lrochfort
Well-known
Hello all,
I'm completely new to scanning film and digital processing, but have developed and printed in the dark room a reasonable amount in the past.
I just scanned a few 120 B&W negs on a V600 kindly donated by my father-in-law. On the whole I'm happy, but several of the images were challenging because they were taken in flat low brightness light and poorly exposed and focussed on my part!
I'm struggling to understand how to get the best from these images. All I'm ending up with is sludgy grey images. A lot of this is the nature of the image, but still feel like I could get more from then.
Would people be good enough to take a look at the linked image and suggest how you would approach scanning and processing it?
I scanned the image as a 16bit greyscale, 6400dpi, no ICE with manual exposure. I used the rubbish bin and some part of the sky as the extremes for the histogram.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B46HjuTGjmM0VUZlMDBYVlYzbEk/edit?usp=sharing
Thanks all!
I'm completely new to scanning film and digital processing, but have developed and printed in the dark room a reasonable amount in the past.
I just scanned a few 120 B&W negs on a V600 kindly donated by my father-in-law. On the whole I'm happy, but several of the images were challenging because they were taken in flat low brightness light and poorly exposed and focussed on my part!
I'm struggling to understand how to get the best from these images. All I'm ending up with is sludgy grey images. A lot of this is the nature of the image, but still feel like I could get more from then.
Would people be good enough to take a look at the linked image and suggest how you would approach scanning and processing it?
I scanned the image as a 16bit greyscale, 6400dpi, no ICE with manual exposure. I used the rubbish bin and some part of the sky as the extremes for the histogram.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B46HjuTGjmM0VUZlMDBYVlYzbEk/edit?usp=sharing
Thanks all!
ashfaque
Learning
See Chris's wonderful notes http://chriscrawfordphoto.com/technical/index.php 
Somewhat related, in the following video, (possibly in the last 1/3,) you'll see he covers some of the details of fine tuning your image using Adove Photoshop.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ot_vVjlBLmk
Bests,
Ashfaque
Somewhat related, in the following video, (possibly in the last 1/3,) you'll see he covers some of the details of fine tuning your image using Adove Photoshop.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ot_vVjlBLmk
Bests,
Ashfaque
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Ashfaque, thanks for mentioning my site!
To the OP: Scans from negatives are almost always very dead and flat looking. This is normal; the scanner is made to capture the much wider density range of color slide film, so when you scan a neg, the scan looks flat. You just have to boost the contrast in Photoshop to bring it back up to normal.
To the OP: Scans from negatives are almost always very dead and flat looking. This is normal; the scanner is made to capture the much wider density range of color slide film, so when you scan a neg, the scan looks flat. You just have to boost the contrast in Photoshop to bring it back up to normal.
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.

Image straight from the scanner.

After using curves adjustments in Photoshop. I often have to use multiple curves adjustments to get the tonality perfect. My site has a curves tutorial if you don't know how to use them. A lot of people are intimidated by the Curves tool, but it isn't hard to use once you try it.
lrochfort
Well-known
![]()
Image straight from the scanner.
![]()
After using curves adjustments in Photoshop. I often have to use multiple curves adjustments to get the tonality perfect. My site has a curves tutorial if you don't know how to use them. A lot of people are intimidated by the Curves tool, but it isn't hard to use once you try it.
Wow, that's quite a difference!
Your site looks like a wonderful resource, Chris. I'll be sure to check it out when I'm not at work
I'll have a crack and post my results back.
Murchu
Well-known
A levels adjustment in your editing software, I generally find the quickest and easiest way to do the trick. Pull in the black point, pull in the white point, and then play with the midtones slider until you are happy with the result. You can always play with curves adjustments later, but levels will get you 90% there very quickly.
EDIT: The above refers more to correcting flatness from the scanning process. After seeing your image, I think its that the lighting was just flat.
EDIT: The above refers more to correcting flatness from the scanning process. After seeing your image, I think its that the lighting was just flat.
ColSebastianMoran
( IRL Richard Karash )
Yes, check Chris's wonderful notes! In my experience, scans always need some post processing to add spark.
lrochfort
Well-known
A levels adjustment in your editing software, I generally find the quickest and easiest way to do the trick. Pull in the black point, pull in the white point, and then play with the midtones slider until you are happy with the result. You can always play with curves adjustments later, but levels will get you 90% there very quickly.
EDIT: The above refers more to correcting flatness from the scanning process. After seeing your image, I think its that the lighting was just flat.
Agreed, te lighting was flat, but I got more from the neg in the darkroom than I did from the scanner so ill have another crack
Murchu
Well-known
Agreed, te lighting was flat, but I got more from the neg in the darkroom than I did from the scanner so ill have another crack
Yes, I imagine you'll have a bit of work to do digitally with curves layers and dodging and burning to bring it more in line with what you're seeking.
Depending on your goals, you could always scan the darkroom print you are happy with, but this is obviously dependent on why you are seeking to scan in the first place.
EDIT: on the scanning end, I noticed the shadows were a little blocked. Depending on your aesthetic intentions with the image, it might be helpful to pull out more shadow detail with the scanner, if only to have more to play with in post processing.
Tim Gray
Well-known
I don't see too many problems with the scan. You'll get a bit nicer results as you get more experience. It's the post processing. As mentioned above, curves are the tool I'd use. Levels can help setting the white and black point, but it's a much coarser tool than curves. I often think and 'S' type curve gives me the best results. Where the inflection points are placed depends on the subject and the scan.
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