PatrickT
New Rangefinder User
Okay guys, seriously? You've pretty much ruined what could have been a very helpful thread for people.
Enough already. It's childish.
Enough already. It's childish.
Okay guys, seriously? You've pretty much ruined what could have been a very helpful thread for people.
Enough already. It's childish.
But really, you're going to learn it some day. I imagine you'll forget all about this conversation at that point.
Thanks for the replies everyone. I downloaded a demo of ColorPerfect and Vuescan and was playing with it a bit...still not getting what I want. I was following this tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_pfQ61WTbug&noredirect=1
Previously, I was using EpsonScan with my V500 and it was really hit or miss. Sometimes it would give me a scan that was PERFECT. Color, exposure, everything. Bot more often than not, the result would be less than satisfactory.
One such "perfect" scan I got from Epsonscan I re-scanned using Vuescan + Colorperfect, and the Epsonscan version was much better than the V + CP version.
I guess I'll have to keep experimenting...
I really struggle to get good colour from my v500. Even using cp and vuescan.
The biggest shock to me was when I got my fs4000 for 35mm, colour is just so bloody easy on it! If only I could afford a mf equivalent.
Also, with the v500, I don't think it's a problem that can be solved just by white balance, it's more deeply ingrained than that.
Hope that helps.
Just to help get this back on track... (Sorry Patrick)
I really struggle to get good colour from my v500. Even using cp and vuescan.
The problem is a linear scan isn't really truly linear. How the scanner sees colours and to what sensitivity really effects how close it gets to being linear.
I don't know if there is a way to calibrate the v500 to see colour accurately but for me, it certainly does not.
This is why I believe the epson software sometimes does better, because it knows the way it sees the negatives and adjusts them accordingly.
The biggest shock to me was when I got my fs4000 for 35mm, colour is just so bloody easy on it! If only I could afford a mf equivalent.
Also, with the v500, I don't think it's a problem that can be solved just by white balance, it's more deeply ingrained than that.
Hope that helps.
This is my experience with the V700. And again, getting the Plustek 8100 solved the problem.
I also got better results with EpsonScan using the V700.
Pete
Just to help get this back on track... (Sorry Patrick)
I really struggle to get good colour from my v500. Even using cp and vuescan.
The problem is a linear scan isn't really truly linear. How the scanner sees colours and to what sensitivity really effects how close it gets to being linear.
I don't know if there is a way to calibrate the v500 to see colour accurately but for me, it certainly does not.
This is why I believe the epson software sometimes does better, because it knows the way it sees the negatives and adjusts them accordingly.
The biggest shock to me was when I got my fs4000 for 35mm, colour is just so bloody easy on it! If only I could afford a mf equivalent.
Also, with the v500, I don't think it's a problem that can be solved just by white balance, it's more deeply ingrained than that.
Hope that helps.
I had that too with the V500 .. I later got the Plustek 8200 - not much better.
When I got my FS4000 my jaw dropped on the desk, but the LS-8000 was even a step up (also less shadow noise and more even scans with thin negs - my worst complaint about the canon). The Canon has still a slight edge in resolution. My theory goes like (important MY THEORY, not knowledge) .. the V500 and the plustek use white LED while the Canon has a cold cathode lamp and the Nikon mixes RGB leds, thus both get a purer white than the spectrum of a white LED gives.
"Dedicated film scanner outperforms flatbed"
Film at 11.
The epson photo scanner v700 is marketed as a proper scanner and comes with holders for 35mm, 120, and at least one other, so, yes it was a bit of a shock that the linear scans from the V700 are not the same as those from a Plustek. Both are dedicated film scanners but the cheaper 8100 give better colour and, as might be expected, resolution.
I expect a lot of people are struggling to use the v700 to give representative colours, and think it must be something they are doing wrong. I certainly banged my head against a wall trying to get red to look red rather than magenta (as I was trying to avoid using silver fast or EpsonScan . For 35mm, there's no question that the 8100 is better, and I presume the Plustek 120 will give more accurate colour than the v700. If someone is wondering which to get for medium format, go for the Plustek if you can afford it.
Pete
The V700 is in no way a "dedicated" film scanner; no matter how Epson markets it. It's a remarkably decent film scanner, for a flatbed, but you still get what you pay for.
The only exception I've noted for this is the Polaroid SprintScan 120, which is dirt cheap but is the equal of a 9000ED.
Can you try not to push the conversation into the realms for the petty again Edge?
I agree with the standard being arbitrary. But for the purposes of achieving relatively uniform results for the consumer across a multitude of labs, that standard becomes the bull's eye in the target. When those labs consistently achieve those standards within a small tolerance (I assume the tolerance would mean differences are not readily detectable by the human eye) then those labs are both precise and accurate. So I disagree that there is no accuracy. The accuracy is based on the standard even if the standard is arbitrarily designated the manufacturer.Of course there is a standard: an ARBITRARY, manufacturer designed standard, as valid as any other because it has no basis in physical reality beyond what the manufacturer WANTS!
Just to help get this back on track... (Sorry Patrick)
I really struggle to get good colour from my v500. Even using cp and vuescan.
The problem is a linear scan isn't really truly linear. How the scanner sees colours and to what sensitivity really effects how close it gets to being linear.
I don't know if there is a way to calibrate the v500 to see colour accurately but for me, it certainly does not.
This is why I believe the epson software sometimes does better, because it knows the way it sees the negatives and adjusts them accordingly.
The biggest shock to me was when I got my fs4000 for 35mm, colour is just so bloody easy on it! If only I could afford a mf equivalent.
Also, with the v500, I don't think it's a problem that can be solved just by white balance, it's more deeply ingrained than that.
Hope that helps.
I think that the default settings in Epson scan seem to clip highlight information and compress shadow detail somewhat.
I'm not sure the Epson scan software allows for a change in Gamma all I have read suggests that it is set at 1 normally which is either 1.8 or 2.2 depending on which OS you use.
In reality I use the scanner to digitise for web based images, I print most of my B&W and send out colour.
So for me just setting the black and white points to stop clipping gives an OK rendering which is flat looking I then adjust that in an image editor.
In the end the output from a cheap scanner for medium format 800 pixel wide web viewing with all the caveats of the viewers screen being accurate is going to be good enough.
If you want to make 20" wide prints on a regular basis investment in something better is a good idea.
I had that too with the V500 .. I later got the Plustek 8200 - not much better.
When I got my FS4000 my jaw dropped on the desk, but the LS-8000 was even a step up (also less shadow noise and more even scans with thin negs - my worst complaint about the canon). The Canon has still a slight edge in resolution. My theory goes like (important MY THEORY, not knowledge) .. the V500 and the plustek use white LED while the Canon has a cold cathode lamp and the Nikon mixes RGB leds, thus both get a purer white than the spectrum of a white LED gives.
...it'd be like heaven... 😛
I know what you're saying. I think for me, who is just really concerned with getting pleasing color, I can come close enough with the temperature slider in Lightroom. I realize that it's more complicated than that, but I think that's sufficient for me. Thanks!