How do you scan your 35mm B&W film?

[Chris Bail]

I got a Plustek 8100 recently. My Epson v500 was not sharp enough for 35mm.



I create linear scans with SilverFast and convert the positives with Colorperfect.

This is the route I am likely going to take as well.

Right now I use an Epson V500, and I'm disappointed by the lack of sharpness when scanning 35mm...I'll probably keep it for use with 120 though.

 

[Vincent.G]

I use an Epson V700 with Epsonscan software and its original film holders. No bells and whistles i.e. no ANR glass; no better scanning holders etc. Works well for me considering its price, versatility and output.

 

[jonmanjiro]

Coolscan 5000 with SA-30 so I can scan an entire roll in one go.

Summarit 50/1.5 and Neopan 400


Elmarit 28/2.8 Asph and Neopan 400

 

[Steve M.]

I wet print, but an old $40 Epson 2450 is what I use. Just for proofing and web posting. I have trouble seeing what is really on a tiny 35mm neg w/ a loupe, and the scanner magnifies all the faults. I have actually used it for inkjet prints back in the day, but it's a lot better with at least 6x4.5. For 6x6, 6x9 and 4x5 it rocks.

 

[kiemchacsu]

I am using a Nikon Coolscan IV ED.
First I scan whole roll to JPG 2000dpi using provided Nikon Scan software. Then If I find interesting shots, I may rescan them to TIFF 16bit max resolution 2700DPI then post process later. For TIFF, I follow a tip (read here in RFF) that scan to positive with NO manipulation and then convert it in Photoshop.
I'm happy with the output, you can check it out on my flickr stream

 

[k__43]

coming from a D40 with M42 Macro-Tubes, I used a Canon 8800f, later a Epson V500, a Plustek 8200 and now I got a Canon FS4000 but only scanned C41 negs so far (w/ great results) .. I'm on the edge of buying a Nikon CS8000. Bank account says no but GAS says yes


[Edit:] GAS won, the bank account is sad. Can't wait to get this thing

 

[alexnotalex]

Scan Dual III for me, scanning at medium resolution with Vuescan, mostly on default settings. 6 frames at a time, could be faster but it's a huge improvement on one at a time.

So much is done in Aperture/Lightroom after I tend to keep the settings simple. Every time I try to "improve" my scanning workflow it just gets worse.

 

[philipus]

I use a 9000 and used to scan on a V ED (which I still have). I like the 9000 for its versatility and speed. The light source is definitely softer than that in the V which I like, too.

I used to use a dedicated 35mm Film/Dia-Scanner (Reflecta Crystal Scan 7200). But since a short time I use a different approach: I bought a Leica BEOON from the 1950ies and use the Leica M240 with a 50mm Summilux ASPH at f11 to create 1:1 macro shots. The lens and negative holder are comletely shielded against reflective or stray light with some really sophisticated small black card board constructs... 😀 As light source I use a iPad with bright white sceen and a diffusor glass plate over it, where the BEOON stands on.

Intriguing. Could you post an example? I'm surprised thus setup works well for 6x6.

 

[vbsoto]

I'm using a Epson 3170 w Vuescan. I'm relatively pleased with the results, having printed some to 11x14 thru Costco and Samsclub. I've been scanning my back catalog going on a year now. Get about 3 rolls on a good day as I go about my work at the office.

 

[semilog]

I was using my dear old Polaroid SprintScan 4000 until it bit the dust 🙁

 

[Godfrey]

I should answer choices 2, 3 and 5. But I can't.

G

 

[kossi008]

Canon FS4000US.
Slow as hell (USB 1.1), but I like the results.

 

[Godfrey]

To flesh out my brief earlier response:

- My most recent 'scanning' setup for 35mm slide film is the Olympus E-M1 fitted with MMF-3 mount adapter and the Olympus ZD 35mm f/3.5 Macro lens, itself fitted with a Nikon ES-1 slide copying holder. Fit a slide in, point it at a nice even light source (flat panel light box for me), focus, set f/8, and shoot. It nets an 11 Mpixel image of the full 35mm frame once cropped to the image area. Resolution, dynamic range, and color are extremely good, and you have the raw files for detail tonal curve tweaking.

- For 6x6 and 35mm B&W negative strips, I use either a Nikon Super Coolscan 9000 or Coolscan V (35mm only). The Super Coolscan 9000 has a more diffuse light source and can load 12 exposures at a time (strips of six), the net result is it's a bit gentler on slightly damaged or dirty negs, and can scan more frames*unattended in batch mode (VueScan). The Coolscan V is a bit faster but has a harder light source, it can handle up to six exposures in a load. It's a bit easier to work with for 'non-standard 35mm formats' (like half frame, Robot square, etc) than the 9000.

I scan using VueScan with a raw workflow, that is, scan max resolution setting only the bias to capture the entire dynamic range, output to VueScan raw encapsulated DNG files. I annotate the DNG files with metadata using EXIFtool, then import them into Lightroom. Customized camera calibration files are applied which do the B&W reversal and tonal curve assignment. From there I export/import into 16bit TIFF files for finish rendering.

- For various other B&W negatives, I use a copy camera setup and the aforementioned lightbox...

G

 

[jwcat]

I am using an X-E1 with Nikkor Micro 55mm 2.8 and extension tube. Just started but looks good. I am investigating the Colorperfect program for color negs. Free trial and will do it when my computer gets back up. Slides and B&W look good without it.

http://www.c-f-systems.com/Plug-ins.html#colorperfect

John

 

[vbsoto]

@ Godfrey, I'm using Vuescan in the same way producing raw .tiff. I presumed it was all auto. What do you mean by setting the bias? If you could provide a little detail on that process, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Thanks,
Victor

 

[Godfrey]

@ Godfrey, I'm using Vuescan in the same way producing raw .tiff. I presumed it was all auto. What do you mean by setting the bias? If you could provide a little detail on that process, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Thanks,
Victor

It's mostly auto. If you look at the raw histogram, you can see that sometimes the data falls inside the limit points. Adjusting the capture black point and white point seems to result in shifting the histogram once in LR as well.

I can't say that it does for sure as I haven't done specific testing, I just adjust black and white points to bring the bias in line. This is descendent of my previous workflow when I output TIFF files ... I might be fooling myself into thinking there is something going on when there isn't! ;-)

G

 

[Michael Markey]

Happy with my Epson V500 using Epson software.
Prior to that I was using Ilford for my development and scans.

Should the V500 break I would probably revert to using Ilford again or get a V750.

 

[vbsoto]

Thanks Godfrey.

Victor

 

[wakarimasen]

I'm really surprised about the proportion of people using a flatbed. For some reason, I thought most people scanning 35mm film would be using a dedicated scanner.

 

[Godfrey]

I'm really surprised about the proportion of people using a flatbed. For some reason, I thought most people scanning 35mm film would be using a dedicated scanner.

Dedicated film scanners have gotten a bit thin on the ground, and flatbed scanners have improved enough to make them usable, if not ideal.

G