Thomas W
Member
exposure on the R-D1
exposure on the R-D1
I have no focussing/ rangefinder problem with my R-D1. So
far I have tried it with Minolta Rokkor 28mm, Summicron 35mm,
and Konica Hexanon 60mm/1.2 (LTM), and Elmarit 90mm. I am quite pleasantly surprised by the quality of the low-light pictures (using ISO 1600) I took with the Hexanon wide open.
I haven't encountered shutter freeze, or have any problem with the LCD and the menu. I am new to digital photography, so could someone tell me what hot pixels is all about?
However, on photos with huge expanses of sky or sunlit water surface, I tend to get under-exposed results. Clear skies could appear a little overcast. I learn from the forums that this is better than having the highlights bleached. But I want to develop a good/efficient metering method. So does that mean I should aim a little low (using AE) and then recompose, so as to avoid under-exposure?
Any comments and advice would be highly appreciated.
Thomas W
exposure on the R-D1
I have no focussing/ rangefinder problem with my R-D1. So
far I have tried it with Minolta Rokkor 28mm, Summicron 35mm,
and Konica Hexanon 60mm/1.2 (LTM), and Elmarit 90mm. I am quite pleasantly surprised by the quality of the low-light pictures (using ISO 1600) I took with the Hexanon wide open.
I haven't encountered shutter freeze, or have any problem with the LCD and the menu. I am new to digital photography, so could someone tell me what hot pixels is all about?
However, on photos with huge expanses of sky or sunlit water surface, I tend to get under-exposed results. Clear skies could appear a little overcast. I learn from the forums that this is better than having the highlights bleached. But I want to develop a good/efficient metering method. So does that mean I should aim a little low (using AE) and then recompose, so as to avoid under-exposure?
Any comments and advice would be highly appreciated.
Thomas W
Doc William
William
Thomas W said:
Thomas,
Getting a suitable exposure is even simpler than the procedure you describe. Simply use the Exposure Compensation values on the shutter speed dial, the numbers above or below the AE setting. + values =overexposure, whereas - values are under exposure. You will have to push the lock release button under the shutter charge lever in order to twist the dial. So in the case you describe above you would want to use the + values (up to 2 stops) while keeping an eye on the histogram. This is all described in pages 24-25 of the User's Guide.
Actually, in most cases you want to push the histogram to the right without blowing out the highlights, so that you don't lose shadow detail. Hope this helps.
Cheers,
bill
agoglanian
Reconnected.
My only issue so far is that my rangefinder seems to move around if i detatch the lens, it seems to just move about, im not really sure how or why this happens, but i dont think im going to send it in, i can make due and just frame carefully, besides, the images still come out fine
SteveRD1
Well-known
9 big fat bad pixels. I noticed two when I 1st used it and now I see 9. Even at ISO200. Seial # is 45**
No other obvious problems except I notice it seems hard to get the image lined up to foucs. It never really seems sharp or 100% lined up. I have 6 more days to return it to B&H for an exchange, so I may just do that.
No other obvious problems except I notice it seems hard to get the image lined up to foucs. It never really seems sharp or 100% lined up. I have 6 more days to return it to B&H for an exchange, so I may just do that.
sgy1962
Well-known
Steve -- Your second paragraph I believe is a product of the short rangefinder base.
Joe S
Member
#4500 is perfect after a couple weeks. If it fits your needs and you can afford it, I highly recommend this camera. Leica and Zeiss may or may not do many things, but life is short and this is a great camera that quickly endears itself.
brightsky
Established
Hello everyone~
I just joined this forum after benefiting greatly from your tips, advice, and even horror stories about the RD-1. Mine arrived today, and based on the numerous postings here, I believe Epson is recycling these cameras. Mine was purchased from a high volume, well-known retailer and is serial 19xx. It seems odd that others who have purchased recently from this same retailer are receiving cameras in the 43-45xx range.
I telephoned the retailer after receiving it, rather unglued at seeing the lower serial number. They assured me it was an unopened box direct from Epson. Based on the packaging and the ship date to the retailer from Epson on the inside box label, I believe them.
In a baptism of fire, I learned the basic controls and began shooting away, using a Cron 35 ASPH. I just got the bright idea of placing my spirit bubble level in the hotshoe, so I will test more later. It "appears" the focusing is excellent and if there are any VF alignment issues, they are slight. The level will be of more use in determining how much, if any, the framelines are off.
Pixels are another story. I seem to have acquired the "rainbow" model, which features several stuck/hot pixels. Thus far I have noticed them at 400 and higher, getting progressively more noticeable as the ISO is increased. I did not note any using Raw. The two red pixels are the largest and most obnoxious, but there are also light magenta, light green, yellow, and white.
It's difficult to arrive at an exact count using the magnify and scroll option on the LCD, so I intend to load the software on both my Mac and PC tonight and look at them with PS, and make my decision on whether to keep this 19xx issue based on those results.
If these R-D1s were automobiles, the NTSB would have already issued a recall, or we'd be covered under our states Lemon Law. If the stuck/hot pixels are not equal at all ISOs, couldn't this problem be fixed with firmware. Have their been any upgrades since the original issue? Also, someone commented that this pixel issue might resolve itself over time? Is this assuming a firmware upgrade? Otherwise, I don't understand how the issue would resolve itself.
Thanks to all who have so generously contributed with their photos and advice. I doubt I would have taken the plunge without them.
CM
I just joined this forum after benefiting greatly from your tips, advice, and even horror stories about the RD-1. Mine arrived today, and based on the numerous postings here, I believe Epson is recycling these cameras. Mine was purchased from a high volume, well-known retailer and is serial 19xx. It seems odd that others who have purchased recently from this same retailer are receiving cameras in the 43-45xx range.
I telephoned the retailer after receiving it, rather unglued at seeing the lower serial number. They assured me it was an unopened box direct from Epson. Based on the packaging and the ship date to the retailer from Epson on the inside box label, I believe them.
In a baptism of fire, I learned the basic controls and began shooting away, using a Cron 35 ASPH. I just got the bright idea of placing my spirit bubble level in the hotshoe, so I will test more later. It "appears" the focusing is excellent and if there are any VF alignment issues, they are slight. The level will be of more use in determining how much, if any, the framelines are off.
Pixels are another story. I seem to have acquired the "rainbow" model, which features several stuck/hot pixels. Thus far I have noticed them at 400 and higher, getting progressively more noticeable as the ISO is increased. I did not note any using Raw. The two red pixels are the largest and most obnoxious, but there are also light magenta, light green, yellow, and white.
It's difficult to arrive at an exact count using the magnify and scroll option on the LCD, so I intend to load the software on both my Mac and PC tonight and look at them with PS, and make my decision on whether to keep this 19xx issue based on those results.
If these R-D1s were automobiles, the NTSB would have already issued a recall, or we'd be covered under our states Lemon Law. If the stuck/hot pixels are not equal at all ISOs, couldn't this problem be fixed with firmware. Have their been any upgrades since the original issue? Also, someone commented that this pixel issue might resolve itself over time? Is this assuming a firmware upgrade? Otherwise, I don't understand how the issue would resolve itself.
Thanks to all who have so generously contributed with their photos and advice. I doubt I would have taken the plunge without them.
CM
Terence T
Where'd my Bessa go?
I just received my new R-D1 last week, relatively low serial (#13xx). No major issues, just a dead pixel problem which I think I can live with, for now. Seems to show about 2 pixels at iso 200 and increasing to 12 at iso 1600.
Seems to focus well with most lenses, only problem was with the CV 75/2.5 which produced a bit of back focusing. Not a real problem and it seems only apparent with that lens. I tried it with my other long lenses, a 90 cron and CV 90/3.5 and they both seem to be spot on.
Quite satisfied with this body and will probably be keeping it. Haven't had a chance to try out the Epson battery just yet. Using a 3rd party one which is still showing a little below half full after 200 frames. I'll be happy if it goes to 300+, this is with excessive chimping on the LCD display.
Seems to focus well with most lenses, only problem was with the CV 75/2.5 which produced a bit of back focusing. Not a real problem and it seems only apparent with that lens. I tried it with my other long lenses, a 90 cron and CV 90/3.5 and they both seem to be spot on.
Quite satisfied with this body and will probably be keeping it. Haven't had a chance to try out the Epson battery just yet. Using a 3rd party one which is still showing a little below half full after 200 frames. I'll be happy if it goes to 300+, this is with excessive chimping on the LCD display.
satbunny
Established
Gosh
Gosh
Well this thread has scared me right off saving up to buy one of these monsters!
Gosh
Well this thread has scared me right off saving up to buy one of these monsters!
R
RML
Guest
satbunny said:
Why? Apart from a few reported problems, most of us have little or no problems at all.
michael viener
Newbie
Have any of you experienced this problem with your r-d 1 ? Your histograms on the camera look good, but when you go to process the images in the software they are under exposed by 1-1/2 to 2 stops. I'm a careful user. This is my second r-d 1. My first had a chronic frozen shutter issue but exposures were generally excellent. I loved the camera. It was compact, fun to use and results were very rewarding. Images with this replacement camera are practically unusable.
fgianni
Trainee Amateur
Received my camera today and immediately tested it for rangefinder accuracy, seems spot on.
DOes it mean I have a winner or problems can start to occur in later life?
DOes it mean I have a winner or problems can start to occur in later life?
R
RML
Guest
fgianni said:
Nothing is for sure in life.
Terence T
Where'd my Bessa go?
michael viener said:
Yours has a histogram function? Where?!
R
RML
Guest
Terence T said:
RT(f)M.
In display mode lift up the selector knob and skip thru the modes there. One of them is the histogram function.
Terence T
Where'd my Bessa go?
Pays to read the manual eh? Hehe
fgianni
Trainee Amateur
Terence T said:
Or playing with the menus
fgianni
Trainee Amateur
Well actually probably there is a problem with mine: the battery does not click in place, and is only held there by the battery door, however, since focusing is accurate and I can't see any dead pixels, I think I am better off keeping this one
Erl
Established
Well, I bought mine 2nd hand. Couldn't afford new. I suspect it may be a 'new' recycled job but don't really care. Ser # 000483.
I have some serious focus problems with my Noctilux front focussing, my 90/f2.0 jumping all over the place, literally with focus. All lenses seem to front focus at closest range. A serious disappointment but I took the gamble because I can't wait for the Digital M.
I do like its performance at high ISO values, but I will continue to use my Leica's for real work. A bit of a let down in that regard.
I will find ways to live with it because my life is too short. I still need to do further trials, but work keeps getting in the way! Oh well, it wasn't meant to be easy.
I have some serious focus problems with my Noctilux front focussing, my 90/f2.0 jumping all over the place, literally with focus. All lenses seem to front focus at closest range. A serious disappointment but I took the gamble because I can't wait for the Digital M.
I do like its performance at high ISO values, but I will continue to use my Leica's for real work. A bit of a let down in that regard.
I will find ways to live with it because my life is too short. I still need to do further trials, but work keeps getting in the way! Oh well, it wasn't meant to be easy.
Last edited:
usccharles
Well-known
Hello Everyone, my first post! (bought my RD-1 today. my first RF. been an SLR geek)
returned my RD-1 after an hour of ownership! the shutter button only worked half the time. press the button and nothing would happen.
took it back, guy tried to reset the camera, nothing happened, so i got a new RD-1 to take home.
new camera seems good. no problems so far. but alittle worried. i've made a big investment away from my SLR, which have never given me problems... i want to be a long-term investment...
returned my RD-1 after an hour of ownership! the shutter button only worked half the time. press the button and nothing would happen.
took it back, guy tried to reset the camera, nothing happened, so i got a new RD-1 to take home.
new camera seems good. no problems so far. but alittle worried. i've made a big investment away from my SLR, which have never given me problems... i want to be a long-term investment...