how to clean camera seals on Canonet

[jmilkins]

I just picked up a QL17GIII for $AU5 in a thrift store... oh yeah! They also had a 28 for $15..

Camera is in great nick overall, but needs the seals replaced. I've got some foam to cut to size, but the old black seals are really sticky and missing in part. Any advice on how to get this out safely?

ta!

 

[Pherdinand]

🙂 i like their pricing.
The old seals can be taken off with a wooden or plastic stick cut to sharp edge. I used the one included with the jon goodman (interslice) e-bay light seal kit succesfully, but nothing stops you to make your own. Plastic would do as well. If it's stuck on the shiny chrome parts of the camera already, you can rub it with alcohol (ethanol) on a q-tip, or better on a tissue; it will get softer and will be removable. If you rub the black-painted back with ethanol however, expect some loss of black paint (apparently ethanol dissolves the black paint on the inside of the camera back) so be careful there.

Try to protect the lens surface while removing the old goo-foam; if pieces stick on the lens they will stain it and it's not easy to get rid of them.

 

[Kim Coxon]

Hi,
I must say that I prefer ronsonol to ethanol. Much les chance of removing the paint. It may need several apllications but slow and easy is the best way. I would also endorse the comments about Jon's kits. It will be one of the best investments you make and the kit comes with full instrutions for the Canonet.
Kim

🙂 i like their pricing.
The old seals can be taken off with a wooden or plastic stick cut to sharp edge. I used the one included with the jon goodman (interslice) e-bay light seal kit succesfully, but nothing stops you to make your own. Plastic would do as well. If it's stuck on the shiny chrome parts of the camera already, you can rub it with alcohol (ethanol) on a q-tip, or better on a tissue; it will get softer and will be removable. If you rub the black-painted back with ethanol however, expect some loss of black paint (apparently ethanol dissolves the black paint on the inside of the camera back) so be careful there.

Try to protect the lens surface while removing the old goo-foam; if pieces stick on the lens they will stain it and it's not easy to get rid of them.

 

[john neal]

Some folks say to use iso-propyl alcohol, but I have always found methanol to be the best - and no paint loss either!

 

[kabkos]

If you are using adhesive backed light seal material, put some iso-propyl alcohol on the adhesive side before installing. The alcohol allows you to slide the light seal into position before it sticks. Once the alcohol evaporates, the adhesive adheres to the camera. This was a trick taught to me by an old camera tech.

 

[iggers]

Send an email to Jon Goodman. ("interslice" on Ebay, and a member of this forum.) He sells the best light seal kits, at very reasonable prices, and includes advice / instructions.

 

[Kim Coxon]

Hi John,
Are you sure you mean methanol and not methylated spirits or meths? Methanol is quite dangerous stuff. Meths is ethanol with the addition of a very small amount of methanol and dye to get round licensing. Iso propyl is pure and so doesn't leave any dye/perfume residues.

Kim

Some folks say to use iso-propyl alcohol, but I have always found methanol to be the best - and no paint loss either!

 

[RML]

RFF member Jon Goodman sells new seals for $6. I got a set and as soon as I have time I'll be replacing the seals on my new Canonet 28 (bought for 3 euro on the "vrijmarkt' during Koninginnedag).

I just need a new battery. Can anyone help with that?

 

[Wayne R. Scott]

Just a note on a tool that I use for removing light seals. I bought a little tool in the cosmetics area of Wal-Mart that is called a cuticle remover. I guess people use it to work on their finger nails. It is a sharp little v-shaped minishovel that cuts out the seals very quickly. It is just the right size to fit into the light seal grove and slide along removing the sticky gunky old seals. It was under $2 and I don't have to use a sharp stick.

Wayne

 

[Peter S]

RML

Contact batterij.adapter@wanadoo.nl (Frans lives in Holland, so that should be convenient to you), a pleasure to deal with. He sells adapters (15EUR if not mistaken) that allow you to use 1.5V silveroxide batteries.

http://www.stutterheim.nl/rollei/download/batt-adapt-NL.pdf

The above link also provides pretty good information.

I have to confess I have not yet used my Canonet GIII with the new battery so I do not know whether the lightmeter comes up with correct exposure. It should be fine.

Good luck

Peter

 

[dmr]

I just picked up a QL17GIII for $AU5 in a thrift store... oh yeah! They also had a 28 for $15..

Camera is in great nick overall, but needs the seals replaced. I've got some foam to cut to size, but the old black seals are really sticky and missing in part. Any advice on how to get this out safely?

I would second (or third) the recommendation to spend US$6.00 for one of Jon Goodman's kits. It includes a little bamboo tool that you can use to get (most of) the yucky old seals out of the camera.

A couple months ago I got my baptism by fire on repairing cameras, and by far the worst part of the process was getting all the remains of the old seals out and cleaned up. It took a couple hours with q-tips, isopropyl alcohol, Ronsonol, and Jon's tool to get it really clean. My hands were black after that. It does take some time to get it all out, but it's worth it.

Oh, be sure to remove the pressure plate on the camera back. It goes a lot smoother.

 

[Kim Coxon]

Hi,
Some of the battery adapters work but some won't supply the correct current. John Neal, another member, does produce ones which work with the GIII. Another alternative is to pop the top off and recalibrate the meter so it works with silver cells. Just remember to do it on a bright day as the difference in meter readings is higher the brighter the light.

Kim

RML

Contact batterij.adapter@wanadoo.nl (Frans lives in Holland, so that should be convenient to you), a pleasure to deal with. He sells adapters (15EUR if not mistaken) that allow you to use 1.5V silveroxide batteries.

http://www.stutterheim.nl/rollei/download/batt-adapt-NL.pdf

The above link also provides pretty good information.

I have to confess I have not yet used my Canonet GIII with the new battery so I do not know whether the lightmeter comes up with correct exposure. It should be fine.

Good luck

Peter

 

[RML]

Kim, I'd like to DIY it if the adapters don't work out but how do I pop the hood and what would I have to alter in there?

 

[Pherdinand]

RML, first of all be sure that your 28 needs the mercury batteries. I have one I bought for fun and for its components, it's the "N" (New?) version, and I was surprised to see that it works not with the mushroom-shape PX625 mercuries but with plain simple alkaline or silver cells, smaller than the PX625.

I agree with Kim on the methanol. Be very very careful with it. Sniffing in its vapours can already make you sick and have eye problems; now, that's not very handy for photography neither, is it?

 

[jmilkins]

wow - what a friendly and knowledgable corner of RFF! You Canon folks sure are nice. Thanks to all for your great advice and pointers to Mr Goodman's kit. I'll don the gloves and get cleaning... 🙂

 

[Jon Goodman]

Hi, John, and thanks to everyone for the endorsements of the seal kits! I'm leaving this morning for a trip which will take me out of town until Thursday. If anybody needs anything in my absence, I'll try to answer e:mails sent to Jgood21967@aol.com through my wife.
Best regards,
Jon

 

[john neal]

Hi John,
Are you sure you mean methanol and not methylated spirits or meths? Methanol is quite dangerous stuff. Meths is ethanol with the addition of a very small amount of methanol and dye to get round licensing. Iso propyl is pure and so doesn't leave any dye/perfume residues.

Kim

Hi Kim,

Yes, I did mean methanol - I have tried meths, great at removing old seals, but it leaves a white residue. I take precautions with methanol - latex gloves and good ventilation. It's the main constituent of fuel for model glowplug engines, which is why I have it in the first place. Isopropanol is another fuel constituent for increasing range. Wait till I tell you haw good ethyl ether is at removing seal goo! (Yes, I have that too for model diesel engines).

Probably the safest is Isopropanol as it is virtually non-toxic, but I still would not recommend drinking it!

 

[RML]

"N" version...? I don't think I saw any "N" markings anywhere.
Anyway, I'll hvae to replace the light seals first.

I shot some test shots in the past few days, and the light seals seem to block the light still. Also, thinking that the camera would be "stuck" at 1/30 sec, and using iso400 film, I took shots by changing the aperture. The negs seem fine, actually, though I haven't scanned them yet.

 

[Kim Coxon]

Hi John,
I should have guessed. I don't have a lot of time for it now but used to be into C/L. I have just got rid of my PAW diesels and Fox glows!

Kim

Hi Kim,

Yes, I did mean methanol - I have tried meths, great at removing old seals, but it leaves a white residue. I take precautions with methanol - latex gloves and good ventilation. It's the main constituent of fuel for model glowplug engines, which is why I have it in the first place. Isopropanol is another fuel constituent for increasing range. Wait till I tell you haw good ethyl ether is at removing seal goo! (Yes, I have that too for model diesel engines).

Probably the safest is Isopropanol as it is virtually non-toxic, but I still would not recommend drinking it!

 

[Kim Coxon]

Hi, Give me a day or two and I will take some photos and post on how to do it.

Regards
Kim

Kim, I'd like to DIY it if the adapters don't work out but how do I pop the hood and what would I have to alter in there?