How to clean reels?

Jake06

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My Paterson reels are getting near impossible to use as the chemical build-up on them is causing the film to stick as it winds onto the reel. I'm always careful to make sure the reels aren't damp so I think we can rule that out as being the cause of the problem. I've been able to crudely force 35mm onto them without any damage, but having mangled a roll of 120 I now accept that I need to do something about it.

I have three reels, two of which have been sitting for a few years gathering dust and just generally getting dirty (they weren't in a box or anything). So I'm looking for the best way to clean them thoroughly, something that will get in between the tracks.

I've always had trouble loading 120.
 
Someone probably has a better solution but I use diluted bleach and then just leave them in a bucket of water ad it does the job.
 
Diluted white vinegar. Scrub with a toothbrush.
If they are dusty and generally dirty, put them with your dirty dishes to actually clean the dirt off, then use the vinegar to remove the old chemicals.
 
What I do is wash the reel, container, cap, stir stick and the thingy to put the reel on after each use. Leaving chemicals like photo flo on to dry I believe is a no-no.

Hope you get yours clean.

I use a stainless steel reel and tank for 120.
 
I have a similar problem with gray emulsion buildup on the Jobo plastic reels. I clean them with dishwasher liquid and a toothbrush every time I have developed films, but the emulsion buildup is getting worse & worse.
 
It may sound funny.... I scrub them when they are dry with a dry toothbrush right before use.
A quick blast of air to get rid of any bits.
It seems like this sort of "burnishing" makes the reels super smooth and film loads on really easily.
It's become a part of developing workflow for years now.
Take the stupid Ball bearing out if you have not already. Solves lots of issues.
 
This post is basically why I gave up on Paterson reels and switched to steel. There's a learning curve when using them, but once you get it, you're set.
 
I've never had a problem with chemical residue buildup on my plastic reels.
After the fix I rinse my film thoroughly on the reels, and my water may be different.
Do you have hard water? This might contribute to the problem.

There is a solution sold for cleaning photographic trays.
Coffee maker cleaner is a mild acid and might work as well.

If you find a simple solution please report back.

Chris
 
I mix vinegar and water 1:1 and leave the reels sit for about 15 minutes. Then I scrub them with a toothbrush.

Rinse in hot water, hot enough to make my fingers quake, and repeat.

So far that is all I have to do and the reels are smooth as new.

My wife tells me that an ammonia solution will work quicker but she won't sleep with me that night!

Never tried the ammonia bath. :D

EDIT - BTW, I set the vinegar soaking and scrubbing bowl under the stove top fan to keep the fumes from permeating the house too much.
 
I don't think I want to use ammonia either lol

My stovetop fan doesn't work, but that's a good idea.

My water is quite soft, but I'm sure the vinegar would deal with that anyway.

Acid, hot water and a scrubby toothbrush seem to be the agreed method, so I'll try it out and see how it goes. I have a roll of 35mm to be developed so I'll let you all know fairly soon.

Is it acceptable to dry out reels using a hairdryer?
 
I'm with Chris, and perhaps have just been lucky, but I've never had to wash my reels. Right after I pull my film off the reels I just give them a good rinsing in hot tap water and let them dry in the dish rack. I've never had an issue with chemical build-up, the reels binding, etc.
 
I suppose I can't guarantee that it's chemical build-up. I just know that they're becoming a real pain in the butt and I want to fix it somehow haha
 
Hi Jake,
I can tell you that, yes, it will be accumulated residue, easily fixed.
A few years ago I had similar problems. These days after I'm done processing I leave the reels in a tub of piping hot water with a few drops of dishwashing liquid for a while. As a bonus, the laundry I develop at is in a built in cupboard area with sink etc. I hang the films to dry on hooks inside the doors. So the steam from the hot water also helps the films to dry without dust spots. (I also use a filtered water supply and dust is usually negligible these days and I've had a few frames with—no spots—not one!)

Once the water has cooled enough to touch, I just scrub each reel with an ordinary, garden-variety nylon dishwashing scrubbing brush and rinse in clean running water before leaving to dry. It's quicker and easier than a toothbrush.

If you have films that are particularly problematic, you can run a bit of lead pencil around the inside of the spirals, ideally something fairly soft like a 2B. This will coat the spirals with a little graphite. I don't do it routinely but as I develop for other people sometimes I'm asked to process very old films. Old 120 and 620 rolls can be right mongrels to get on the reels—I think they take a set after decades of being tightly wrapped around the spool, particularly 620 ones. These days I'll use some pencil for such rolls as a matter of course. Last week I processed a bunch of ancient rolls, some of which had been exposed when JFK was still alive—seriously—and, with reels cleaned as above and a bit of graphite they all went on the reels first go. Keep at it, most of us have been there.
Cheers
Brett
 
One of the reasons why steel reels and steel tanks are the way to go. Of course there is a hoax about them being difficult to use, which has always been beyond my understandings. Steel reels will never cause you such problems, steel tanks won't break or crack over time, and steel tanks use less quantities of working solutions than plastic tanks.
 
Mine get a black build up, and really start to turn black all over after about 100 rolls. A quick scrub with vinegar and they're back to new. It's not that much effort once a year really.
 
I wash my paterson reels in hot water with a bit of detergent and give them a good scrub with a brush.
followed by a rinse in very hot water, flick off as much water as I can and then dry them with a towel as best I can.


Leaving water droplets to dry on the reel might not be the best idea. I'm lucky as the tap water here is very soft. so very little calcium deposits after drying.

I have had major binding issues with Superpan 200 film in 35mm for some reason. Other films would spool in fine, but Superpan 200 always seems to jump the rails and get creased.
 
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