B-9
Devin Bro
Tried my friends deskjet scanner/printer combo, horrible.
Im thinking my Epson will do better, but then again the Impossible Project application for my phone looks usable.
How do you scan your polaroid shots?
I want to share a few to my instagram, and a post here in the Large Format RF subforum.
Any tips appreciated!
Im thinking my Epson will do better, but then again the Impossible Project application for my phone looks usable.
How do you scan your polaroid shots?
I want to share a few to my instagram, and a post here in the Large Format RF subforum.
Any tips appreciated!
robert blu
quiet photographer
I use an Epson V600 with the Impossible 4 frames holder. It works well. But if you only intend to post on the web (and not to make larger prints) I guess the Impossible Application should be good enough.
robert
robert
Nokton48
Veteran
I just shoot mine with a digital camera.
I angle the camera slightly to eliminate reflections.
This one is old, but I still like it.
My Son, jamming away at an outdoor rock concert.
Hasselblad with 350mm lens.
Al Kaplan liked this one. Said he could hear the music coming out of it!
I angle the camera slightly to eliminate reflections.
This one is old, but I still like it.
My Son, jamming away at an outdoor rock concert.
Hasselblad with 350mm lens.
Al Kaplan liked this one. Said he could hear the music coming out of it!
Attachments
Godfrey
somewhat colored
I have three ways of capturing polaroid (also known as instant film, since Polaroid no longer exists :-\) prints to digital. But first it's a good idea to think of the problem that you're trying to solve. There are three problems.
1- The first problem with capturing most polaroid prints is that they have a shiny surface. So if you're using a flatbed scanner, they tend to develop Newton rings: interference rings created when two glossy surfaces come into light contact and you shine light through them and then collect the reflection. Also because of the shiny surface, copy setups tend to have reflections of the taking apparatus.
2- The second problem is surface dust and dirt issue: it's darn hard to clean every single speck of dust off a shiny surface.
3- The third problem is that the image formed by an integral process instant film print lies some thousandths of an inch behind a transparent protective film layer, which tend to diffuse and coarsen it when scanned at high resolution. Pack film polaroid prints don't have this issue and always scan sharper.
To solve the Newton ring problem has to do with preventing the print from coming into contact with shiny surfaces. Impossible Project has jigs for SX-70 and 600 as well as Spectra type prints which have a backing of light adhesive to lift the print slightly off a scanner's glass. This works ok until the adhesive gives out, and if the particular prints don't have too much curl. A similar solution can be achieved by making a mask that holds the print slightly off the scanner glass but then you cannot capture the full print including the border, which a lot of Polaroid enthusiasts like to do.
Using a copy camera straight on works if you solve the reflection problem by creating baffles and using polarized illumination. It's a bit of a pain to set up, but it does a good job.
So ...
Scanning solution #1 is to use the Impossible jigs and work at refreshing the glue by moistening it and letting it air dry regularly. I get decent results out of this.
Scanning solution #2 is a traditional copy setup with plenty of black masking and baffling, using polarizing filters on the illuminating lamps and a polarizer on the camera lens to prevent reflections. This works very well, albeit it is a bit time consuming to setup.
Scanning solution #3 is my latest way to simplify scanning using the copy setup. I've created a simple stage with simple, diffuse illuminating lamps. The camera is mounted at about a 45 degree angle to the print and I capture a wider field than the print itself. This is all angled to eliminate any reflections in the print. Once the captures are completed, I roll them into Lightroom and use the Lens Correction panel to regain a rectilinear image. Since the camera is held on a tripod or fixture, and the prints are set on the stage always at exactly the same position, I can correct an entire batch scan with a single correction in one action.
I find the approach using the copy camera works best: it's fast and easy to setup, you can focus each image individually for best results with integral process film, and raw files captured with Leica M-P or Olympus E-M1 are more than enough pixels to create excellent large prints from polaroid sized print originals.
This pair was captured using solution #3:
Minolta Instant Pro (aka Polaroid Spectra Pro)
Impossible Project B&W film
Polaroid Effects filter
enjoy,
G
1- The first problem with capturing most polaroid prints is that they have a shiny surface. So if you're using a flatbed scanner, they tend to develop Newton rings: interference rings created when two glossy surfaces come into light contact and you shine light through them and then collect the reflection. Also because of the shiny surface, copy setups tend to have reflections of the taking apparatus.
2- The second problem is surface dust and dirt issue: it's darn hard to clean every single speck of dust off a shiny surface.
3- The third problem is that the image formed by an integral process instant film print lies some thousandths of an inch behind a transparent protective film layer, which tend to diffuse and coarsen it when scanned at high resolution. Pack film polaroid prints don't have this issue and always scan sharper.
To solve the Newton ring problem has to do with preventing the print from coming into contact with shiny surfaces. Impossible Project has jigs for SX-70 and 600 as well as Spectra type prints which have a backing of light adhesive to lift the print slightly off a scanner's glass. This works ok until the adhesive gives out, and if the particular prints don't have too much curl. A similar solution can be achieved by making a mask that holds the print slightly off the scanner glass but then you cannot capture the full print including the border, which a lot of Polaroid enthusiasts like to do.
Using a copy camera straight on works if you solve the reflection problem by creating baffles and using polarized illumination. It's a bit of a pain to set up, but it does a good job.
So ...
Scanning solution #1 is to use the Impossible jigs and work at refreshing the glue by moistening it and letting it air dry regularly. I get decent results out of this.
Scanning solution #2 is a traditional copy setup with plenty of black masking and baffling, using polarizing filters on the illuminating lamps and a polarizer on the camera lens to prevent reflections. This works very well, albeit it is a bit time consuming to setup.
Scanning solution #3 is my latest way to simplify scanning using the copy setup. I've created a simple stage with simple, diffuse illuminating lamps. The camera is mounted at about a 45 degree angle to the print and I capture a wider field than the print itself. This is all angled to eliminate any reflections in the print. Once the captures are completed, I roll them into Lightroom and use the Lens Correction panel to regain a rectilinear image. Since the camera is held on a tripod or fixture, and the prints are set on the stage always at exactly the same position, I can correct an entire batch scan with a single correction in one action.
I find the approach using the copy camera works best: it's fast and easy to setup, you can focus each image individually for best results with integral process film, and raw files captured with Leica M-P or Olympus E-M1 are more than enough pixels to create excellent large prints from polaroid sized print originals.
This pair was captured using solution #3:
Minolta Instant Pro (aka Polaroid Spectra Pro)
Impossible Project B&W film
Polaroid Effects filter
enjoy,
G
Mackinaw
Think Different
For my IP films, and Fuji FP-100C, I’m using an old Epson 4490 scanner. I scan using the Epson software, the pull it into Photoshop where I adjust brightness, contrast etc. I’m happy with the results.
Jim B.
Jim B.
charjohncarter
Veteran
I use document scan on my scanner with the removable white mat mounted. I then over crop so I have extra area. I open in Picasa 3 (free from Google). Then straighten (they have a great straightening tool), and finally crop to the Polaroid's edge.
Make a copy again in Picasa 3, and go to PS if needed. This method gives me a crop right up to the Polaroid border so it looks like a Polaroid.
Make a copy again in Picasa 3, and go to PS if needed. This method gives me a crop right up to the Polaroid border so it looks like a Polaroid.
B-9
Devin Bro
Might be good to know Im shooting 667/669 and FP-100c.
I have an Epson V300 scanner, but I do NOT have Photoshop, Ill look into Picasa, if its free.. whats the harm! Sounds simple enough.
For now the Impossible app. should work just fine for quick instagram snaps.
I have an Epson V300 scanner, but I do NOT have Photoshop, Ill look into Picasa, if its free.. whats the harm! Sounds simple enough.
For now the Impossible app. should work just fine for quick instagram snaps.
photomoof
Fischli & Weiss Sculpture
When I was showing SX-70 Polaroids, I just showed the originals. That was rather the point.
charjohncarter
Veteran
My scanner is a V500 so very much the same, like I say Picasa3 is free. I've been using RAWtherapee which is also free, but I like it way better than my other RAW converters, plus you also can edit TIFF and JPEG with it. It is over loaded with duplicated tasks. In other words, they have thrown everything into it. But RAWtherapee does have the simple lighten, contrast, shadow recovery tools that are excellent and you can forget all the esoteric tools.
Nokton48
Veteran
Exactly to the point.
I too think Instant photos should be shared by showing and sharing the originals.
In my experience People freak out when they see them. So Much Fun.
How did you get those "little pitchers" so quickly????
Godfrey
somewhat colored
Exactly to the point.
I too think Instant photos should be shared by showing and sharing the originals.
In my experience People freak out when they see them. So Much Fun.
How did you get those "little pitchers" so quickly????
It is the point ... I shoot doubles/triples sometimes and give many away (a contributor to the lightening of my wallet). But, I still want some of those photos for use in publication, at which point I need to have good quality image files from them. That's why I've taken a bit of time and effort to figure out how to capture them to digital with good quality.
G
B-9
Devin Bro
Thats good and fine, actually right on.
But...
As I said in the original post, I want to share these snaps with members.. here online.. many many miles from me lol.
Mackinaw
Think Different
Of course you’re right, that’s the purpose of instant photography, but I also want to put some of the Polaroids I shoot on my website. You gotta scan to do that.
Jim B.
charjohncarter
Veteran
I thought I'd throw this one out: this guy works with a Polaroid 600. His scans still look like Polaroids.
http://lenscratch.com/2015/06/carson-sanders-the-states-project-georgia/
http://lenscratch.com/2015/06/carson-sanders-the-states-project-georgia/
lynnb
Veteran
to avoid the Newtons Rings I gently slide the print back into an empty Impossible film pack and place that face down on a V700 glass. Works very well apart from losing the white border. Here I have recreated the border in Photoshop.
photomoof
Fischli & Weiss Sculpture
I have put them on a web site. I just photographed them. I used to use one as my avatar (which obviously was not art
) Me on right, now famous, successful filmmaker guy, on left (http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/pages/frontline/about-us/producer-martin-smith/). 1975?
jonnie burtoft
Newbie
hi, I shoot fp100c and scan on the Epson 4990. I reclaim the negs with bleach. once dried I scan using the 5x4 mask, I made my own mask for the Polaroid neg out of acetate, I cut an aperture just big enough for the image, the border is scanned as the acetate is clear. I sandwich the neg between 2 pieces of cut acetate and load it into the 5x4 mask, It works really well and I like the results. Cheers, Jon
jwicaksana
Jakarta, Indonesia
I scan it just as I do paper document, with my Canoscan 9000f. I saved it as tiff then import to Lightroom and edit there to match the original print.
That's me in the middle, shot by a friend with fp3000 film.
That's me in the middle, shot by a friend with fp3000 film.
robert blu
quiet photographer
Next question about is how many dpi do you scan your Pola/Impossible/Fuji instant photos?
robert
PS: I agree it's very nice to show the small print but sometimes an enlargement is nice as well, just IMHO
robert
PS: I agree it's very nice to show the small print but sometimes an enlargement is nice as well, just IMHO
farlymac
PF McFarland
I take mine to the local lab, then make adjustments if necessary after I get them home.
PF
PF