How does one shoot with a slow film say iso 50 to 100 ?

[raytoei@gmail.com]

How does one shoot with a slow film say iso 50 to 100 ?

I have recently started to try out 100 film, plus-x, acros 100 and a couple of other b&w film. While outdoor shots are managable, I find indoor snaps to be quite challenging.

Since I am sure iso 100 was considered medium to fast not that long ago, I wonder what techniques are there when shooting an iso 50 to 100 film ?

Here are some of the broad, obvious ones, pls share your tips and techniques.

1. Shoot outdoors only
2. Shoot with fast lens
3. Shoot with soft release to allow slower speeds
4. Use a flash
5. Use a tripod, cable release or timer
6. Push the film higher
7. Position sitter near a light source or window
8. Tell the subject not to move
9. Bring along a led light
10.Bracket the shots with +- ev

Raytoei

 

[raytoei@gmail.com]

My indoor shots range between 1/4 to 1/15 and aperture of f1.4 to f2. About 30% of the shots are a miss...

Raytoei

 

[damonsong]

I think the soft release technique and push the film speed work really well, and use near by light source is good as long as you can find one, let's see if someone has some creative way to do it.

 

[David Hughes]

I'll add (1) chose your moment carefully and (2) use a reflector indoors and suggest - as it's a big subject - buy a book about photography (especially an old one) and read what they did then. I used to have a 1914-ish copy of Kodak's "How to Take Good Photographs" and that covered indoor shots...

And in the 30's Leitz used to publish brochures for the cameras with pictures taken by the light of one candle and then 100ASA would have been seen as OTT. So lots of techniques are available but there's not that much space here.

Regards, David

 

[Richard G]

This is Rollei Retro 100 with a Zeiss 25 where I would have been confident to hand hold a 1/15s and I think this was 1/4 as I know I put the camera on the bench next to me and tripped the shutter. I once shot 1/2s at f2 on Tri X and did indeed ask my two friends in a very dim nightclub to stay very still. The shot turned out wonderfully. That instruction and various expedients to stabilize the camera adds a dimension that was commonplace a hundred years ago and we miss some of the benefits now. That said, I am rarely shooting 100 ASA indoors.


Melbourne by Richard GM2, on Flickr

 

[petronius]

Use only one film/developer combination and learn how it works in different situations. If you do this long enough you will know what will work and what will fail.

Use a camera that fits your hands, a soft release is overrated imho.
Look at the work of the slow speed masters, like Ernst Haas, Erich Salomon and Saul Leiter.

If you want, have a look at my Rollei 35 and Polypan F blog.

 

[raytoei@gmail.com]

exposure was like 1/8 and f1.4, iso 100. the motion blur adds to the dynamics of the picture.

damonsong: i agree with you regarding timing the shot.

thanks for the many useful replies....pls continue to share your techniques.

david hughes: excellent. will search for it in amazon.

richard g: very nice pix.

petronius: your iso 50 with rollei 35 is a source of inspiration.

raytoei

 

[Peter_Jones]

Laying off the coffee for a few days (seriously)

 

[Richard G]

Raytoei it is a little unnerving when with your talent you start these humble threads tempting us to give advice. Here's one other time I was caught out with only 100 ASA in the camera, RR 100 again. My good friend was also hiding his light under a bushel and only referred in passing to his inaugural professorial lecture that evening when by chance I happened to call him. Inspired by Bill Pierce I sat in the front row, rested the hefty M5 with the Zeiss 1.5 50 on the front rail and tried to time the peak of the action. This was 1/2s and the fastest I shot on that roll was 1/4s and I used the whole roll to get two reasonable shots. I was happy.


Dean's Lecture by Richard GM2, on Flickr

 

[J. Borger]

If you want, have a look at my Rollei 35 and Polypan F blog.

Some very nice work in there. I realy enjoyed Petronius.

 

[claacct]

Tripod.


The message you have entered is too short. Please lengthen your message to at least 10 characters.

 

[Juan Valdenebro]

Of course a fast lens wide open, support and some pushing are the key... But 50-100 film works for interiors only if there's light enough: bright artificial light, or windows or anything giving us good light...

But LOTS of interiors just can't be shot with slow films. Even some places are too dark for 1/8 @ 3200 f/1.4... Our eyes see well where cameras see nothing...

Cheers,

Juan

 

[zauhar]

My kids gave me this gadget for Xmas:

http://www.eoutlet.co.uk/SteadePod-Retractable-Camera-Stabilizer/

It is very clever - screws into the camera tripod mount, has a retractable line with pad at the end that you step on. Pull up on the camera and it gives you some extra stability.

May not be the sort of thing you want to carry around, I have just started to experiment with it.

BTW, I take it this is your picture?

Frankly I don't see any problem.

Randy

 

[raid]

How does one shoot with a slow film say iso 50 to 100 ?

I have recently started to try out 100 film, plus-x, acros 100 and a couple of other b&w film. While outdoor shots are managable, I find indoor snaps to be quite challenging.

Since I am sure iso 100 was considered medium to fast not that long ago, I wonder what techniques are there when shooting an iso 50 to 100 film ?

Here are some of the broad, obvious ones, pls share your tips and techniques.

1. Shoot outdoors only
2. Shoot with fast lens
3. Shoot with soft release to allow slower speeds
4. Use a flash
5. Use a tripod, cable release or timer
6. Push the film higher
7. Position sitter near a light source or window
8. Tell the subject not to move
9. Bring along a led light
10.Bracket the shots with +- ev

Raytoei

I am used to 50 and 100 ASA films, and using ISO200 or 400 was a new thing to me.

With ISO100 film indoors, I set the aperture to wide open and the speed to 1/15 and shoot. Most of the times, it is useful. Last evening, and while having dinner at a restaurant, I set the Summicron 50/35 to 2.0 and speed 1/15, and the M6 showed me that the exposure was nearly spot on. The slow speed color film will give more vibrant colors than a faster speed. B&W film does not require slow film speed unless you want very fine grain.

 

[newspaperguy]

For a budget version of zauhar's suggestion, buy a small pet leash at the discount store for about $3, slip the loop through you support hand, grasp your camera and stand on the loose end and shoot. Find in any color, fits in your pocket and fits your wallet, too.

 

[raytoei@gmail.com]

"By maintaining tension on a piece of string,
wrapped under the feet and around the top
of the lens, camera shake can be minimized"

35MM PHOTOGRAPHER'S HANDBOOK [Paperback] by JOHN GARRETT JULIAN CALDER


Rick, is this what you mean ?

raytoei

 

[Roger Hicks]

Look at pics from the 30s, 40s and 50s. They did it. Why shouldn't you?

As for the chain pod: some people get sharper pics. Others (including me and the most recent AP test) find it gives them less sharp pics (or indeed fewer sharp pics). The only way to find out if it works for you is to try it for yourself.

Cheers,

R.

 

[damien.murphy]

I don't use iso 100 (or faster) film, myself. I shoot indoors and outdoors equally, and iso 400 film with a fast lens allows me to shoot in both situations quite easily, plus with a 2/ 3 stop nd filter I can shoot at wider apertures on sunny days too.

In any case, the difficulty in shooting indoors is what stops me from using anything iso 100 or slower, so I shall keep an eye on this thread with some interest.

 

[NeeZee]

I recommend not to rule out using a flash. I used to be really anti flash but lately i got into it a bit more and it's pretty fun and has kinda broadened my photographic horizon - especially direct flash is not as bad as people try to make you believe, imo...

 

[newspaperguy]

raytoei - not quite.

The nylon dog leash drops straight down from your support hand and is held by

one foot, not two.

This lets you pivot as you might with a monopod.

Mr. Hicks -

I agree, but it has been useful to me in low-lite, not to say low-life, situations

where a tripod is not permitted. I'm thinking back to museums and some galleries.

Plus, it brings into play my favorite word - Cheap!