Tijmendal
Young photog
Hi,
Locally there's a bunch of Velvia 100 35mm film for sale that I'd like to buy. First I'm buying a couple of rolls to test the colors and if there's any shift in them or any other malfunctions.
What would be the best way to go about tets-shooting a couple of rolls before I buy more? Any subjects in particular I should look at or are there any tests which will allow me to see if there's any weird stuff going on? I don't expect it, but I'd like to make sure before I buy 50+ rolls. The thing I'm mainly worried about is a magenta color cast. Thanks.
Regards, Tymen
Locally there's a bunch of Velvia 100 35mm film for sale that I'd like to buy. First I'm buying a couple of rolls to test the colors and if there's any shift in them or any other malfunctions.
What would be the best way to go about tets-shooting a couple of rolls before I buy more? Any subjects in particular I should look at or are there any tests which will allow me to see if there's any weird stuff going on? I don't expect it, but I'd like to make sure before I buy 50+ rolls. The thing I'm mainly worried about is a magenta color cast. Thanks.
Regards, Tymen
sevo
Fokutorendaburando
The common issue with Velvia is colour shift in the shadows and highlights. Even at the best of times it has an exaggerated colour contrast, which turns ugly once it ages and goes non-linear. So you should pick sceneries with plenty of neutral shadow and highlight areas.
As for an absolute test, you'd have to get a test target and software. The (formerly Kodak) colour checker cards available from most colour management vendors would do - forget the (for digital) software that goes with them, a plain visual check is all you really need. Compare the whites, skin tones and dark pastels carefully - these are most likely to bother you if they go off in old Velvia.
IT-8 would be no good for your purpose, as it is a specific film-to-scanner (and not a subject-to-film) calibration system - it would tell you how to scan Velvia reference chromes, but it is almost meaningless once your film has shifted off reference.
As for an absolute test, you'd have to get a test target and software. The (formerly Kodak) colour checker cards available from most colour management vendors would do - forget the (for digital) software that goes with them, a plain visual check is all you really need. Compare the whites, skin tones and dark pastels carefully - these are most likely to bother you if they go off in old Velvia.
IT-8 would be no good for your purpose, as it is a specific film-to-scanner (and not a subject-to-film) calibration system - it would tell you how to scan Velvia reference chromes, but it is almost meaningless once your film has shifted off reference.
k__43
Registered Film User
Even with my calibrated scanner fuji films come out brownish in the shadows - the it8 target is Kodak material maybe that's why - I use auto colors with fuji and get good results..
If you are going the scanner route 5 years of expiration is no problem at all. I shoot E100G from 2006 with okish scan results (blue cast on the actual slide)
If you are going the scanner route 5 years of expiration is no problem at all. I shoot E100G from 2006 with okish scan results (blue cast on the actual slide)
Tijmendal
Young photog
Thanks for the suggestions. I don't expect any problems, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.
Sevo, that's some good information. When you say neutral highlights and shadows, do you mean unsaturated? Would different sheets of paper ranging from white to darker shades and then black work? And then some skin tones?
What kind of color shift should I be looking for in highlights and shadows?
Sevo, that's some good information. When you say neutral highlights and shadows, do you mean unsaturated? Would different sheets of paper ranging from white to darker shades and then black work? And then some skin tones?
What kind of color shift should I be looking for in highlights and shadows?