lxmike
M2 fan.
I have an X Pro1, XE-1 and a X100, considering using my vintage leitz ltm glass on my XE1, what adapter should l be looking for, (quite a few on flea bay), what are the tips and tricks to using ltm glass on my fuji. Thanks for any help in advance. Sorry if this question has been asked before
squirrel$$$bandit
Veteran
I tend to favor the native lenses on this system over adapted ones. But you should get a close-focus helical adapter—those give you something special you can't do on an M camera.
Darthfeeble
But you can call me Steve
I have had good luck just using the Fuji M adapter and LTM to M adapters on the lenses.
tbhv55
Well-known
There are two problems that I have encountered... some of the (non-adjustable) LTM adapters set the 'crown' of the lens away from the top - thus the lens is part-rotated. This means that the focus scale is not properly visible without rotating the camera. Technically not really a problem, as such, but definitely a nuisance, if you like to zone focus. When an adapter has this problem, it's usually accompanied by a failure to infinity-focus.
Some adapters are adjustable by means of grub screws, and this can allow one to overcome both of these problems.
Aside from the above problems (which are problems with the adapters, rather than the cameras), I've found that LTM lenses work very nicely on my x-E1.
Some adapters are adjustable by means of grub screws, and this can allow one to overcome both of these problems.
Aside from the above problems (which are problems with the adapters, rather than the cameras), I've found that LTM lenses work very nicely on my x-E1.
lxmike
M2 fan.
like yourself l am a massive fan of the fuji lens line up but l also hanker after using my elmar 3.5cm and summar 5cm both ltm
lxmike
M2 fan.
many thanks for the advice
lxmike
M2 fan.
guardado1213
Established
I have a Fuji-xt1 and I use the Kipon adapter with the helicoid. It's not the cheapest adapter but the quality is pretty solid. So far I have had no issues using any of my Leica lenses or CV lenses with it. Even my Elmar 5cm 3.5 will focus properly and with the helicoid, I can focus far closer than I ever could with my Elmar on my M9
tbhv55
Well-known
might have to hunt out an adapter on ebay
Yes, indeed. Provided that you can ascertain that they have the adjustment capability, you should be Ok.
Thinking again, another problem that I encountered (albeit in earlier years with cheaper LTM to m43 adapters), is that some have a little 'slop' in the bayonet fitting. It didn't cause any actual difficulties, but the 'user-experience'
rolleyes was slightly the worse for it. Range-rover
Veteran
If your going to get a adapter get a good one.
lxmike
M2 fan.
thanks chaps the replies in this thread have been very thought provoking and yesterday a M39 to XF adapter arrived via flea bay and l must say l am very pleased and surprised by its build quality......to its a day off to day and time to play I think
tbhv55
Well-known
Great stuff... did the adapter "line-up" the lens properly? Or did you buy an adjustable adapter?
Hope it all works out well.
lxmike
M2 fan.
Great stuff... did the adapter "line-up" the lens properly? Or did you buy an adjustable adapter?
Hope it all works out well.
it lines up well and now l am playing around with focus peaking etc
thanks fr all the help
willie_901
Veteran
It took me a bit of practice and adjustment to become comfortable with focus peaking. FP is highly dependent on contrast and contrast of objects will vary in most scenes. FP is a DOF indicator so the it took some experience to use it when the subjects were at a distance or the lens is stopped down. FP will visually reveal curved planes of focus which can make critical focusing tricky. These characteristics can make using FP confusing at first.
Still FP eventually became a useful tool and I use it with Fujifilm XF lenses as well to confirm focus. If my eyes weren't so old, FP might be redundant for this use.
Still FP eventually became a useful tool and I use it with Fujifilm XF lenses as well to confirm focus. If my eyes weren't so old, FP might be redundant for this use.
lxmike
M2 fan.
FrankS
Registered User
Looks good to me, Mike. Just a few tweaks.
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
This may be OT, but I have found the Fuji RAW files at the default settings to be of relatively low contrast and, to a lesser extent, saturation. That's just a casual observation, I could be wrong. I think Frank's tweaks may bear that out, though I don't know any settings on the original file.
willie_901
Veteran
If you want contrast: shoot raw render accordingly. Though, I suppose it helps to avoid overexposure. And it really helps if the scene has contrast in the first place.
The information required to make the most of a given lens' inherent contrast is there. All you have to do is accept that raw files are inherently flat so an appropriate tone curve is almost always required to render with adequate contrast.
The same holds for JPEGs but to a significantly lower extent. The JPEG compression might destroy some of the information required to render the desired contrast level.
The information required to make the most of a given lens' inherent contrast is there. All you have to do is accept that raw files are inherently flat so an appropriate tone curve is almost always required to render with adequate contrast.
The same holds for JPEGs but to a significantly lower extent. The JPEG compression might destroy some of the information required to render the desired contrast level.
lxmike
M2 fan.
Looks good to me, Mike. Just a few tweaks.
thanks frank, may l ask what tweaks you undertook
FrankS
Registered User
basically added contrast, played with highlight and shadow sliders, and the program i use called SnapSeed that has a control called ambiance which is useful. I think ambiance is a form of HDR but you can apply just a little.