Ronald_H
Don't call me Ron
Ok, I have been developing for about 9 months now. Things mostly work out pretty well.
BUT... my last roll was a disaster. No matter what I tried, I could not get the film onto the reel without kinking. I tried different reels, most of them not used for ages so bone dry. Film was bog standard HP5+. I use Paterson system 4 tanks and reels, of which I have plenty.
In fact I can't think of any reason why this particular rol was so much trouble. I had to wrestle with it in the changing bag so long it is completely ruined, big big scratches everywhere
Looks like one of my very first rolls.
So how do I get my reels smooth and clean? Any other suggestions?
BUT... my last roll was a disaster. No matter what I tried, I could not get the film onto the reel without kinking. I tried different reels, most of them not used for ages so bone dry. Film was bog standard HP5+. I use Paterson system 4 tanks and reels, of which I have plenty.
In fact I can't think of any reason why this particular rol was so much trouble. I had to wrestle with it in the changing bag so long it is completely ruined, big big scratches everywhere
Looks like one of my very first rolls.So how do I get my reels smooth and clean? Any other suggestions?
sockeyed
Well-known
Look on the grooves where the film sits and see if there's chemical build-up. I periodically take a bamboo skewer and run it along where the film sits on the reels; it really smoothes things out a lot.
Also, have you tried cutting the lead corners of your film at 45 degree angles? Just taking off the sharp edge off can make film run a lot more smoothly too.
Also, have you tried cutting the lead corners of your film at 45 degree angles? Just taking off the sharp edge off can make film run a lot more smoothly too.
Thardy
Veteran
Look at this thread from a few days ago.
http://rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63827
I now clean the reels very well before each use. I also make sure they are completely dry. I think rounding the corners of the film was the biggest factor in getting the film to load correctly though.
http://rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63827
I now clean the reels very well before each use. I also make sure they are completely dry. I think rounding the corners of the film was the biggest factor in getting the film to load correctly though.
Ronald_H
Don't call me Ron
rlouzan
Well-known
stuken
Established
To put it bluntly, its not the reels, its you. There should be no chemicals left on the reels after your rinse bath, and if there is, that means there is still chemicals on your film as well. Photoflo will eventually gum up the ball bearings a litte (I stress little) and if you're really worried rinse them after you photoflo. Personally, sometimes I do, sometimes I dont, it never makes any difference. Sometimes you just get a roll of film thats a pain in ass, just be patience, and if need be recut your film to make it feed onto the reel easier.
Sisyphus
Sisyphus
Hi, You should use stainless steel reels. I noticed a long time ago, when I was young and innocent, that no matter how much I cleaned those plastic reels, gunk would build up on them. I stopped using them and went to stainless steel, which also help to keep the temperature of the developer more consistant when you process.
I like the Hewes Reels, with the two prongs sticking out; they are also a bit thincker gauge steel. They are more expensive than other reels, but they are 1000 or even a a million times easier and quicker to load, and they don't ever get bent out of shape, no matter how frustrated you get.
Good Luck!
I like the Hewes Reels, with the two prongs sticking out; they are also a bit thincker gauge steel. They are more expensive than other reels, but they are 1000 or even a a million times easier and quicker to load, and they don't ever get bent out of shape, no matter how frustrated you get.
Good Luck!
Solinar
Analog Preferred
I've used both and have had the same set of plastic reels for 8 years. After the photoflow, I soak them in hot water for about 10 minutes and that's all the cleaning they received.
Before loading the reels, I make doubly sure that the check balls move freely in their tracks and the reel is bone dry.
I also round the corners of the leader end of the film before loading. I'm so used to this step - that it is all part my consciousness while loading multiple reels in total darkness.
Before loading the reels, I make doubly sure that the check balls move freely in their tracks and the reel is bone dry.
I also round the corners of the leader end of the film before loading. I'm so used to this step - that it is all part my consciousness while loading multiple reels in total darkness.
dedmonds
Established
can the stainless reels really be easier to load? how steep is the learning curve?
luketrash
Trying to find my range
You guys are slobs if your reels are gumming up
I am working on 300+ rolls of film through both of my plastic Paterson reels with no issues. I cut my film straight across and never have any trouble loading 35mm or 120 film.
I always PULL my film through and past the balls to lock in place. I find that's the critical difference of friends I've watched tried to jam their film through by pushing it in and bending up the leader.
My last step when developing is to leave the film in the reels during the water rinse. I take the film OUT of them to put into photo flo. I hate getting soapy residue for my next batch, which causes air bubbles. So my reels never see any photo flo.
Anyway, as mentioned above, the water rinse is plenty of cleaning for them. I use a terry cloth towel to dry them and use my mouth to blow water out from the steel ball area. Otherwise they just air dry. I should state that the water here is pretty neutral.. No minerals, works good for photography, etc...
The classroom reels I used that were bad almost always had physical damage to them. Since mine live at home, they are treated nicely.
Cutting small notches out of the corner should help out. If not, just buy two new plastic reels. They are like 6 bucks a pop. Don't use generic Arista ones.
Steel reels are harder to load than plastic ones. If you can train yourself to load steel reels, you can easily train yourself to load plastic reels. The reason I use Paterson is because I love the giant opening in the top. Way quicker to pour chemicals in/out than any steel tanks I've ever used.
My advice to Ronald is to carefully examine your reel tracks for physical damage. A little ding in them will stop film dead in its tracks.
I am working on 300+ rolls of film through both of my plastic Paterson reels with no issues. I cut my film straight across and never have any trouble loading 35mm or 120 film.
I always PULL my film through and past the balls to lock in place. I find that's the critical difference of friends I've watched tried to jam their film through by pushing it in and bending up the leader.
My last step when developing is to leave the film in the reels during the water rinse. I take the film OUT of them to put into photo flo. I hate getting soapy residue for my next batch, which causes air bubbles. So my reels never see any photo flo.
Anyway, as mentioned above, the water rinse is plenty of cleaning for them. I use a terry cloth towel to dry them and use my mouth to blow water out from the steel ball area. Otherwise they just air dry. I should state that the water here is pretty neutral.. No minerals, works good for photography, etc...
The classroom reels I used that were bad almost always had physical damage to them. Since mine live at home, they are treated nicely.
Cutting small notches out of the corner should help out. If not, just buy two new plastic reels. They are like 6 bucks a pop. Don't use generic Arista ones.
Steel reels are harder to load than plastic ones. If you can train yourself to load steel reels, you can easily train yourself to load plastic reels. The reason I use Paterson is because I love the giant opening in the top. Way quicker to pour chemicals in/out than any steel tanks I've ever used.
My advice to Ronald is to carefully examine your reel tracks for physical damage. A little ding in them will stop film dead in its tracks.
Michiel Fokkema
Michiel Fokkema
If my reels load badly I put them in the dishwasher. That does the trick most of the time. If they still dirty I soak them in hot water with dishwasher detergent overnight. That really gets them clean.
Cheers,
Michiel Fokkema
Cheers,
Michiel Fokkema
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
I would also suggest the stainless steel reel. It cleans easily and it reels easily (I only "sacrificed" one rolls to get the hang of it).
dng88
Dennis
For loading 120 film, stainless steel is better as it is easier to get those leader in (or trap). But it is hard to keep the edge not bended. For 35mm, stainless steel is a pain.
FallisPhoto
Veteran
Undilluted distilled white vinegar and a toothbrush. Rinse with distilled water. The white vinegar is an acid and will help loosen things like water spots (which are mineral deposits -- mostly lime) and any chemistry that might have dried on. The toothbrush finishes up the job by breaking it loose, and the distilled water flushes it away.
FallisPhoto
Veteran
I think that getting 35mm film started in steel reels is more difficult than starting it in plastic reels. However, I think that winding it into plastic reels, once you get it started, is faster. With 120, the whole process is easier for me to do with steel reels. This is assuming that your steel reels are perfectly straight and clean. The slightest ding can make them a horror to use though.
Later:
To clarify: Steel reels are a little bit difficult to get the film centered on when you first start it. Once you get it started, provided you are using unbent reels, and provided you know what you're doing, your problems are over. I don't think steel reels are any more difficult to use with 120 than they are with 35mm.
Plastic reels are difficult to get started with 120 film (but they are easy with 35mm), and if everything is all right, then they load faster after getting started. Another advantage to plastic is that one reel will work for 35mm, 126, 828, 127 and 120 film. A disadvantage is that the tanks that hold the reels are bigger and use more chemistry. Another advantage is that the tanks can be used as film washers.
Plastic reels can be impossible to load if there is the slightest nick in the reel, and something as simple as water spots can cause them to jam. On some brands, the steel ballbearings that act as ratchets can rust and become useless. Steel reels still can be loaded, even if bent and nicked, but it is a rather severe PITA.
All things considered, I think steel reels are more reliable and cause less problems, unless you drop them. I think plastic reels are faster, but to keep them reliable requires finicky care.
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Trius
Waiting on Maitani
I agree with Fallis regarding the vinegar cleaning, and also that SS are easier once you get the film started. I hate plastic reels ... with a passion. Plastic and film base just do not mix, IMO. Think about the chemical and physical properties involved!
titrisol
Bottom Feeder
use an old toothbrush from time to time to clean them
if they are still dirty make a paste with baking soda (bicarbonate) and water and use the tootbrush to clean the grooves
Rinse with warm water
if they are still dirty make a paste with baking soda (bicarbonate) and water and use the tootbrush to clean the grooves
Rinse with warm water
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
I used to think so, but after I found out the one thing that I need to pay attention to, it's easy since then.
What's that one thing? it's the direction the reel is facing when you start spooling. On my reel, the correct way is when it's facing to my right. Meaning the ends of the groove on the reel should be "pointing" to my right. NOTE: Not all reels are created equal, examine yours first.
If I don't do this, it's next to impossible to reel the film without mangling the edges.