find.

Completely agree about Indonesia and developing. Although I live in Singapore, I am frequently there (actually have a house in Bandung) and I get the same comment from all photographers from Indonesia that I meet.
 
I agree with typhillips advice re: the need for dodging and burning and good sharpening, but I have to say I think there are easier ways. If you use Lightroom 2, it's easy to dodge and burn without dealing with lots of layers and confusing controls, there are dodge and burn tools that you can play with and are non destructive (i.e. you can hit "undo" and you won't have done any damage to your file). Plus, if you export from lightroom, you can select to "sharpen for screen--standard amount" which is that exact photoshop unsharp mask without you having to do lots of stuff to set it up. Much easier. All imho/ymmv/etc, but for my taste lightroom is much easier for film negs. For my digital work, I often use photoshop because I use its more advanced features and also use actions, especialy on color work, but I want my b/w film work to be more raw and natural, therefore I think lightroom has more than enough tools (save for the healing brush, which is easier to use in Cs3/4 than lr2 if you've got slightly dirty negs).

All the best!
 
I have never been a fan of the darkroom but I do my own Tri-x in Rodinal and print in the darkroom sincer I do not know what I want till it appears. I will scan my own b&w's for an iphoto book I am doing. Hope this helps. Good luck.
 
Hi,
I still use filters!
All my black & white is shot with a mid-yellow, always in place instead of a UV. . If I feel at the time I need to vary it I have to hand a Green , Orange and Red.

Steve
 
robinsonphoto, thanks for the Lightroom info. I'm a Linux user, so that option is off the table unless I want to try crossover office (seems clunky). I'm limited to GIMP, which is a nice piece of software but is severely limited at the moment by the fact that it doesn't support non-destructive adjustment layers. I've learned to live with these limitations, but I might look into Lightroom for use on my wife's computer (MacPro).
 
Thank you everyone.
I have a medium yellow filter on order from Ffordes, bought filters for my leica lenses from them cause 39mm filter is really hard to find here.

I think my biggest problem is in the development and the scanning of the BW negatives. Maybe the lab just doesn't do a good enough job in processing BW film. And in addition to that, I'm not good in post processing with either LR2 or Canon DPP (the photo editor I use). So far, the PP I do when I shoot film or digital is simply a WB adjustment setting and brightness adjustment. That's about it.

Last night I played with dodge and burn with LR as suggested by Robinsonphotography, thanks for the tip, and it's great, though I think I still have a lot of practice to do 😀 it's not as easy as I thought it would be.

Anyway, I also found out that the look of the scanned color film images are much better when converted to grayscale (B&W) than the look of the scanned B&W images from B&W film.
Thanks, bob
 
Filters

Filters

Hi, just from a simplistic point of view which filters are you using? I understand filters can make quite a difference to the different 'shades' of black and white you see in the end product .... I am no expert by the way .... I just prefer to knock out each problem stage by stage.🙂
 
A follow up guys.
I just found out that the problem with my B&W is due to the scanning by the local lab. I recently bought an epson v700 and scanned some b&w negatives that I have and compared the result with the result from the lab scan, my own scan with v700 produces much better result then local lab.

Here's a couple of samples, nothing fancy just a shoot of my front yard. You can see that the lab's scan is not good at all. The v700 scan is a straight basic scan, scanned to tiff then converted to jpeg and resized for flickr upload.

v700 scan

3976485558_03b2fe3988.jpg



lab scan
3975722517_8a8e14e1d1.jpg


Thanks for all the advice guys,
bob
 
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