Jonik
Member
Greetings,
right now i've got about 5 exposed films in the fridge waiting for 3 more to get exposed and then developed all together..
it's gonna be stand developing for all of them and i was wondering if i can get 5 of them in a single x5 35mm tank and the rest in a single x3 35mm tank and be done with it in a couple of hours..
is there a limitation when using this method, like for example 2 films at a time ?
the tank is quite tall so maybe the developer will tend to go towards the bottom of the tank or something like that(maybe it's heavier than the water or i dunno..), leaving the films in the top reels undeveloped/unevenly developed?
Edit: i'm gonna be using 0.5ml HC 110 +2 ml R09 in 300 ml water per film
right now i've got about 5 exposed films in the fridge waiting for 3 more to get exposed and then developed all together..
it's gonna be stand developing for all of them and i was wondering if i can get 5 of them in a single x5 35mm tank and the rest in a single x3 35mm tank and be done with it in a couple of hours..
is there a limitation when using this method, like for example 2 films at a time ?
the tank is quite tall so maybe the developer will tend to go towards the bottom of the tank or something like that(maybe it's heavier than the water or i dunno..), leaving the films in the top reels undeveloped/unevenly developed?
Edit: i'm gonna be using 0.5ml HC 110 +2 ml R09 in 300 ml water per film
mfogiel
Veteran
Do you care for the images?
If yes, develop normally with regular agitation.
For stand experimenting, I would shoot some pictures of my cat and kids.
People have been stand developing for as long as a week, keeping the tank in the fridge.
If yes, develop normally with regular agitation.
For stand experimenting, I would shoot some pictures of my cat and kids.
People have been stand developing for as long as a week, keeping the tank in the fridge.
Sejanus.Aelianus
Veteran
My experience is that stand development works best for those films where you have a lot of tricky tone ranges. Also, if using Rodinal, which seems to be the stand developer of choice, I find that FP4 (125 ISO) is as fast a film as I can get away with, unless I'm aiming for golf ball grain...
Oh, yes! I tend to limit myself to one hour, though perhaps I should try a bit longer, in the interests of science!
Oh, yes! I tend to limit myself to one hour, though perhaps I should try a bit longer, in the interests of science!
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Steve M.
Veteran
I've learned (the hard way) to develop one roll at a time. Too much risk otherwise. I've also learned (the same way) to develop my film right away, in case I have a camera that is malfunctioning or a bad batch of film (Ultrafine!). It happens. Better to know after one roll than after 5.
Nice composition SA. It's difficult to keep things straight on a shot like that. It looks blown out on one side, but you were probably dealing w/ a very bright sun that was near high noon from the look of that dark, short shadow.
Nice composition SA. It's difficult to keep things straight on a shot like that. It looks blown out on one side, but you were probably dealing w/ a very bright sun that was near high noon from the look of that dark, short shadow.
Mark C
Well-known
I can hardly stand the thought of another stand thread, but do appreciate the high standard of your thread title.
Jonik
Member
i need to get as best image quality results as possible, tonal range, shadows, highlights etc
The films are
RPX 25
RPX 100
RPX 400
Rollei Retro 80S
Rollei Retro 400S
Fomapan 200
and they are meant to be test films to determine which film i'm gonna buy in bulk , the 25-30% of the images are gonna be used for photo courses material (something like, we bring new stuff each week in the class) so the pictures as pictures are not so important because i can always go back and shoot it again, improve it , etc i care more about possibilities of the film ...
i thought you get better results with stand as long as u just tweak it a bit more in photoshop/darkroom later.. maybe i need to do more studying .. ?
i use low speed films in general... so the whole thing is mainly for the rpx 25, 100 retro 80s .. the rest are just to test out what film to use when i want to/have to get away from the usual speeds (not very often)
I don't know if i'm making myself understandable... really sorry for my english
Ronald M
Veteran
Best advice you will ever get on the internet. Trust me.
Vigorous agitation so developer get replenished over the whole film. Uneven leads to clear areas. They are NOT surge marks.
Second best advice you will find.
Pioneer
Veteran
I think that stand development is something that most everyone plays with at some point because it is so tempting. Busy schedule? Toss your film and some Rodinal in a tank, walk by in half an hour and roll it once. Come back in another half hour and do it again, or open it, fix and wash. Meanwhile you can vacuum, change the oil, do the dishes, study for a test, etc. And your film gets developed with minimal effort. Almost as good as sending it out.
Unfortunately it doesn't always work out that well. I have done it and received back pretty decent negatives, other times the results were not good. Streaking, density changes and other issues. As was already advised, if you need those images for some reason, and it sounds like you are using them to make a decision on what film to use going forward, then develop using the manufacturer's recommendation.
Unfortunately it doesn't always work out that well. I have done it and received back pretty decent negatives, other times the results were not good. Streaking, density changes and other issues. As was already advised, if you need those images for some reason, and it sounds like you are using them to make a decision on what film to use going forward, then develop using the manufacturer's recommendation.
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Jonik
Member
Editing was the following for 90% of the pictures (there are some exceptions that needed some extra ..care..) :
1% Shadows
5-20 Highlights
5-10 Midtone Contrast
minor adjustments in Levels
Lows, Highs, and 99% of the time - brightening the mids a little
(most with most histograms i was quite pleased (except Retro 80s which i messed up with the chemicals -- good thing it's a twin pack so i got another roll to try))
10-30 Contrast
0.8-3 Pixels Radius in High-Pass filter for sharpening
minimum dodging/burning in rare cases
some results :
RPX 100
RPX 25
Rollei Retro 80s
1% Shadows
5-20 Highlights
5-10 Midtone Contrast
minor adjustments in Levels
Lows, Highs, and 99% of the time - brightening the mids a little
(most with most histograms i was quite pleased (except Retro 80s which i messed up with the chemicals -- good thing it's a twin pack so i got another roll to try))
10-30 Contrast
0.8-3 Pixels Radius in High-Pass filter for sharpening
minimum dodging/burning in rare cases
some results :
RPX 100
RPX 25
Rollei Retro 80s