nzhang
Member
Hi, I just bought a Nikkor-o 2.1cm from KEH, and plan to use it on my Nikon F2. However, I have some hard time to mount it on the camera. When I finally managed to mount it on, I found that the aparture index white dot is at 2o'clock position (aligned with the red mounting dot), instead of at 12 o'clock position. Another thing is that I found some play in both aperture and focus ring. I dodn't know if it is normal for this lense. I will shoot some film tomorrow to see how it works. Thanks.
1948nikon
Established
Mounting 21mm
Mounting 21mm
It is normal for the aperture setting to be at 2 oclock reason for this is that if it was at 12 oclock it would be obstructed by a photomic head.
Fo first time users ensure that the lens is correctley mounted, open the back of the camera fire the shutter on T setting and check the alignment of the rear elements . There are two straight edges on the rear shrouding of the 21mm .The top one whish is the longest of the two should align with the top film rail the smaller one which is usually cut away aligns with the bottom rail..
Before mounting the lens for the first time ensure the locating lug is in fact there this is is held in place with two screws and I have seen some lenses where the lug has been removed. This lens will only mount on F F2 and some Nikkormats as they have the the locating pin at about 11 oclock.
Golden Rule # 1 lock the mirror up.
Golden Rule # 2 set aperture at f4
Golden rule # 3 set focus at minimum focus point
Golden rule #4 align mounting dots and turn breech lock.
There should be no sloppy focus or play in the aperture control.
Mounting 21mm
It is normal for the aperture setting to be at 2 oclock reason for this is that if it was at 12 oclock it would be obstructed by a photomic head.
Fo first time users ensure that the lens is correctley mounted, open the back of the camera fire the shutter on T setting and check the alignment of the rear elements . There are two straight edges on the rear shrouding of the 21mm .The top one whish is the longest of the two should align with the top film rail the smaller one which is usually cut away aligns with the bottom rail..
Before mounting the lens for the first time ensure the locating lug is in fact there this is is held in place with two screws and I have seen some lenses where the lug has been removed. This lens will only mount on F F2 and some Nikkormats as they have the the locating pin at about 11 oclock.
Golden Rule # 1 lock the mirror up.
Golden Rule # 2 set aperture at f4
Golden rule # 3 set focus at minimum focus point
Golden rule #4 align mounting dots and turn breech lock.
There should be no sloppy focus or play in the aperture control.
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nzhang
Member
Thanks for the help, now I know how to mount this lens correctly. I must say it is one of best looking lenses in Nikon F line, and make a F2 slim, lean and zen-looking. The lens is just 1 inch in length outside of the mount, about the same length as a 35mm M-summicron. Does anyone tried to use a adaptor to use it on a Leica M camera?
1948nikon
Established
Leica adapter
Leica adapter
There is no locking pin on the Leica Adapter to lock the lens in place.
The locking lug or pin is only on the Nikon F, F2 and some Nikkormats. It is possible to force mount the 21mm on the Leica adapter or for that matter on a Nikon F3 with mirror lock up but the rear of the lens will be damaged because the lens will be free to rotate..
The mounting system of the f4 21mm Nikkor is different to all other Nikon mounts.
Leica adapter
nzhang said:
There is no locking pin on the Leica Adapter to lock the lens in place.
The locking lug or pin is only on the Nikon F, F2 and some Nikkormats. It is possible to force mount the 21mm on the Leica adapter or for that matter on a Nikon F3 with mirror lock up but the rear of the lens will be damaged because the lens will be free to rotate..
The mounting system of the f4 21mm Nikkor is different to all other Nikon mounts.
nzhang
Member
I just finished a roll of tri-x, and I must say it is a true classic lens with its own characteristics. At f4 there is not details and the contrast is median to low, but start at f5.6 the details or mirco contrast show up; at f11 it is sharp and contrast. There is no distortion and flare is well controlled. The charactor is not like other nikon lenses I have, but very close to my 70's pre-ASPH summilux 35mm. I don't have a viewfinder yet, and guess framing and focus. I do have a buble level on top of F2 meter head. It is kind of true rangefinder photography experience, visualization in the brain and hope the best of the result.
The first one is me and my daughter lens at f4 and camera on a tripod; the second is at f5.6; and the third is at f11.
The first one is me and my daughter lens at f4 and camera on a tripod; the second is at f5.6; and the third is at f11.
Attachments
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nzhang
Member
VinceC
Veteran
Thanks for posting. It's good to see images from this lens. The RF and SLR versions are optically identical.
normclarke
normclarke
Hi All,
I had this combo about 10yrs past and found it to be a 'killer'. I had a Leica adaptor made and used it successfully on both Nikon and Leica. I sold this and a Canon 19mm wide when I puchased a S.A. 3.4 which outperformed both of these lenses. I must admit though the Nikon was very close to the S.A. No problems with mounting on both the Leica and Nikon.
Cheers,
normclarke.
I had this combo about 10yrs past and found it to be a 'killer'. I had a Leica adaptor made and used it successfully on both Nikon and Leica. I sold this and a Canon 19mm wide when I puchased a S.A. 3.4 which outperformed both of these lenses. I must admit though the Nikon was very close to the S.A. No problems with mounting on both the Leica and Nikon.
Cheers,
normclarke.
normclarke
normclarke
Hi,
Correct.
Best,
normclarke
Correct.
Best,
normclarke