Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
For some time now I'm enjoying John Free free photography lessons on youtube.
Very fundamental views and ideas. Philosophical and practical by same time.
To my surprise he is using same Nikon F3 HP for decades on the street. No RFs
So, I decided to try it, but budgetary way.
With great help from Georgetown Halton Camera Exchange shop and lab, where local famous ex-Leica technician known as Bodo is, I acquired Olympus OM-10.
Same focusing screen and VF as on OM pro series. And using same cheap, available everywhere and lasting long time batteries as my Oly XA.
Paid $80 for flawless kit with Zuiko 50 1.8 and UV filter.
I started with famous TriX to see if it is worth of $10 per roll, followed by budgetary Kentmere 100. Developed in HC-110, scanned with Epson V500 and tweaked in LR.
I like MDF on this kit. For Leica I would have to pay $1K for DR in same focal length to be able to get close.
My main interest was to find out how good is the compact manual focus slr would be for the street photography.
I started it years ago with DSLRs and lost excitement at some point, to find the joy again with RFs.
Some how I ended up with bunch of dogs at this time
The precise focusing with Oly-10 is kind of similar to some of RFs I have.
Round circle in the middle and image has two parts if not in focus.
Very bright and sharp splitted image comparing to RF patch.
Seems to be much more effective in low light.
Oly OM-10 is almost the same size as M4-2.
But 50 1.8 lens is bigger comparing to 50 1.5 Jupiter 3 on Leica.
And honestly... J-3 is the lens with character in the images. Zuiko is more on generic side, for my taste.
100% working camera kit under $100 and if I want 28mm it is around $40, which is not existing price range for RF lenses.
If I want exchangeable lens RF body with AE priority it is much more expensive as well.
Comparing to M4-2 it isn't build as nice as Leica, but it isn't plastic camera either.
Not to mention classic Zuiko lenses which are perfectly made. I have 28 3.5 and 50 1.4 before. Solid, yet neat and compact lenses.
From "street" perspective slr like this OM-10 is cost effective solution for AE with aperture priority.
It is more universal for short MDF at close up distances and tele lenses are perfect to use, where RFs ... sucks at both ends.
So, how about the "street" with slr like this vs RF camera.
With M4-2 my left eye is unobstructed I could see what is approaching, I'm more aware what is going to happen. In RF/VF of M4-2 I have extra space around 50mm frame. I found it very useful for quick, yet precise framing.
But my major slow down with OM-10 on the street was with focusing.
The entire screen is blurred if not in focus. But I'm not cityscape, tripod, cable shutter release person. My street episodes lasts only few seconds.
With Leica I see it clear all the time, I do frame it and focus often by same time.
Not with OM-10. It has DOF preview, but it darkens the VF instead of blurring it with wide open aperture.
It is kind of frustrating, something happening on different focal length as on previous shot, I bring it to my eye to frame it and ... I can't see what is going on before I focus...
I don't mind mirror slap at the moment of picture taking, but blurred VF before I take the picture is slowing me down and I'm kind of disoriented.
I never understood why John Free always reminds to practice with focus.
Like going into backyard and focus. Now I know why.
In opposite, I show it to the young fella whom I teaching b/w DIY photography.
He tried my Zorki-6 before, now with his grandpa "Smena", which he finds fancy to operate.
He was thrilled after he looked into OLY VF. "I like slr" he told me.
Very fundamental views and ideas. Philosophical and practical by same time.
To my surprise he is using same Nikon F3 HP for decades on the street. No RFs
So, I decided to try it, but budgetary way.
With great help from Georgetown Halton Camera Exchange shop and lab, where local famous ex-Leica technician known as Bodo is, I acquired Olympus OM-10.
Same focusing screen and VF as on OM pro series. And using same cheap, available everywhere and lasting long time batteries as my Oly XA.
Paid $80 for flawless kit with Zuiko 50 1.8 and UV filter.
I started with famous TriX to see if it is worth of $10 per roll, followed by budgetary Kentmere 100. Developed in HC-110, scanned with Epson V500 and tweaked in LR.
I like MDF on this kit. For Leica I would have to pay $1K for DR in same focal length to be able to get close.
My main interest was to find out how good is the compact manual focus slr would be for the street photography.
I started it years ago with DSLRs and lost excitement at some point, to find the joy again with RFs.
Some how I ended up with bunch of dogs at this time
The precise focusing with Oly-10 is kind of similar to some of RFs I have.
Round circle in the middle and image has two parts if not in focus.
Very bright and sharp splitted image comparing to RF patch.
Seems to be much more effective in low light.
Oly OM-10 is almost the same size as M4-2.
But 50 1.8 lens is bigger comparing to 50 1.5 Jupiter 3 on Leica.
And honestly... J-3 is the lens with character in the images. Zuiko is more on generic side, for my taste.
100% working camera kit under $100 and if I want 28mm it is around $40, which is not existing price range for RF lenses.
If I want exchangeable lens RF body with AE priority it is much more expensive as well.
Comparing to M4-2 it isn't build as nice as Leica, but it isn't plastic camera either.
Not to mention classic Zuiko lenses which are perfectly made. I have 28 3.5 and 50 1.4 before. Solid, yet neat and compact lenses.
From "street" perspective slr like this OM-10 is cost effective solution for AE with aperture priority.
It is more universal for short MDF at close up distances and tele lenses are perfect to use, where RFs ... sucks at both ends.
So, how about the "street" with slr like this vs RF camera.
With M4-2 my left eye is unobstructed I could see what is approaching, I'm more aware what is going to happen. In RF/VF of M4-2 I have extra space around 50mm frame. I found it very useful for quick, yet precise framing.
But my major slow down with OM-10 on the street was with focusing.
The entire screen is blurred if not in focus. But I'm not cityscape, tripod, cable shutter release person. My street episodes lasts only few seconds.
With Leica I see it clear all the time, I do frame it and focus often by same time.
Not with OM-10. It has DOF preview, but it darkens the VF instead of blurring it with wide open aperture.
It is kind of frustrating, something happening on different focal length as on previous shot, I bring it to my eye to frame it and ... I can't see what is going on before I focus...
I don't mind mirror slap at the moment of picture taking, but blurred VF before I take the picture is slowing me down and I'm kind of disoriented.
I never understood why John Free always reminds to practice with focus.
Like going into backyard and focus. Now I know why.
In opposite, I show it to the young fella whom I teaching b/w DIY photography.
He tried my Zorki-6 before, now with his grandpa "Smena", which he finds fancy to operate.
He was thrilled after he looked into OLY VF. "I like slr" he told me.
BillBingham2
Registered User
My father learned years ago at the Leica School of Photography that the most accurate way to focus a SLR is to rock it past and then bring it back into focus. With an RF you just dial it, no need for rocking.
While I prefer an OM-1, the OM-10 is a nice little camera. The OM series will always hold magic for a lot of folks here.
Street photograph should be less about the camera and more about your skills of observation and timing.
Not sure if you know, but there is a shutter-control-thingy that plugs into the upper left side of the camera that gives you manual control over your shutter speed.
Enjoy and keep sharing the results.
B2
While I prefer an OM-1, the OM-10 is a nice little camera. The OM series will always hold magic for a lot of folks here.
Street photograph should be less about the camera and more about your skills of observation and timing.
Not sure if you know, but there is a shutter-control-thingy that plugs into the upper left side of the camera that gives you manual control over your shutter speed.
Enjoy and keep sharing the results.
B2
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
Thank you for the trick with focus info, Bill!
Yes, this manual shutter dial adapter, I checked and it is also very affordable.
Loaded today another roll of film into OM-10 to practice with MF
Yes, this manual shutter dial adapter, I checked and it is also very affordable.
Loaded today another roll of film into OM-10 to practice with MF
wafflecakee
Well-known
I've had three leicas in the past but I've never sold my om10. I'm also very find of that camera. Beautiful with portra as well.
Ranchu
Veteran
I find it helpful to scale focus first, then bring the OM10 to your eye and focus. It is nice to see outside the frame, though.
Tejasican
Well-known
Ranchu beat me to it. That is what I find works best in that type of shooting and if you are good with distance estimation and the light is good you really only use the viewfinder for framing.
leicapixie
Well-known
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143213
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143213
I don't see the way OP does!
First it's amazing how much is in focus.
Place focus at 12' on a 50mm or 28mm.
Using a RFDR one always "imagines" focus area is very small.
One relies on that absolute result.
Left eye users don't see everything happening.
The RFDR body blocks, same way as a SLR/DSLR.
The Leica is very fast to focus, but the reflex "sees" beautifully.
I use both RFDR,M3,M6 and many SLR.
I use anything on a shoot.
Truth tell there is very little difference between all good lenses.
I know pixel peepers will have it otherwise.
Shooting as a Pro, hundreds of rolls a year at times.
A top end SLR will cost a pittance compared to a Leica.
If you are only a Leica shooter, get a breath of life.
If you have never used a Leica-M, buy, rent or borrow.
Sadly the latter will need longer to become familiar.
A few months, a year better.
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143213
I don't see the way OP does!
First it's amazing how much is in focus.
Place focus at 12' on a 50mm or 28mm.
Using a RFDR one always "imagines" focus area is very small.
One relies on that absolute result.
Left eye users don't see everything happening.
The RFDR body blocks, same way as a SLR/DSLR.
The Leica is very fast to focus, but the reflex "sees" beautifully.
I use both RFDR,M3,M6 and many SLR.
I use anything on a shoot.
Truth tell there is very little difference between all good lenses.
I know pixel peepers will have it otherwise.
Shooting as a Pro, hundreds of rolls a year at times.
A top end SLR will cost a pittance compared to a Leica.
If you are only a Leica shooter, get a breath of life.
If you have never used a Leica-M, buy, rent or borrow.
Sadly the latter will need longer to become familiar.
A few months, a year better.
Last edited:
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
I'm not a PP in terms of lenses difference. My Epson V500 doesn't have resolution this deep
I'll try it with scale prefocusing.
I used it with 28 3.5 all the time, but it was simple, just close distance or infinity
I'll try it with scale prefocusing.
I used it with 28 3.5 all the time, but it was simple, just close distance or infinity
Austintatious
Well-known
Street photography with an SLR:
ASA 400 film
28mm lens set to infinity
f5.6 to f8 on aperture priority
Everything from 6 feet to infinity will be in focus
ASA 400 film
28mm lens set to infinity
f5.6 to f8 on aperture priority
Everything from 6 feet to infinity will be in focus
Pioneer
Veteran
When I go street with my LX I use my 40/2.8 pancake. The LX is small to start with and the pancake lens gives me a wonderful SLR package that is as easy to handle as the M3.
I close down my aperture to at least f8, preferably f/16, and shoot scale focus from there. And remember, you can always use a brightline viewfinder in the hot shoe if it makes your framing easier. I use the little viewfinder made for the Pentax Q sometimes.
I close down my aperture to at least f8, preferably f/16, and shoot scale focus from there. And remember, you can always use a brightline viewfinder in the hot shoe if it makes your framing easier. I use the little viewfinder made for the Pentax Q sometimes.
redisburning
Well-known
I never found much practical difference in use between RF and SLR for 50mm lenses.
And because I only shoot 50, I wasn't sad when I sold my Leica. Maybe 50/1.8 is boring, I've owned 2 and I would agree with that. But I've got 50/2.0 Macro, 50/1.2 and 55/1.2 OM lenses. They all have immense, yet different, character. The Macro especially is a top tier lens IMO, equaling anything I've shot from Leica or Zeiss including 50MP and 50DR cron where almost all other 50s fall WAY short.
We all see differently. And time, and experience, changes much. I spent much of the last 2.5 years opining how people photography had been taken away from me. Now I live downtown and all I see is how boring people are. So I am taking some detail pictures of buildings. Awesome.
And because I only shoot 50, I wasn't sad when I sold my Leica. Maybe 50/1.8 is boring, I've owned 2 and I would agree with that. But I've got 50/2.0 Macro, 50/1.2 and 55/1.2 OM lenses. They all have immense, yet different, character. The Macro especially is a top tier lens IMO, equaling anything I've shot from Leica or Zeiss including 50MP and 50DR cron where almost all other 50s fall WAY short.
We all see differently. And time, and experience, changes much. I spent much of the last 2.5 years opining how people photography had been taken away from me. Now I live downtown and all I see is how boring people are. So I am taking some detail pictures of buildings. Awesome.
Noll
Well-known
I recently picked up an OM-10 too and agree that it is a great camera. It is fast to shoot, has a superb viewfinder, and very good auto-exposure. I have the FC adapter but don't find much need for it (that's what the OM-1 is for).
helen.HH
To Light & Love ...
Haha, Fun Article, Thank You I enjoyed it.... Great shots
So who's giiving You the cold shoulder now that you've been caught ?
Bith of them
I beg to differ with your thoughts on the zuiko 50 1.8
it was Jane Bowen's Favorite lens On her OM1 and her Portrait work is Outstanding with this lens... absolutely Stelar !
So who's giiving You the cold shoulder now that you've been caught ?
Bith of them
I beg to differ with your thoughts on the zuiko 50 1.8
it was Jane Bowen's Favorite lens On her OM1 and her Portrait work is Outstanding with this lens... absolutely Stelar !
oneANT
Established
...my father in law starts his car in 2nd gear and then complains to the dealership that its got a bit of a shudder, he thinks its uncanny that his last five new cars have all had the same fault ...and he's a mechanic.
redisburning
Well-known
Helen, you gotta separate the artist from the equipment I think.
give a bunch of lenses to a bad photographer and if there are any lenses they make really good looking photos with then you know which ones are really special. that is why it is not hard to see that C/Y100 or pentax 105/2.4 are such good lenses.
helen.HH
To Light & Love ...
Ok Perry, I agree with You Yes & No ... :angel:
I can certainly Agree some lenses are more SPECIAL than others...
and certainly with vintage glass one has to be careful with haze, fungus, scratches if one wants to get the optimum performance
As for a 'bad' photographer Its certainly not the fault of the Glass , more so in the Framing, Focusing, and Subject matter ...
Jane Bowen preference was working with Natural Light
Granted she needed a certain skill and aesthetic understanding of Light
and the way Film speeds, shutter/ aperture settings, & developer all play a roll in the final visual
But again I still that 50 1.8 proved its sublime character
BillBingham2
Registered User
I see something similar in my father and now myself. He used to call himself a frustrated engineer, distilled how things work, developed approaches to make it better. Yes, starting a car in 2nd gear is possible but comes with it's consequences, known or unknown. Not sure about the cars he had but earlier cars here in the States used to have three forward gears (now most have four or more). Perhaps he didn't want to change from his yearly years.
My father however was a photographer for Kodak in Rochester his entire working life. While not part of PID, he did wonderful work helping people look there best. Helped me discover a wonderful hobby and taught me when ever I asked.
B2
Photog9000
Well-known
The OM-10 was my first SLR (wife let me buy it for my 30th birthday) with the Zuiko 1,8/50mm. This was the camera that sent me down the path that eventually led to me spending a decade as a newspaper photographer. Sadly that career ended in 2008 in the recession and I had to go back to a "real" job. At one point, I owned a pair of the OM-10 bodies with fast zooms on each (24-70mm on one and a 80-200mm on the other) so I did not have to change lenses. Eventually replaced the -10 with the OM-2S and then the OM-4T (best spot metering system ever imo) before needing to switch to Nikon for autofocus.
I even purchased the same OM-10/50mm setup for one of my granddaughters several years ago. Sadly, I don't think she uses it much but she is an incredible artist in her own right.
I even purchased the same OM-10/50mm setup for one of my granddaughters several years ago. Sadly, I don't think she uses it much but she is an incredible artist in her own right.
BillBingham2
Registered User
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
Haha, Fun Article, Thank You I enjoyed it.... Great shots
So who's giiving You the cold shoulder now that you've been caught ?
Bith of them
I beg to differ with your thoughts on the zuiko 50 1.8
it was Jane Bowen's Favorite lens On her OM1 and her Portrait work is Outstanding with this lens... absolutely Stelar !
Thank you, Helen!
Right now I have both of them in my Domke satchel
I didn't know about Jane Bown, to be honest.
Googled her and nothing about 50 1.8, but 85 lens.
"She bought an Olympus camera with an 85mm lens, and set it, invariably, at a shutter speed of 1/60th of a second with the aperture at f2.8...."
http://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2009/oct/18/jane-bown-photographer-retrospective-exposures.
Jane Bown's OM-1:
http://static.guim.co.uk/ni/1365602743107/Jane-Bown's-OM-1.pdf
Light is very important in portraits, posing, but lens isn't so important.
I wish, I could see "Why Looking for Light: Jane Bown" documentary....
P.S. I asked to change my 50 1.8, because it has some smudge on inner optical element and they gave me another one right away.