How to make a contact sheet using a 35mm film scanner

Arjay

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I'd like to create a DIN A4 page of film image thumbnails as a "contact sheet".

Does anybody know a way to acquire film thumbnails and to assemble them to a contact sheet? I'm thinking of a dedicated software or a script which I could use with Nikon Scan or Vuescan.

I own a Coolscan V ED 35mm film scanner.
 
I'd like to create a DIN A4 page of film image thumbnails as a "contact sheet".
......
It sounds to me like you are intending to gather shots from different films or film strips into a contact sheet presenting these shots in consecutive film strips.
I haven´t tried this myself, but it seems to me that it should be fairly easy to make a contact sheet with a scanner from strips in a Print File sheet or something like that, and then replace the individual frames with picture files that you want to be there, in Photoshop for instance.
Of course you do need to have a flatbed scanner that is able to make a scan of transparent material, to make the contact sheet template for this. Or you could nick the template from some web page - I´m sure there are scanned contact sheets lying around somewhere on the Internet.
 
I remember seeing a free software several years ago that did what you want. I think I even have it saved somewhere, but don't know where. You might try google if you haen't already. It wasn't great, but it worked. If I have a chance I will try to find it and if I do, I will post here again.
 
Photoshop can do that, forgot where exactly, search the help section...
IView is also a decent program for archiving files, fast and convienient. couldnt live without, and it has a simple tool to make contakt sheets as PDF, you can print them or send them online.
 
Thank you for your responses. I consulted Google and found references to ImageMagick, ACDSee and InfraView - all of which are image archiving and viewing programs without any noteworthy integration of scanning hard/software.

It seems that I didn't specify clearly enough what I meant:

When I have my film developed at my local drugstore, I receive 9x13cm prints of every frame and a mini contact sheet by default. I use the prints to determine which frame is worth a scan and mark them in the mini contact sheet. Neat - but too expensive in the long run.

I'd like to find a workflow that lets me duplicate this approach for home-developed film. I want to use the contact sheets both as an aide memoire for computer storage (contact sheet image in pic sub-directory), as well as a physical note to archive it together with my negatives.

My Coolscan V can take a film strip and produce preview scans. NikonScan doesn't save these previews, but it appears that Vuescan can. I'd imagine, then, that some kind of software might take these preview pics and compile the previews of all the strips that make up a film into a low-res contact sheet. I could then archive the sheet's image file and/or print it as a physical contact sheet. I'm looking for a solution that could do this at the simple click of a button (including sheet layout, maybe preconfigured) without any complicated procedures

Has anybody heard of a software that can do that?
 
A piece of glass, an overhead lightbulb with a pull cord, a safe light and three trays. You don't even need an enlarger. You can always scan the contact sheet.
 
Thank you for your comment, Al.

Hehe - i had already been waiting for such a comment.

Please don't be offended, but I'm not planning to install a darkroom and get into silver halide chemistry when I have almost all tools at hand - a 35mm film scanner and a computer.
 
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Then don't call it a "contact sheet". The negatives never contacted the paper. The old fashioned method produced contact sheets that have held up well for half a century and the images seem to have more resolution than I get on the computer generated "thumbnails".

Actually the images on the contact sheets still have a lot if resolution. Lately I've been scanning frames from the contacts to use on my blog. It's a lot faster than digging out the negatives from my files and printing them. The only problem is that a lot of dust got printed on those contact sheets.
 
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Not sure this would be helpful to you, but when I develop a roll of B&W (or get C-41, develop only at the lab), I photograph the negs on a light box I picked up for $20 with my 12MP dSLR. I then have a "contact sheet" file which I can go to 1:1 in software, adjust levels customized for each frame while I'm perusing, and decide which frames I want to spend time scanning. It would be just as easy to print the "contact sheet" for archiving with your negs, and it even looks like a real analogue contact sheet. There is some distortion on the negs due to the curl as I don't use a glass plate to flatten the negs - I stop down to get everything in acceptable focus.

Not great quality, but as I said, I use this technique to just identify frames for scanning and also to have a record of every frame even if I don't scan it. It takes me about 1min to lay out the negs, snap a photo, and then transfer it to my computer.

I know you wanted to use your scanner, and I also initially searched for what you are asking in this thread, but I found this method to be faster and I liked the look of the "contacts" with film edges visible to identify film and frame. I usually only have 2-3 frames I want to scan at full resolution per roll so it's a waste of time for me to preview/scan every frame on my scanner (Coolscan V is slow).

Please see attached for full frame 36exp roll and a 1:1 crop of a single frame.
 

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Another approach - modify your SA-21 to do the entire roll, or get a modified SA-21 or an SA-30 for your coolscan. Do develop only at the lab, then on the Coolscan start the uncut roll, scan all of it, come back in 45 minutes, you have scans of all shots, cost is only the developing. Actual time is next to nothing with whole-roll scanning.

If you want an index sheet use Photoshop.
 
If you are using Windows there is an easy way to do this on standard Letter sized paper. It works with XP at least.

Simply put all of the scans, any resolution, in the same folder. Select the desired images and Right-click to produce a menu. Select Print from the menu to access the printing wizard. Step through the wizard's panels and when you get to the one for selecting print size scroll down and you will find on that prints 35 images per page under a heading "Contact Sheet". Select it and continue through the wizard. The resulting print will have 35 images per page with the filenames printed under each image.
 
Another approach - modify your SA-21 to do the entire roll, or get a modified SA-21 or an SA-30 for your coolscan. Do develop only at the lab, then on the Coolscan start the uncut roll, scan all of it, come back in 45 minutes, you have scans of all shots, cost is only the developing. Actual time is next to nothing with whole-roll scanning.

If you want an index sheet use Photoshop.

The OP has a Coolscan V. The modified SA-21 apparently works for the 5000 & 9000, but not the V. I just did a quick search and found a couple of comments confirming that, but no details. I looked into this when I bought my V, and decided that the automation possible with the 5000 was too expensive for what I do.
 
... I photograph the negs on a light box I picked up for $20 with my 12MP dSLR. I then have a "contact sheet" file which I can go to 1:1 in software, adjust levels customized for each frame while I'm perusing, and decide which frames I want to spend time scanning. It would be just as easy to print the "contact sheet" for archiving with your negs, and it even looks like a real analogue contact sheet. ...

Not great quality, but as I said, I use this technique to just identify frames for scanning and also to have a record of every frame even if I don't scan it. It takes me about 1min to lay out the negs, snap a photo, and then transfer it to my computer.

I know you wanted to use your scanner, ... but I found this method to be faster and I liked the look of the "contacts" with film edges visible to identify film and frame. I usually only have 2-3 frames I want to scan at full resolution per roll so it's a waste of time for me to preview/scan every frame on my scanner (Coolscan V is slow). ...

Brilliant idea - this is even better than what I envisioned!

So, now I need a light box (and some copy stand). I've seen some in my local photo shop, with calibrated LED illumination , at prices only suitable for rich collectors or heavy-duty professional users. That's probably not the way for me.

Can anybody here suggest links to light box DIY projects?
 
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Not with the 9000 (or 8000) but with the 4000 and 5000. That`s why I decided for an 4000, same quality as the V, possibility to scan with the SA-30 and the scanner was a lot cheaper than a 5000. :)


The OP has a Coolscan V. The modified SA-21 apparently works for the 5000 & 9000, but not the V. I just did a quick search and found a couple of comments confirming that, but no details. I looked into this when I bought my V, and decided that the automation possible with the 5000 was too expensive for what I do.
 
Digital Contact Sheets

Digital Contact Sheets

From Film to Digital Print Via Linux​
Observations on Digital Printing of Black and White Film Photography
by Stephen Harris, 2009.​


  1. Work Flow Goals

    A. Reasonable camera costs
    B. Reliable archive storage
    C. Digital fine art printing
    D. As little use of Windows, Apple, and Adobe software as possible.

    The goal is to be able to process black and white film, and print digitally using open source (Linux) software and where possible avoid the expensive programs and upgrades when committed to Windows, MAC, and Adobe. A second goal is to avoid constantly upgrading cameras, and use less expensive cameras when traveling or shooting on the street.
  2. Film Negatives:
    Create the negatives using FujiFilm Neopan 400, Professional film, or other film. The negatives are not cut. Rolls are stored, without sleeves in 8” x 10” boxes with dividers made out of matte board. The lid of the box can be ruled in a grid, and information written about the rolls.

    Cameras used include:
    a. Leica M3 w/ 28mm 2.8, 50mm 1.4, 35mm 1.4, or 90mm 2.8;
    b. Praktica LB w/ pentax 50mm 1.5; Very inexpensive choice when in high risk areas.
    c. Fuji gs645S, (Lightweight, medium format rangefinder street camera)
    d. Rollei 35 S (Small light camera with a full 35mm negative)
    e. Hasselblad film cameras C, CW, and/or EL/M

    The film is developed locally when traveling or in D-76.
  3. From Negative to Digital
    Any high quality, digital SLR can be used. In this case, the negatives are copied to digital using a digital camera and enlarging lenses. Leica R8, with a DMR back, or a Canon EOS 30D, and a Leica Focotar 60mm lens, or Rodenstock 75mm APO D lens.
The light source is either the Bowens Illumitan slide copier, or a flash 238 Vivitar
variable flash. Film is copied emulsion side up to the camera.


  1. Zork (www.zoerk.com) sells the components to adapt an enlarging lens to a 35 mm digital SLR camera. The Leica R8 with the DMR digital Leica back attached has less than full-frame sensor. Zork supplies an adapter for Leica R, their “Zork Mini Makro, and an adapter to thread the Rodenstock 75mm Apo-Rodagon D lens into the Mini Makro. The Mini Makro allow the enlarging lens to be focused so that it covers from 35m to medium format negatives.

    The APO-Rodagon-D is not necessarily an enlarging lens, but optimized for near 1:1 reproduction ratios, for purposes such as duplication of transparencies, or preparation of internegatives. It is a 6-element, 4-group designs, and optimum f-stop is 2 stops below maximum aperture (f8). The APO-Rodagon-D 1x 75 mm f/4 (for 6×6 cm) and APO-Rodagon-D 2x 75 mm f/4.5 (for 6×7 cm, optimized for 1.2x-2.5x reproduction) . The APO-Rodagon-R is optimized for 1:1 reproduction ratio (APO-Rodagon-R 75 mm f/4 ).
Use an ND material (neutral density, gray filter) in sheet form, between the light source and the negative, to adjust the intensity of the flash. You cut any size ND filter, and it is very inexpensive to purchase a large sheet. You can just keep adding layers and opening up the lens, until you get the aperture you want. It probably works better than trying to mount an ND filter on an enlarging lens. One can also change the number of sheets to compensate for the density of the negatives, and maintain the aperture. The Bowens illumitran slide duplicator has a knob that adjusts the flash intensity, and a system to meter the exposure, which also helps speed up the process. Since the Illumitran was built for ASA 50 or slower duplicating film the light intensity needs to be reduced to obtain the optimum aperture. The manufacture or others may have already worked out the best aperture for the lens.


One of the major advantages of this system, compared to scanning, is that once the system is setup, it is possible to get digital (computer screen) proofs of over 10 to 12, or more, rolls of 35mm – 36 exposure film in a day.
  1. Digital Raw Processing Negative Images:
    The negatives or slides are copied with the DSLR using Raw and the digital files processed with BibblePro.
    In BibblePro, the images are converted from negative to positive by using the curve feature. They are then adjusted for exposure and contrast, sharpened and noise reduction applied.
  2. Post Processing:
    GIMP is an open source software program, with functions similar to Photoshop, which allows photo manipulation. Photos can be cleaned of dust and scratches, toned for printing, curves applied, etc. Images can rotated, flipped (necessary when negatives are reproduced with emulsion side toward the camera.) It is provided free as part of the Mandriva operating system and most Linux operating systems. Upgrades are also free.
  3. Refining the Image Choices:

    The proof sheets have 12 images to an 8x10 or 8.5x11 page. This corresponds to a full roll of 120 or 3 sheets for a 36 exposure 35mm roll.

    a. Create digital Proof Sheets, using Photoshop, or GIMP if working on a MAC. (For Photoshop, I use File > Automate > Contact Sheet II, with a setting of 3x4, 7.65, 10.15)

    b. When working in Linux, proof sheets can be made as a jpg file using ImageMagick. Copy flat tiff files to a folder. Then open a terminal window and cd (change directory command) to the file. The following code will produce proof sheets (multiple) 7.188"x10.3" at 240 dpi. <montage -geometry 575x575 -density 240x240 -tile 3x4 -label '%f' *.tif proofs.jpg>. Imagemagick will create a multiple proof sheets with 12 photos to a sheet, file names below, in jpg format which can be then opened in Gimp, and printed on 8.5” x 11” paper.

    c. When printing the contact sheets 3 up on a 24” wide epson printer, 24w x 11h paper setting use a MAC and the ImageNest layout program. Or, print on 8-1/2 x 11 sheets on a Epson R2400.

    d. The proof sheets are then punched and placed in a spiral bound notebook for each negative file box.
  4. Clean-up and Tinting using GIMP:
    GIMP the “clone” tool in GIMP can remove dust and scratches. Other techniques used in Photoshop can also be used with GIMP. A set of on-line tutorials for GIMP is at http://www.gimpguru.org/Tutorials. There is an excellent one on sepia toning.
  5. Printing Final Images:
a. Using a Epson 7600, the prints are make with a MAC, running QuadTone Rip,
and the ImageNest layout program.


b. For printing in Linux, prints can be made from GIMP, through a TurboPrint control plugin,
to control final ink density, contrast and toning.


  1. Conclusion:

    It is possible to use a workflow for black and white photography which does not depend on Windows, Apple, or Adobe software. This can lower the cost significantly for the casual, hobby or dedicated amateur photographer. It works well where no one but the photographer is paying the costs.

It also results in a negative file archive, allowing for the production of traditional silver gelatin prints in the future, or drum scans, if desired. However, the process does allow for the production of excellent 16' x 20' prints from Tri-X and other film negatives.


In addition to the software, one needs a computer, printer, at least one film camera, and digital SLR, with a bellows and enlarging lens. A Bowens Illumitran cost about $100-200 on e-bay. So why do this, and not just shoot on the digital camera? This system results in a film archive and avoids carrying an expensive DSLR on the street.

Prints can be digital or traditional silver gelatin. Also, it allows the full digital workflow using a Linux based system, for those wishing to skip the film step.








Reference Sources and Links:


Mandriva (Linux Operating System)
$89.00​
www.mandriva.com




BibblePro (Raw Digital Processor)
$159.95​
www.bibblelabs.com




GIMP (A Photoshop like program for Linux, Windows and MAC)
Free Open Source​
www.gimp.org

http://www.gimp.org/tutorials/




TurboPrint for Linux (A printer management program for Linux, but theEpson 7600 is not supported)
60 Euros​
www.zedonet.com




ImageMagick (A powerful image tool for Linux)
Free open source​
www.imagemagick.org




The following software is not needed for the Linux workflow, however it is useful when printing with a Mac on the Epson 7600:

QuadTone Rip (A printer control program dedicated to black & white printing which runs in Windows and MAC, but no Linux version)
$50.00​
Shareware price​
www.quadtonerip.com




ImageNest (Layout Rip for MAC and Epson 7600 Printer and wide range of printers, no Linux version yet. The 7600 version costs almost $400)
$99.00​
Epson R2400​
www.bluecubit.com
 
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