Bill58
Native Texan
I've got another chance to shoot a nighttime parade in Seoul this weekend. What have ya'll found as a successful combination of color film, lens, camera? Last year I used my Fuji F30 digital, but the results were blurred-I presume too slow "shutter" speed.
Suggestions appreciated!
Thanks,
Bill
Suggestions appreciated!
Thanks,
Bill
urban_alchemist
Well-known
Either Fuji Pro 800Z pushed, or Fuji Neopan 1600. MP. Noctlux.
Can hand-hold in virtually no light...
But, if it's relatively well-lit (think a city), then regular 400ISO film should work fine...
Superia 400
Can hand-hold in virtually no light...

But, if it's relatively well-lit (think a city), then regular 400ISO film should work fine...
Superia 400

kywong
Established
I had a RF and a 17-40 f/4 on a EOS 20D for the WTO protest. Things happened too quickly for me to focus in the dim light with the RF, so I stuck with the 20D. I found iso1600 a bit slow, and at iso3200, I was able to get decent shutter speeds and mostly sharp photos, but the tones and noise was disappointingly bad once I saw them on screen. I reckon the photos could've been good if it wasn't for the tones and noise, now I don't even keep a copy online. But I would imagine more current DSLRs and perhaps a f/2.8 lens would produce more satisfactory results.
I've also done a bit of night time street photography, where I get a lot more time to manual focus. Unlike digital you can't just binge shoot so I try to get faster shutter speeds, my combination was the Nokton 50 f/1.5 on a M6, with Provia 400F pushed two stops. Those I've bothered to keep a few online, albeit on Deviantart, and I believe they don't allow remote loading. The third one is with the 35 'Cron IV, and the last one is on Kodak T-Max P3200, it is a stop faster but it's very grainy.
http://fc06.deviantart.com/fs11/i/2006/237/c/2/3_2_by_kevinwong.jpg
http://fc09.deviantart.com/fs11/i/2006/252/1/8/Just____light_and_shadow_by_kevinwong.jpg
http://fc05.deviantart.com/fs12/f/2006/324/1/8/Red_Dress_by_kywong.jpg
http://fc08.deviantart.com/fs11/i/2006/206/5/8/2_1_by_kevinwong.jpg
I've also done a bit of night time street photography, where I get a lot more time to manual focus. Unlike digital you can't just binge shoot so I try to get faster shutter speeds, my combination was the Nokton 50 f/1.5 on a M6, with Provia 400F pushed two stops. Those I've bothered to keep a few online, albeit on Deviantart, and I believe they don't allow remote loading. The third one is with the 35 'Cron IV, and the last one is on Kodak T-Max P3200, it is a stop faster but it's very grainy.
http://fc06.deviantart.com/fs11/i/2006/237/c/2/3_2_by_kevinwong.jpg
http://fc09.deviantart.com/fs11/i/2006/252/1/8/Just____light_and_shadow_by_kevinwong.jpg
http://fc05.deviantart.com/fs12/f/2006/324/1/8/Red_Dress_by_kywong.jpg
http://fc08.deviantart.com/fs11/i/2006/206/5/8/2_1_by_kevinwong.jpg
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JohnTF
Veteran
Bill, I recently used an M8 with a CV Nokton 1.2, and was surprised at what it captured at night.
Years ago, I shot night shots in the 6th Arr. in Paris, the best results with film was with a fast film, using the recommendations on the film box.
With the M8 I was guessing, and using the slowest speed I could hold, but could chimp. Still pleasantly surprised at what was usable.
Regards, John
Years ago, I shot night shots in the 6th Arr. in Paris, the best results with film was with a fast film, using the recommendations on the film box.
With the M8 I was guessing, and using the slowest speed I could hold, but could chimp. Still pleasantly surprised at what was usable.
Regards, John
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Noctilux at full bore/ISO 2500/M8 or M8.2. With mono film, Delta 3200 rated at 2500 and processed as for 3200. With colour film... Buy an M8 or M8.2.
This goes down to the level where you can no longer focus visually (and if you can't focus visually, and don't want to project blobs of red light onto the subject, the light level REALLY IS too low).
Tashi delek,
Roger
This goes down to the level where you can no longer focus visually (and if you can't focus visually, and don't want to project blobs of red light onto the subject, the light level REALLY IS too low).
Tashi delek,
Roger
Larky
Well-known
Neopan 1600 is stunning film, and if you stand develop for two hours at 1+100 Rodinal you get greats negs. I love that film.
Of course the other option is turn it into a riot and set light to stuff.
Of course the other option is turn it into a riot and set light to stuff.
rogue_designer
Reciprocity Failure
In the city.
provia 400F pushed to 1600 (or TriX to the same). Anything F2 or faster.
I did shoot one digitally back in 2002 (D100 with the 35/2 and 50/1.4). Worked out ok all things considered. But I wish I'd had a back up rig with pushed provia or TriX in it.
..
If you can get down in the mix of it... grab a 283 and preset your aperture, drag the shutter, and just strobe in their faces...
provia 400F pushed to 1600 (or TriX to the same). Anything F2 or faster.
I did shoot one digitally back in 2002 (D100 with the 35/2 and 50/1.4). Worked out ok all things considered. But I wish I'd had a back up rig with pushed provia or TriX in it.
..
If you can get down in the mix of it... grab a 283 and preset your aperture, drag the shutter, and just strobe in their faces...
antistatic
Well-known
Of course the other option is turn it into a riot and set light to stuff.
Brilliant !!
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