Fotohuis
Well-known
I know the camera design is before WWII (Contax) and some features have been improved on this Kiev-4AM. The de-lock of the film is a de-alignment of the knob in the bottom release by turning 1/8 on the Red dot.
It has a middle X-contact on top. However the Sync is 1/25s only. The rewind knob you can extend. But why that focus lock? Is it to lock it before you have to detach the lens?
You can turn it too with your fingers but then you're blocking the second RF view and missing the focus field. So de-lock and turn on the lens itself then?
Well, they could not make an auto reset of the counter too but this is usual on any FSU RF camera.
And for some unknown reasons they "forgot" the 1s slow speed time, normally available on a Zorki/FED with slow speeds. OK you have "B" and with a cable release you can do this too.
At least you have strap lugs which disappeared on later Zorki/FED models. And the extra flash socket and self release on the front is still there.
What do you find of this Contax copy?
It has a middle X-contact on top. However the Sync is 1/25s only. The rewind knob you can extend. But why that focus lock? Is it to lock it before you have to detach the lens?
You can turn it too with your fingers but then you're blocking the second RF view and missing the focus field. So de-lock and turn on the lens itself then?
Well, they could not make an auto reset of the counter too but this is usual on any FSU RF camera.
And for some unknown reasons they "forgot" the 1s slow speed time, normally available on a Zorki/FED with slow speeds. OK you have "B" and with a cable release you can do this too.
At least you have strap lugs which disappeared on later Zorki/FED models. And the extra flash socket and self release on the front is still there.
What do you find of this Contax copy?
KoNickon
Nick Merritt
I like it more than many folks do -- quality control is variable, but overall it works, and the improvements (crank rewind, hotshoe for flash, larger wind know) are helpful.
I have never really gotten comfortable with using the focusing wheel on any Contax or Kiev. Just turn the lens itself; it's much easier. You won't block the rangefinder window if you're careful. (And for lenses that mount by means of the external mount, using the wheel is not recommended anyway.)
Yes, the focus lock enables you to change the normal lenses -- the ones using the internal mount. It's a feature of the Contax mount, which Kiev and later Nikon adopted.
I believe that, just like the Contax II which is the basis of the Kiev 4AM, 1 second is obtained by setting the shutter speed to B and then using the selftimer. I have not tried the Kiev but I expect it works the same way. Not too practical, but it is available.
I have never really gotten comfortable with using the focusing wheel on any Contax or Kiev. Just turn the lens itself; it's much easier. You won't block the rangefinder window if you're careful. (And for lenses that mount by means of the external mount, using the wheel is not recommended anyway.)
Yes, the focus lock enables you to change the normal lenses -- the ones using the internal mount. It's a feature of the Contax mount, which Kiev and later Nikon adopted.
I believe that, just like the Contax II which is the basis of the Kiev 4AM, 1 second is obtained by setting the shutter speed to B and then using the selftimer. I have not tried the Kiev but I expect it works the same way. Not too practical, but it is available.
Fotohuis
Well-known
Thanks so far for your insight information.
Robert
Robert
rbiemer
Unabashed Amateur
Robert,
Have you seen/read about the "Contax grip"? This feels a bit akward at first but does work fairly well;
Your right index finger is used for the shutter button and your right middle finger--yes the one used for that rude american gesture
-- is used to turn the focus wheel, which also tends to keep that finger above the RF window.
And, I think konikon is correct about the 1s speed on the 4am.
And, full disclosure here: I've not used a 4am, I owned (and liked) a '67 vintage 4a and still have a 4 that was repainted black and engraved as a fake Contax.
Rob
EDIT: here is a photo of it:
http://connealy.blogspot.com/2015/03/shooting-kiev-iia.html
Have you seen/read about the "Contax grip"? This feels a bit akward at first but does work fairly well;
Your right index finger is used for the shutter button and your right middle finger--yes the one used for that rude american gesture
-- is used to turn the focus wheel, which also tends to keep that finger above the RF window.And, I think konikon is correct about the 1s speed on the 4am.
And, full disclosure here: I've not used a 4am, I owned (and liked) a '67 vintage 4a and still have a 4 that was repainted black and engraved as a fake Contax.
Rob
EDIT: here is a photo of it:
http://connealy.blogspot.com/2015/03/shooting-kiev-iia.html
As I understand it (not having sourced additional lenses yet for my recently acquired Kiev) alternative lenses (Eg. telephotos) do not focus with the internal helicoid but with their own built in focus helicoid. Hence the body one must be locked to infinity when using these other lenses if they are to focus accurately. At least that is how I understand it, I'm certain other Kiev or Contax owners will correct me if this is not correct.
A working Kiev is bad for your financial health. It can lead to Contax ownership. I don't think I can stop it happening now...
A working Kiev is bad for your financial health. It can lead to Contax ownership. I don't think I can stop it happening now...
KoNickon
Nick Merritt
When you mount any lens on a Kiev (or Contax or Nikon rangefinder) that uses the external lens mount, you must make sure both it and the lens mount are turned to infinity. Mounting the lens releases the infinity lock, and so allows the lens to turn inside the internal mount (thus enabling the rangefinder mechanism to work accurately).
summar
Well-known
Sarcophilus is correct. The body helicoid must be locked to infinity before changing lenses. I've been using a Kiev 4a for years with the 50mm Jupiter 8 (focusing with the wheel) and 35mm Jupiter 12 (focusing by turning the lens helicoid). Not advisable to use the wheel to focus any lens but the 50mm. It's worthwhile checking out the manuals on Mike Butkus' website:
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/russian.htm
If you download a manual, he would gratefully receive a $3 donation, well deserved.
I've been resisting the Contax temptation. The Kiev is still working well, and the lenses are very good.
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/russian.htm
If you download a manual, he would gratefully receive a $3 donation, well deserved.
I've been resisting the Contax temptation. The Kiev is still working well, and the lenses are very good.
Fotohuis
Well-known
Thank you for all information. The basic manuals on Butkus.org I knew already from my other Russian RF cameras. The trick with "B" and use the self timer for the 1s timing I did not know for this Kiev-4AM. Clear to me now the "Contax" grip and to prevent disturbing the auxilary RF view.
Yes, some Jupiter lenses can be very good. I have a J-8 LTM and J-12 LTM and comparing them on a 40x50cm enlargement with my Leica -M glass is not that a big difference.
Yes, some Jupiter lenses can be very good. I have a J-8 LTM and J-12 LTM and comparing them on a 40x50cm enlargement with my Leica -M glass is not that a big difference.
Fotohuis
Well-known
At least the "trick" with "B" and use the self timer for 1s works. Also the X-contact works with electronic flash (Sunpak Pro 120J) and even the M-contact on the front with an Agfa ISI with 15V high tension battery and AG1 flash bulbs (Philips) works.
Next step: A Jupiter-9 F/2,0-85mm with Kiev/Contax bayonet.
Next step: A Jupiter-9 F/2,0-85mm with Kiev/Contax bayonet.
Fotohuis
Well-known
So far I like this camera. Together with also some Zorki-6 which I have, I think one of the best choices to start in F.S.U. R.F. cameras.
The same J-8 and J-12 from my Zorki LTM versions:
J-8 with Fomapan 200 E.I. 160 in Xtol 1+1.
J-12 with TMY-2 (Kodak) E.I. 320 in HC-110 (B).
Enlargement till 40x50cm in Split Grade:
And I forgot to tell you: Together with the Kiev-4AM and J-8M (both from 1980) I bought the stereo adapter (from 1956) for this camera, all together for a small price.
Some result on Fuji Superia 100 film:
The stereo glasses you can order for a very small price here in Germany. They have sent it for a small price (Eur. 1,95, airpack enveloppe) to Holland:
http://www.3d-foto-shop.de/pi10/index.htm
Enjoy using your cameras!
The same J-8 and J-12 from my Zorki LTM versions:
J-8 with Fomapan 200 E.I. 160 in Xtol 1+1.
J-12 with TMY-2 (Kodak) E.I. 320 in HC-110 (B).
Enlargement till 40x50cm in Split Grade:
And I forgot to tell you: Together with the Kiev-4AM and J-8M (both from 1980) I bought the stereo adapter (from 1956) for this camera, all together for a small price.
Some result on Fuji Superia 100 film:
The stereo glasses you can order for a very small price here in Germany. They have sent it for a small price (Eur. 1,95, airpack enveloppe) to Holland:
http://www.3d-foto-shop.de/pi10/index.htm
Enjoy using your cameras!
GWT
Established
Thanks for posting these!
I see your post as a sign - just last night I was eying my 1963 Kiev 4 and thinking 'I really should get some film in it and get it out'.
I brought it a few years back and picked up a Jupiter 12 to run along side the 8 it came with.
I've only ever put one roll through which was damaged by the processing machine I was so disappointed the camera has remained on my shelf ever since.
Time to get it back out!!!
I see your post as a sign - just last night I was eying my 1963 Kiev 4 and thinking 'I really should get some film in it and get it out'.
I brought it a few years back and picked up a Jupiter 12 to run along side the 8 it came with.
I've only ever put one roll through which was damaged by the processing machine
I was so disappointed the camera has remained on my shelf ever since. Time to get it back out!!!
So far I like this camera. Together with also some Zorki-6 which I have, I think one of the best choices to start in F.S.U. R.F. cameras.
The same J-8 and J-12 from my Zorki LTM versions:
J-8 with Fomapan 200 E.I. 160 in Xtol 1+1.
J-12 with TMY-2 (Kodak) E.I. 320 in HC-110 (B).
Enlargement till 40x50cm in Split Grade:
And I forgot to tell you: Together with the Kiev-4AM and J-8M (both from 1980) I bought the stereo adapter (from 1956) for this camera, all together for a small price.
Some result on Fuji Superia 100 film:
The stereo glasses you can order for a very small price here in Germany. They have sent it for a small price (Eur. 1,95, airpack enveloppe) to Holland:
http://www.3d-foto-shop.de/pi10/index.htm
Enjoy using your cameras!
Fotohuis
Well-known
Another test film, Kodak TMY-2 developed in HC-110 (B) done today. All tests with the color and Grey reference charts and Siemens star went very well. The camera is working really for 100% incl. that 1s "trick". Again, amazing how good these Jupiter lenses can be. The R.F. alignment and focus is on the spot. Really a nice camera and a joy to use it! Now I have put a Fuji Superia 100 color film in it. And I have used that stereo adapter. Then you have also an advantage of that focus wheel. For the coming weeks I will start up my ACP-252 Thermaphot and FEM-Kunze CFL-4012 color analyser and making some 8x10" RA-4 color prints. Will be continued .......
Fotohuis
Well-known
To give you any idea about my F.S.U. cameras and lenses tests:
Indeed on a Berlebach Report 8043 Ashwood tripod with 551 head. Made in Mulda, former DDR (East Germany). I have also a small one from them for macro:
http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl/documentatie/fotoforum052006.pdf
Indeed on a Berlebach Report 8043 Ashwood tripod with 551 head. Made in Mulda, former DDR (East Germany). I have also a small one from them for macro:
http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl/documentatie/fotoforum052006.pdf
Fotohuis
Well-known
With that Thermaphot you can run all regular roller processes (25cm wide, 2 bath, hence ACP-252) and it has an internal volume of 2x1,9 ltr. only:
or use my Nova Masterlab:
For posters I am using a Jobo paper drum on my Jobo CPA-2 with elevator:
I reburbished the machine myself. New elevator, "Easy rollers" installed (less torque) , replacement and modification of the re-circulation pump motor and device.
Well you must a bit handy in electronics of the 80's:
Nothing special, easy to repair.
But you can also order a new one, CPP-3:
But those prices: Almost doubled in 7 years time till Jobo stopped producing their last model CPP-2.
Fortunately I was really lucky with my CPA-2 "made in the Federal Republic of Germany", so before 1989. It was a for free unit in a good shape. So my investments of upgrades and new stuff was relativ cheap.
For B&W I prefer to use my Heiland TAS inverse robot processor. It can also handle all Jobo tanks (1510-1520-1540, 2521). Really nice especially for long developing times:
http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl/documentatie/TAS_Flyer_D.pdf
Well at least it keeps you from the street!
or use my Nova Masterlab:
For posters I am using a Jobo paper drum on my Jobo CPA-2 with elevator:
I reburbished the machine myself. New elevator, "Easy rollers" installed (less torque) , replacement and modification of the re-circulation pump motor and device.
Well you must a bit handy in electronics of the 80's:
Nothing special, easy to repair.
But you can also order a new one, CPP-3:
But those prices: Almost doubled in 7 years time till Jobo stopped producing their last model CPP-2.
Fortunately I was really lucky with my CPA-2 "made in the Federal Republic of Germany", so before 1989. It was a for free unit in a good shape. So my investments of upgrades and new stuff was relativ cheap.
For B&W I prefer to use my Heiland TAS inverse robot processor. It can also handle all Jobo tanks (1510-1520-1540, 2521). Really nice especially for long developing times:
http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl/documentatie/TAS_Flyer_D.pdf
Well at least it keeps you from the street!
Fotohuis
Well-known
A few last results on Fomabrom Variant 111 paper, dried on the hot press:
So like this:
So like this:
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Jam a fragment of matchstick or toothpick into the infinity lock that is activated by lenses mounted on the outer bayonet. The other infinity lock (on the finger wheel) is simultaneously disabled. I NEVER try to use a Contax or Kiev and a standard inner-bayonet 50mm lens without doing this. This also makes it easy to focus just by turning the lens, though the focusing wheel then spins around and can rasp your finger. The fix is easily reversed.
A clean, well-lubricated focusing train can be a revelation, though: often, they are so gummed up and stiff as to be effectively unusable.
Cheers,
R.
A clean, well-lubricated focusing train can be a revelation, though: often, they are so gummed up and stiff as to be effectively unusable.
Cheers,
R.
jbielikowski
Jan Bielikowski
I don't know what finder you are using but one for Altix/Altissa makes a perfect combo with Jupiters, as it has masks for 35/50/90mm lenses. It look mighty good and its dead easy to clean inside.
Fotohuis
Well-known
I have a Turret finder but I also have an Olympus VF-1 finder for 35mm. Alternative I can use a Fotoman finder with changeble masks.
Turret.
VF-1.
Fotoman.
Turret.
VF-1.
Fotoman.